I have a 68 f100 straight six 2wd 3 speed manual. The clutch just went out on me. Is is hard to replace? what is the best way pull the tranny or pull the engine. Can someone give me a step by step for both? I'd really appreciate it. Thanks

 

By the way I have a 3 speed manual.

 

With a 3 speed it is a cinch to pull the tranny. The 3 speed is so light that you don't really even need a tranny jack. Just disconnect the drive shaft, unbolt the tranny from the bell housing, and lift it off the cross member. The four speed weighs at least three times what the 3 speed does but is still realatively easy to deal with. Once the tranny is off you unbolt the bell housing and there is the clutch/pressure plate. Mark the pressure plate so you can get it back on in the same position, unbolt it by going around and around in several steps to prevent warpage and you are at the friction plate. Reverse the steps and you are done.

 

I would get the flywheel resurfaced while you have it out. I would use a transmission jack myself. It makes it a lot easier to guide it back in. I use a couple of bolts with no heads in the bellhousing to get it aligned going back in.

 

I replaced the clutch on my 3 speed and I would not call the 3-speed light. It was a cast iron case and heavier than I am use too. We didn't use a trans jack, but did my go to my friend's dad's place and use his lift. Lifted it about 30-36". We removed the nuts/bolts from the trans crossmember and I slid the c-member back as my buddy caught it (his idea, not mine). Afterwards he said he thought he broke his forearm. Turns out it was just a really nice bruise.

We took out the front half of the drive shaft, removed starter, disconnected shifter linkage, removed crossmember nuts/bolts, slide c-member back, dropped trans, removed bellhousing, removed clutch (it was a little heavy too, of course I don't do this for a living so maybe I don't know what heavy really is).

Didn't turn flywheel, probably should have, but all my buddies, relatives, etc said it isn't necessary on something like this. Installed alignment tool, slid clutch on, torqued it down, cleaned up bellhousing and outside of trans, reinstalled all in opposite order of above.

I would say it wasn’t hard, just physical, dirty, and takes a few hours and a buddy to help out. Lot of time on your knees and butt. If you have a nice place to do this (warm dry day or a garage), a few tools (1/4” and 3/8” ratchet, SAE socket set, needle nose pliers, torque wrench, rags, trouble light, what else am I forgetting?) and about half a day. I’d imagine just about anybody could do it.

I probably left out a few things, sorry. Normally I let someone else answer these types of questions but maybe this will help or at least give you an idea of what's involved. I was sore the next day, but it was nice knowing I could do it instead of having to take it to a garage.

Tim

 

I would change the pilot bushing and throw out bearing as well. There are several ways to pull the pilot.

Use a puller. I've tried using the "hook" type of pullers that you strike with a hammer. Not recommended because I never had enough room to swing the hammer.

I've used the hydraulic method. Fill the hole with grease. Then find a dowel the fits the hole real snug and hit it in with a hammer. Wear eye protection and keep your mouth shut.

I also have a "mechanical" puller that you use a couple of wrenches on.

 

One more helpful hint. When removing or tightening the bolts of the pressure plate and flywheel, you can get a tool that will hold the flywheel ring gear. Otherwise the flywheel will tend to rotate. The tool looks like a giant screwdriver with a arm attached to it.

 

You will need to support the weight of the engine to get the cross member out. A couple 2x4s on the oil pan and a jack will work. I might also add that even with the clutch aligning tool installed the disc will sag a little. Try to hold the pilot toll up a little as you tighten the pressure plate bolts a little at a time and diametrically( or moving from side to side as you tighten.) Also keep checking the pilot as you tighten to see if it will slide freely. This will insure that the tranny input will be able to slide in easily with no binding. I also like to leave the tranny in gear so I can use the out put shaft to rotatate the input which will be necessary for the splines to index into the cluch disc. Whatever you do, do not be tempted to pull it together with the bolts. It should slide all the way home freely.

 

This would be a good time to check the input shaft bearings and seals on the tranny. A leaking input shaft seal will ruin a new clutch quickly.