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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 09:36 PM
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pete302
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From: Rice Lake, WI
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I have a 85 crown vic with a 302 AOD. (this should have gone in the right year section but I didn't see that until after I typed it posted it. dont know how to move it. -pete) The engine is throtle body injected. My problem is that I can go out and start the car and it will start up every time, But when I drive it so that it warms up and then shut it off, and try to start is it again it will turn over a little and then act like the battry is dead, turns over slower and slower then stops dimming the lights each time it turns over. Then if I leave is sit for about an hour it will start right back up with no problem.
There are a few other things wrong with it also ( I picked it up for only a few hundred bucks.) the exhaust fell off right behind both cattys and the egr pipes that come off them are rusted through and not conected. The car also leaks alittle oil and and mostly water. I have had to replace a few hoses on it already. And after is warms up there is a little smoke that comes up throuhg the pvc into the air cleaner that can be seen if air filter cap is off. I am mainly concerned about why it won't start back up when hot. The check engine light comes on after it warms up and is at idle only as soon as the rpms go up a little it goes off. other wise it runs realy smooth. I know this is a truck page but I was hoping that I could get this car going sence I am I am still working on my truck.
 

Last edited by pete302; Dec 23, 2003 at 09:47 PM.
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 10:26 PM
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Slade901
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From: Memphis, TN USA
The problem is more likely the starter solenoid failing. Make sure though that the wiring connectors on the battery, wirings in the solenoid and starter itself are tight.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 10:44 PM
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matt_302
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From: Michigan
Will the truck start up in damp weather very easily? Check all battery connections with a voltmeter. Check the ground wire from the starter to the battery Ford sometimes routed the wiring to the starter on the engine block, when the engine warms up the heat causes the wires to expand causing an open effect in the starting circut. Definetly like mentioned above check the starter relay with a ohmmeter if possible before the cold startup, let the warm up procedure occur then when still warm check the ohms on the starter relay.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2003 | 12:25 AM
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paulfix
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Check your ignition timing, sounds like it is too advanced
 
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Old Dec 25, 2003 | 02:11 AM
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fordeverpower
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From: iowa
i would replace the cable wires and all other wires associated with the starting systems.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2003 | 07:21 PM
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pete302
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From: Rice Lake, WI
Thanks ill check the wires and timing tomarrow. I already replaced the battry cables because the person that had it b4 me just cut the ends off and butt jointed+eletrcial taped side post tremanal conecters on it for hooking it up to the battry. What would it be doing to the car if the egr tubes are not conected to the catts?
they rusted off so they are about 6" away. Would that cause the engine light to come on at idle after it is warmed up or is it maybe something like low oil pressure? I have only put about 700 miles on it and it has been lighting up the check engine light only at or around idle and after it is warmed up. The car runs fine and idles great but it likes to back fire in the exaust alot. not loud but a constant popping only when you let off the gas. I think it just needs a new air filter. But let me know about the egr thing.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2003 | 11:57 PM
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F350SuperCab4x4
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From: Phx, AZ
i had the same problem with the starter on my truck. i replaced it with a high torque one and still had the same problem. turns out the cable going to the starter was too close to the exhaust manifold and over heated it. i rerouted it and it starts up fine now, even when it's 115* out and the motor temp is 230*
 
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