I just put a 351W into my '73 Bronco Sport. I also did a serpentine belt conversion on it as well.

The 351W have and Edelbrock Performer intake with a 650cfm Carb. I now only have about an inch and a half of clearance between the carb and the hood.

In other words, I have no room for my air filter.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Is there anyway to mount the air filter remotely?

Can someone give me a link to a site that has something like this for sale?

Thanks,
Rich

 

You could use a bubble scoop that is 4" high like this one.

http://www.jamesduff.com/eb/urethane.html

 

i used the original side drop air cleaner asy on mine. the bracket on the side that help support it no longer fit. the bottom of the air cleaner was only about 1/4" from the valve cover so i put some 2 sided foam tape there so it rested on the valve cover for support instead. i have the same combo as you and the stock hood shuts fine. could not bring myself to cut a hole in my hood so i was very happy.

 

Guess the shaker hood scoop idea is out then

 

either get a body lift, a new fiberglass hood with cowl induction or some way of raising the hood, or chop up your original hood and put a hood soop in.

 

My suggestion is to get rid of the Edelbrock and get the Holley truck avenger. Jet down the power valve to a 4.5 and the pilot jet to a 64 for starters. you will need a hood scoop of some kind. The windsor needs to breath so nothing short of a K&N. The 351 will feel like it has 100 more horse with the Holley, and not flood out parked with two tires up on the curb. What to do about hood clearance is the least of your worries, there are several companies that sell fiberglass hoods with moulded in scoops that will clear an 4" filter that will crack out nicely and warp and wave to every one you drive by. been here done it!

 

What did your 351w come out of. I have a 74 bronco and I want a 351 but not sure where to get it.

 

JCastellaw, I originaly had 351 out of a 69 mustang. When I went to rebuild it it was allready bored 60 over. So I saved up and bought a 97 (I think) GT 40 351W. I'm not sure because it was a few years ago. I would have to dig up the reciept. The only diference between the 97 and the 69 was block casting for the clutch bellcrank mounting bracket. the 97 did not have it so I had to fab it and use the bellhousing bolt to atatch it. If you are using an auto tranny than this should not be a concerne. Your search for an engine should be based on the performance for that year. I would highly recomend a 351W, Ford rates my engine at 345 HP and 385# FT TRQ. with 4.10 gears and a True Track with 33s, It will smoke both back tires, on dry pavment, in a strait line, not using the clutch, from 10 miles an hour, by just standing on the gass. Duffs has a lot of info on the 351 W conversion. Like most things it depends how much have to spend. $$$ buy horsepower. But as far as a shoe inn, other than the front acc. drive, and and fuel injection. We all suck.

 

i bought a long block from ford for a 94-96 f150 351 lighting. it has a abundance of power and very driveable.

i have a holley 670cfm truck avenger carb on mine. it runs great except for above 4000rpm it noses over??? anybody else running one of these with luck? i have a 650 double pumper also, if it put it on it is clear and strong right up to 5000rpm (red line). i like the driveability much better with the avenger but this is driving me crazy.

 

I read what it said on james duff and wondered if the 2v or 4v would be better in my automatic bronco. I already have it lifted 3 inches with P Buckshots. I have a hard top and a soft top. Just need a motor

 

if it were me and i was going ther the effort of putting a 351w in it would be a 4v. that is why i switched out the 302 for a 351w was for more power.

 

Spart, I am running the 670 truckavenger. They come jetted very rich. Your secondarys are probably starting to open at 4000 rpm and causing a way rich condition caused by primary jets beeing too Big.
Watch your mirrors for black smoke pooring from the tailpipe.
If you don't think it is rich but rather lean than check to see if your secondarys are opening by wraping a small zip tie around the shaft going into secondary vacume housing. Don't get it too tight just enough it won't slide down on it's own. Then slide it all the way up to where it is against the bottom of the housing.
Now go drive the bronco and hold it to the floor up to 4200 rpm and then slow down and pull over and see if the secondarys opened then the shaft moved up into the housing sliding the zip tie down the shaft.You CAN NOT do this by sitting in the driveway and gunning the throttle. If the zip tie moved then its probably not a lean condition. too much fuel will make an engine fall on it's face.
This is how I jetted my carb.
1) you will need a vacume gauge you can read while going down the road. connect it to full manifold vacume. Run the hose through the firewall and hang or tape gauge where you can read it.
2) Disconnect the lever from the secondaries to the diaphram housing, then zip tie the secondary butterfly CLOSED.
3) This will alow you to jet your primaries without interferience from the secondaries. Warm the bronco up and go drive it around under the same conditions that were causing you problems before. If it is cold out the 351 might like the rich condition and not act up like it would on a 90 degree day.
4) What does your vacume drop off to when you 3/4 to full throttle?
Your power valve (hg # is also part number, for instance 6.5 stock opens at 6.5 hg or lower vacume) should be 2 numbers bigger than your wide open throttle vacume reading. If your vacume drops off to 3 than you should replace your power valve to a 5. This is not how much gas the power valve dumps in but rather when.
DO NOT JUST DRIVE IT AROUND THE BLOCK WHEN MAKING CHANGES. MAKE ONE CHANGE AT A TIME AND DRIVE IT FOR 2 DAYS UNDER DIFFERENT CONDITIONS BEFORE GOING ANY FURTHER. MAKE NOTES.
5) once you get the right size powervalve than you can make changes to your primary jets up or down depending on wether you are rich or lean. Again DRIVE IT FOR A DAY OR TWO AFTER MAKING A CHANGE.
when you get your primary jets and powervalve where the engine runs sweet all the time THEN go back and hook up the secondary linkage. Leave the Zip tie around vacume linkage.
Now with secondaries reatached, go run it up to 4000 rpm and see if they are opening by the Zip tie being pushed down the shaft. If not go with a lighter spring. The new carb only came with 2 different springs but you can get the whole set at any good auto part store. Keep going lighter on springs untill they begin to open around 3500 rpm, I wouldn't recomend opening your secondaries any sooner on a Windsor. The 670 Holley primaries will provide enough air and fuel to feed a 351 to about 3500-4000 rpm.
Out of the box my holley ran like crap. After going to a 4.5hg power valve and 64s on the jets the thing runs sweet. No more black smoke or the thing stumbling on it's face when at low rpms on the trail. The leaner jetting allowed me to open my secondaries a lot sooner wich allows more air through the carb at higher rpm when the motor needs it.
Good Luck with your tunning. I Highly recomend doing this your self weather you have much carb experience or not. The only way anybody else could get the jetting spot on would be if you loaned them your bronco for a week to rod the **** out of.
if you have any questions feel free to Email me .

 

this will get lengthy but let me give you the whole story and see if you can shed some light.

first i think it is tool lean and not too rich. when it noses over it starts to pop really bad (sounding lean). when i pull a plug it looks like brand new (no color). exhaust is clear no black smoke and throttel is very responsive.

i had a 650 double pumper to start with. i liked the idea of the off road advantages of the avenger, the electric choke and the ability to hook up my kickdown rod. so i bought a avenger.

when i put it on it starts great cold and you can take off almost imediately. it is very driveable friendly vs the double pumper. it ran great until you floored it. it is very responsive from a dead stop tromp up to 3500 rpm it would nose over and start to pop.

first i started jetting it up a couple of sizes at a time trying to get it to clear up. it had 68's to start with. worked my way all the way up to 80's before i started to get color on the plugs and blowing some black out of the exhaust. still noseing over, so i put the 68's back in. went and bought a spring kit for the secondaries. worked my way to the lightest spring with some inprovement. it would not nose over until about 4200 now. then i was thinking that the power valve was not opening fast enough so i put a vacume gauge on it like you said before. had 18" of vacume at idel, as soon as you floor it the vacume goes to 0" and does not come up until i lift my foot . so i ruled out the power valve thinking when it goes to 0" imediately then the valve should be open.

at that point i figured i had a bad carb and sent it back for another one. got the new one and slap in the face the same problem.

yesterday i put the 650 double pumper back on. started it up (have to let this one warm up before driving) and took it out. clear as a bell up to redline 5000 rpm. double pumper has the same powervalve (65) and a 72 main jet and 74 rear jet.

i love the driveability of the avenger and would like to get it to not to nose over. can't loose my top end power. spend all that money for a new 351w w/gt 40 heads and not be able to rev past 4200 is not a option.

so after all that, any ideas?

 

Spart, did you try putting somthing like a small ziptie around the small shaft going into the vacume diaphram housing to see if it is pulling your secondary open? just slide the zip tie all the way up the shaft to the bottom of the vacume housing and go drive it. If they are opening than you should find the tie pushed part way down the shaft.
I am running 351w stock bore, 9.6:1 comp. Gt 40 heads Edelbrock RPM intake, long headers into 2.5" dual exhaust with edelbrock rpm series stainless mufflers, DUI distributor, I don't rember the exzact specs. on the cam but it is a Ford Racing in the 290 degrees at .500 lift .490/502 range. The 670 avenger holley ran way too rich out of the box for my engine.When the secondaries started to open it would run like somebody pulled the choke closed. In the box there should have been a number for a Tech Line. If you call that number you will get an actual carburator shop not Holley. If you call them I'm sure they can help you.

 

sounds like you have just about the same engine i do maybe a bit more cam. going to get a 45 powervalve today and jet it down the same as you did and see if there is a inprovement. thanks for the help i have my fingers crossed.