What's the scoop on using an NP435 coupled to an 208 Transfer case in an early Bronco? I've only looked at a picture, but the 208 looks mighty big. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

I have the same tranny, the T&C (Toploader or Ten Bolt) 4 sp. w/ O/D. It came out of a 86 Bronco. I bought a B/W 1345 x-case to bolt up and it's huge. I looked at an NP208, they're supposed to be smaller, but I got scared, it looked big also. I have read that the NP205 will bolt up easily, and it is definately closer in size to the D-20. I thought about the Advance Adapter, but thats over $300, plus labor.
The good news about the 205 is that they're bulletproof, the bad news is the 2:1 low range, but with a 351 in a trail rig it's ok. I was looking for the easiest economical way to swap in a 351 for my little 6 cyl and get some O/D relief. Sadly easy & economical are not related!
Send me the part # off the side of the tranny & I can probably tell you what it is. Email me with the p/n & I can keep you in the loop of my conversion.

Chase

 

Chase, I will attempt to make in to the junk yard tomorrow. Work and all the other adult things that come up in life have got me kind of bogged down. I took the front axel out of the bronco last thursday to change the gears to 4.09 and a lockright. So far I have only finished cleaning, krylon and the pinion. Haven't got the ring gear in yet.
I will try and get back to you by this weekend.

Thanks, Duane

 

chase, I actually made it to the junk yard. Here is what I got.

rf-e5tr-7006-aa
c-2605524
These could be wrong numbers because I was laying on my back reading upside down, Insert 5's for S and S's for 5 as needed

trans code on vin# p

Duane

 

rf I think, tells you its a newer toploader case, probably aluminum.
e5 means 1985 production, c=60's d=70's etc.
tr means truck application.

I had to do that from memory, my hard-drive on my pc crashed, I had bookmarked the sites where I got this info before buying my tranny. My #'s are the same, maybe '86. The tranny was in full size trucks & vans, it should hold up & they're relatively cheap to rebuild. I forget the exact significance of rf, I know RUG denotes the early 60's toploader found in cars, I think the rf tells you its top-shifted or overdrive, like I said I forget exactly.

I'll let you know if it stands up to my 351 HO beast!!

About your saggy doors, have you looked into rebuild kits for the hinges? Most of the bronco houses sell the kits, its a common problem.
I'll try to track down the exact meaning of rf.

Chase

 

chase,
The door problem is from rust at the front door post. There is enough to support the drivers door but they have gotten weaker since I bought the truck in 2002. jThe passenger side hase drooped about an inch since then. So basically what is going on is that from the front door post forward is shot. The previous owners modifications and tires that were to big caused alot of s/m damage. He used it as a beater truck on his property and would leave it in middle of his pond when they were drunk and stuck.
I was just looking at a breakdown of transmission codes from a sight I saw somewhere on the net. The vin code that the bronco has for the tranny is P. Which looks to be a t-19. I now feel that I have wasted much time trying to figure out if this tranny would work and how it would install into the bronco. All hope has failed on what I had thought was a 4 speed overdrive. Oh well, I guess I will have to tell the wife I will have to spend another Saturday at the junk yard looking. DARN the luck!!

Duane

 

The rf is a truck toploader with overdrive, I checked my #'s and mine is the same except from 1984. The T-19 is a heavy duty tranny with a granny gear, probably better for your "15 mile radius" of crawling & muddin'. I'm lost though, what's in the truck now and why were you asking about the toploader?
About the saggy doors, you can get new posts or yank the doors & drop in the inserts & fabric doors. Great for summer but a little coolldd for now.
Chase

 

jaroh,
Another good question is what size tires are you running (or plan on running) and what is your R/P ratio? I ran a NP435 w/ 4.11 gears and 33" tires for years and neverhad a problem. I'd put about over 100K on that NP435!

Ken

 

I have a 4 speed OD aluminum case top loader that you are talking about. It came out ot a 87 F150 2WD, 300 six. The shifter comes out of the top cover. The entire case is aluminum. it is about 1/2 inch longer that the original three speed. Same bolt patern on the front and back as the original three speed so the original bronco T case adapter is used. The trany I am using has a bigger out put bearing so the adapter must be machined, not very expensive. You will need an adapter from Duffs they have the best price. Close enough in length I did no driveline work and have not had a problem. I have about 8000 miles on the combo. My original plans were to have the over drive trany and then install 3.25:1 T case low range gears. best of both worlds. The trany only has a 3.25 first gear. I am running 4.10 axel gears and like the combo except for my second to third gear jump. 2nd gear is 1.89 I believe, and jump to 3rd (1:1) is very wide. NP 435 has a 1.66 third making for a closer shift to 1.1. I am running a 96 GT 40 351 crate engine I installed new so power is not a problem. My buildup took over three years from tear down to body back on frame and is one of the most rewarding accomplishments of my life. If you have any other questions I can probably answer them.

68 Bronco 4:10s True Tracks, PS, PB, 351, Had no rust, Ron Francis wireing harness. Much more.

 

hello again, well here is what I got for a bronco. I put in a 84 302 ho. rebuilt the rear end and put 4.11's with a quick lock. The front end is being rebuilt right now and will have 4.09 with another quick lock installed. I also have 33x12.50 procomp all terrains. Here in Abilene TX there is really nothing for rock crawling or running back roads. To many gates and barbed wire.
What I am trying to build is a bronco that I can use for hunting, fishing and running back roads when I retire back up north ie Montana,Idaho, Washington. I am not trying to build a rock crawler or mud beast, just a all around decent 4x4. Where I would like to do this at you also need to get out on the pavement and drive at todays highway speeds, ie above 60. I really don't enjoy driving down the road above 2500 rpm's. It's hard to hear the radio!!!!! I think I was exagerating on the not trusting the ol bronco past 25 miles. It's just not a very enjoyable ride right now. The only part of the drive train I have not gone trough is the transmission and from what I stated before, I don't know the shade tree mechanic that rebuilt this trany. I guess that is why I get a little nervous about getting to far from the house.

As for the tranny in the 82 bronco. The vin code says p, but the part number says top loader. I guess that means the previous owner changed transmissions.

So what is the easiest/cheapest way to go with this transmission? ie which transfercase. And what parts do I need? Remember I have a c-4 now
Something else I was looking at yesterday on the 82 bronco is that it is hooked to a 300 I-6 with a hydraulic clutch. I know I can't use the bell housing from the 300. But I would like to use the hydraulic clutch. Any Ideas? I will stop rambling now. I should not have got on here at 2 am.

Thanks, Duane

 

duane,

I'm going with the toploader overdrive with a np 205 x-case.
that is what turned out to be the cheapest for me to accomplish the same goals as you, (i.e. use the highway & go offroad). When you look around for toploader info, the conversion to d-20 is cheaper, the rebuild kits are everywhere, they came bolted to newer x-case, that are available cheaper than most converion kits. There's a guy on classic broncos with one behind a 408 stroker with no probs. The np 205 is absolutely bulletproof but doesn't have very low gearing, which is perfect if your on a trial & don't need to crawl!

I have the output shaft & adapter for an AOD tranny & could have gone that way if an AOD came around at a good price. I have 3 different x-cases & 3 different trannies, all so that I could take the easiest OR lease expensive route (both would be nice!) The 300 bell should bolt up, it better, that's what I pulled from a junk yard for my application. The big sixes have the same bolt pattern as the SBF's and I had to pull a rf-e5tr-7006-aa to get the bell. I probably should have bought the other tranny, but it was 2WD.
I hope to use my clutch, but am aware that I can go hydraulic for about $120 if I have to.
I hope to have mine installed next week, I'll let you know if it all works.

Chase

 

Jaroh
My experience is if you do what is the easiest and cheapest right now you will be doing it again. Hell, even if you spend a lot of effort and money right now you will probably be doing it again. Thats just the way it goes if you own a EB for many years with no intentions of selling it. I think you will hate a manual trans that has a high first gear(3.25) and reverse(2.somthing) coupled to a 2:1 low range T case. NO I take that back I know you will. Some guys claim that they drive 90% on the highway, 10% off road. But there's no fun in a bronco that won't perform that 10% of the time. I think that a HIGH geared 4X4 is worse that a LOW geared street machine. At least the LOW geared street machine Hauls Butt. Do the math on ratios and RPM s of different tranys in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th, with your axel ratio and tire size. Then work toward your dream. If you drive your bronco a lot and don't want down time then save and scrounge parts until you get everything you need then make it a week end project. with all of the combonations availble there is no reason not to go down the highway at 1800 rpms an crawl down the trail at 40:1+

 

Actually a close ratio car 4 speed in a Bronco is a blast. I ran one with 35's and 4.10's for years both on the street and off road. It worked just fine for most wheeling, 'cept for maybe super slow. Just used the clutch a little more for that stuff.

I have a 435 in mine right now. I am working towards 320- 1 low range reduction. It cruises about 2800 rpm at 60, which works for me. To go with a ZF or 4500 for OD, I'd be losing at least 50-1 reduction. It's not worth it for my situation. I have swapped a couple of 4500s (and have a ZF in my 1 ton), and I like how they drive. If anything, I may run GM gears in a Dodge 4500 case. Or maybe a 700R4 swap...

BTW, just for information. The aluminum case pickup transmission is not the same as a top loader. They look pretty similar, but will not interchange. And as far as I know, the only top loaders that will work in a EB are side shifted versions (with the stock Dana 20.)

Jason

 

Chase, I was wondering if you got the tranny installed yet. How well does it work etc....

Duane

 

Duane

I ran into a couple of snags. I had trouble finding a shop willing to weld in the new motor mount pedastals because of the liability. When I found someone to do the welding, the shop doing my motor got swamped. I'll post ya as soon as I get it going.

Chase