Tapping Valves
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
Tapping Valves
I have a tappy tap tap in what I believe is the driver's side exhaust valve as I can hear ti through that pipe and not on the passenger pipe. I believe it was binding one day because it sounded like metal rubbing on metal, then it went away, never to be heard again, it was really loud thoudgh, I though I had trown a rod. My question is this: how hard are these to replace, and should I rebuild both heads while I have the one off? The motor has 160k on it and it still runs strong, no smoke at all. I haven't been able to find a head rebuild kit so far.....hmm, what if I just took it apart and cleaned all the components thouroughly?
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 5
From: Delaware
Take the valve cover off that side and take a look at the pushrods, rockers and springs. Disconnect the coil wire and crank it over several times. Look for a valve that isn't going up and down the same as the others.
You may be lucky and be able to fix it without taking the head off.
If it is a valve you have to remove the head and send it to a shop for a valve job. You could do just one, but you will be better off sending both, or else you may be doing the other side next week.
It could also be a bad lifter. You can replace one lifter, but unless you want to do it again next week, you should replace all 16.
You may be lucky and be able to fix it without taking the head off.
If it is a valve you have to remove the head and send it to a shop for a valve job. You could do just one, but you will be better off sending both, or else you may be doing the other side next week.
It could also be a bad lifter. You can replace one lifter, but unless you want to do it again next week, you should replace all 16.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
what he said, valve cover off, crank it, and make sure all the valves are opening/closing fully.
If it's a broken rocker arm, you'll see it mighty quick...they are easy to change, you can even get a used one from a junk yard, and they just torque down on the pedestal, and are non-adjustable. Easy job, only a few valve cover bolts to take off. If the cover gasket is in good shape, you can coat it with permatex and re-use it. I'm assuming you're on a budget and time limited, and don't want to wade knee-deep in this repair...
I used to bring spare rocker studs, pushrods, and rocker arms with me when I drag raced 1/4 mile. Never broke one there, but broke many street racing, overrevved and pumped up the lifters, caboom. Loud knocking, easy to fix though. Had to get another fella out of hot water at the track with a broken rocker stud once though....The pushrod may come out mangled like a pretzel too occasionally...
It happens, sometimes the rocker nut or bolt backs off...
If it's a broken rocker arm, you'll see it mighty quick...they are easy to change, you can even get a used one from a junk yard, and they just torque down on the pedestal, and are non-adjustable. Easy job, only a few valve cover bolts to take off. If the cover gasket is in good shape, you can coat it with permatex and re-use it. I'm assuming you're on a budget and time limited, and don't want to wade knee-deep in this repair...
I used to bring spare rocker studs, pushrods, and rocker arms with me when I drag raced 1/4 mile. Never broke one there, but broke many street racing, overrevved and pumped up the lifters, caboom. Loud knocking, easy to fix though. Had to get another fella out of hot water at the track with a broken rocker stud once though....The pushrod may come out mangled like a pretzel too occasionally...
It happens, sometimes the rocker nut or bolt backs off...
Last edited by cantedvalveFord; Dec 18, 2003 at 06:48 PM.
