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Bad Master Cylinder?

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Old Dec 29, 2003 | 10:01 AM
  #16  
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fordeverpower,

I'm sorry to say we will never know how the p-valve worked. I parked the truck on the hwy with a for sale sign in it and it sold in 3 hours....Now I go find another!
 
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Old Dec 29, 2003 | 10:06 AM
  #17  
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1976BeaterF150
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I too had this problem for awhile, so I threw in a MC from a 77 T-Bird, and it works great, bolted right up, and doesnt leak at all, hope this helps.

Don
 
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Old Dec 29, 2003 | 05:59 PM
  #18  
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Yup, bad master cylinders guys, maybe an internal seal in backwards or something...
 
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Old Dec 30, 2003 | 10:20 AM
  #19  
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From: iowa
Originally posted by Torque1st
Yup, bad master cylinders guys, maybe an internal seal in backwards or something...

I don't know! When i bought my truck the booster and master were new and my truck stopped like a charm then it started leaky and i bought one and it too leaks. Unless i have problems with 2 straight master cylinders it seems kinda wierd.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2003 | 05:43 PM
  #20  
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Like I said b4: "The only crossover points are in the internal seals in the master cylinder or in the proportioning valve."

Those rebuild company's use cheap labor and mess things up all the time.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2003 | 10:46 PM
  #21  
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I have gone through as many as 4 different master cylinders before I got a good one.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2003 | 11:45 PM
  #22  
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From: iowa
thanks guys!
 
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 12:05 AM
  #23  
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If you want to see how bad they do, -take one apart. Have a machinist measure the bore, get the proper size rebuild kit seals, and put it back together right.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 01:02 AM
  #24  
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From: iowa
the last one i bought was a cheap cardone unit. I will buy another master cylinder and then a proportoning valve if needed. I believe they rebuilt craply but 2 bad ones in a row i just wasn't sure.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 02:34 AM
  #25  
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I won't buy that brand after I had problems with them. Unfortunately NAPA, Oreilly, Advance, and Carquest have Cardone parts. I had to go to Auto Zone to get the Atsco units. When I got that string of bad cardone parts I just asked for my money back plus the core charge and got it so I could buy the Atsco outright.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2004 | 10:46 PM
  #26  
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From: iowa
well i ended up getting another cardone unit. Me and my buddy bled the brakes and when all was done the brakes were dragging. I hope it works out but i will know for sure after a couple of days of driving. If i have problems i'm getting a proportion valve.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2004 | 11:21 PM
  #27  
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Let us know how it goes. Lots of times people don't come back and let everyone know what worked.

I assume you mean that the rear brakes are dragging. You can adjust the rear brakes with a screwdriver or brake tool (easier). You adjust the rear brakes until you can just hear them drag when you spin the wheel by hand. Make sure all of your brake hardware is in good shape. The star wheel should not be worn or missing teeth. The adjuster pawl must have a sharp edge.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2004 | 11:39 PM
  #28  
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Originally posted by Torque1st
You adjust the rear brakes until you can just hear them drag when you spin the wheel by hand. Make sure all of your brake hardware is in good shape. The star wheel should not be worn or missing teeth. The adjuster pawl must have a sharp edge.

Thanks Torque1st for the info on adjusting the rear brakes. I was always told that the rear were self adjusting. As I was told...drive in reverse for 10-15 feet at a "good" pace and slam the brakes. Do that a few times...and rear were adjusted. Didn't seem right to me...but how about it???

 
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Old Jan 1, 2004 | 11:55 PM
  #29  
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You can adjust them that way but you can also ruin the wheel cylinder seals that way. Depending on how far out they were it may take many tries. I usually check my adjustment that way when I am finished. It is the pits when you fly backwards and the pedal goes to the floor...
 
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