I have an 86 302 EFI with speed density and im looking to get about 300 NA HP and then another 125 with nitrous. Im on a tight budget and im looking to keep the sd due to lack of funds. What would be the best bolt ons to get that 300 HP and be set for that shot of nitrous? Im open to any suggestions.

 

Do a search of things like "performance" in the 221,289,302,351W V8 section. There is a lot of good advise there. Check out what some of the big names like Holley, Crane and CompCams say. Come up with a more detailed plan that you think will meet your goals (with specific part numbers) and then ask for opinions before you spend your money. I wish I had done that before I got the cam I did the first time.

 

speed denicity? well good luck cranking 5 hp over stock you can burn pure nitrus in it and t will have the same power as 87 octane ecause, the speed dencity only allows it to burn the right amount of fuel for the speed. speed dencity sucs butt

 

What do you consider a tight budget?

 

About $2000 total but in increments (as i get my paychecks) I Know i will have to have a custom chip burned at the end of the process for the nitrous and the bolt ons. I was wondering what would be the cheapest way to get that horsepower.

 

You won't get too far with the stock SD setup, I know, I'm going through this problem now with my truck.
If you are on a tight budget, you can always go for the 250HP shot of nitrous if you don't need the engine to last too long. No speed density mods required.

 

What kinda condition is the motor in? compression psi, oil psi.
Is your budget including the cost of the nitrous kit? I will deduct $600 that is about in the middle of most nitrous kits, price wise. That would give you a kit with 80-200hp shot options.

Chip $300 roughly

How about a comp extreme energy camshaft kit $170 non roller

spring kit $115

Piston kit $459

arp main bolts and rod bolts $18.98 , $41.95

Either have stock heads ported and new valves added or find a pair of GT-40 or 69-75 351w heads any option there would be roughly $400. You would need stepped studs or bushings to let the larger head bolt holes of the 351w heads to work on the smaller head bolt 302.

Would be a good time to upgrade the converter $250 depending on what you have.

Shift kit $80 roughly depending on which you use

Machine work to prep the block and assembly, on top of that, and any other labor you don't plan on doing yourself. YOu may get a better deal going through a competant engine builder/machinist on the forged pistons.

So I came up with $2434.93 that includes the nitrous kit, so figure, $1834.93 without the nitrous. Not to mention you have to add labor and machining $$$ to either figure.

Or you could get the best heads you can find for your money, burn a chip, install a cam and hope it all holds together.

Example afr's run roughly $1300 brand new(these are vey good heads, they will take you a lot farther than 300hp). All dreaming aside, your stock heads should get you to 300hp.

chip $300

cam $180 estimate including lifters non roller

Thats $1780 and you still have the original internals. Many ways to go about it. Find a performance engine builder or machinist in your area that comes recommended (very important). See what he/she quotes you on prices of different aspect of machining, then go from there. Good luck, sorry if I just made a huge post and it really doesn't answer your question. There is no right way, good luck with your engine, there are people making 450-500hp with speed density so don't feel you have to abandon ship and get mass air. Even with mass air it only compensates for a radical cam at idle you still have to program it for proper operation, just like speed density does with a chip, except you would need a $300-400 programer for the mass air. Either way a dyno run would be the best way to optimize the engine performance. later

 

Thanks that helps a lot. About the cam, would i be able to run a fairly agressive cam while i piece together all the needed parts for this or will it take away all stock driving habits? I would wait until the very end to get the burned chip for all of the upgrades but id like to drive a few days a week to and from school. Also is it worth investing in some lowering springs to improve my insant center of gravity for better launches? THanks again.

 

By the way im pulling the motor from a Grand Marquis which is currently serving as my daily driver. i haven't gotten class time yet to check compression, etc but i do have some good shop equipment to do so from my school. Marquis is running very solid right now.

 

IF you just want a lower truck, at $65 for a 2" drop spring, thats not gonna blow the budget, and it should improve handling. If your thinking in terms of a more drag strip oriented spring then I would wait, and run it a few times after you have the motor/tranny built and see what it needs or where its lacking. If you keep the speed density you will need a lobe seperation of 114, no matter which cam you end up with. There are many options out there, give comp cams and crane cams a call and talk with them about what you have and what you plan on doing with it. Is this gonna be a drag only truck? I would hate to say this, but you could go carbed and things would be a lot easier the first time out, as far as, tuning etc, seems mods respond better unless the efi can be tuned with accuracy. Just a thought, later

 

Nah, I want to keep it on the street but still be potent at the strip. Would a nitrous cam be a good idea, if i remember right those cams feature large amounts of seperation and smaller amounts of duration. I'm not sure if that right, please enlighten if im wrong. ALso id like to keep the EFI and above you mentioned using 351w heads, will those fit with the EFI manifold? Furthermore, i have heard very good things about the pistons rods crank etc. I was thinkin about just installing new rod bolts and bearings and going from there. THe nitrous would be no more then 175 shot at tops and i wouldn't be racing that often. (2 a month) THanks Again

 

I also assume with about 475HP this engine will tear through the stock rear end pretty quick. Any cheap ways to reinforce the 8.8 i got off the marquis? Should i invest in a ring and pinion off ebay? i have an AOD so i assume i could run a little lower ration (3.73 4.10) and still be ok on the highway. ALso, will the stock fuel system support 475HP, or at least the fuel pump and lines ETC? i was lookin on ebay and i could pick up some 24LB injectors pretty cheap but those will have to be added to the chip as well. Are the injectors worth the investment? How about fuel pump and lines will those be ok stock? ANy thoughts? thanks agian

 

I would discuss the camshaft with the manufacturer, explain that you only wish to run the engine occassionally with nitrous oxide. The engine should respond pretty well any way you go. You will need to look into a higher stall converter that is nitrous oxide/ boost friendly. What gears are in the marquis rear axle. IF its 3.55 good, if not, then I would upgrade to 3.55/3.73/4.10. Put a quality posi unit in it whether it has one or not, would be what I would suggest, as well as installing a heavy duty differential cover. It should hold up fairly well at that point, the 8.8 is a fairly stout piece in stock form. Don't forget you will need to have that tranny rebuilt, after you break it that is, haha. The 351w heads some might work then again some might need to be drilled for smog. You might consider finding a pair of gt-40p heads or gt-40. Look on an explorer/mountaineer 96 1/2 and down had gt-40's on the 5.0's, 96 1/2 up they used the gt-40p design. Either one of those can get you to 375+/- hp, naturally aspirated, in stock form. So obviously some port work and larger valves would only help things out. Some of these heads require smog to be drilled as well, so that is something to keep in mind. YOu already probably know that if you use the "p" design you need "p" specific headers. YOu might consider a fuel pump upgrade. You didn't say, are you satisfied going efi or would a carbed setup be an option?

 

I'd like to keep the EFI.

 

Well that sucks, no, just kidding. With the camshaft you could go with a more aggressive grind or one that has less than 114 lobe seperation, if you have the chip flashed or replaced with one that would understand the addition of a more aggressive cam. So it would be a good idea to get the cam and chip last and at the same time, because the cam you choose is dependant on knowing what rear gearing, tranny type, stall speed, and any and all engine modifications. The chip is dependant on knowing all the previously mentioned additions as well as the camshaft. So gather up all your mods then get the cam then chip, that would be my suggestion.