I have a 93 Ranger 2.3l 4x4 and I started losing heat about a year ago. I replaced the Thermostat which was stuck in the open position. However after I replaced that thermostat, I still didn't have any heat, so I figured bad themostat, I purchased another one from Napa, and I drained and flushed the radiator. Still no heat or engine temperature, I went to another Parts store and purchased another thermostat, with the same results, I finally broke down and went to Ford and bought one from them $10 dollars more than the previous 3. But had the same result. I have talked to the Ford Techs and they are as confused with this as I am. I have replaced all the hoses to and from the radiator. I know that the system is full and there are no air bubbles in system. I think my next part to change is the thermostat housing itself, but i am having problems finding one at a junkyard and Ford wants $150 for a new one.

Sorry for the long post, I am just getting more and more frustrated by the moment and just wondered if anyone had seen this problem or had any ideas for me to try, or if you know of a place where I can get a Thermostat Housing cheaper then Ford can get one for me. I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance.
Jon

 

If I were you, this is what I would do; With the engine totally COLD, I would remove the radiator cap. If the radiator is full to the top, then I would just simply start the engine, then get out QUICKLY to look inside the radiator, and see if the coolant is moving. The coolant should move a little, because of the bypass circuit (some engines have a dedicated bypass, and some just use the HEATER CORE as the full time bypass ... I'm not sure about Rangers yet). But, if the coolant is GUSHING through the radiator right away, that is an indication of a WIDE OPEN THERMOSTAT. However, like yourself, I find it incredibly hard to believe that you would have the SAME PROBLEM with that many T-stats in a row. If the coolant is NOT gushing upon startup, but moving slowly like it should, then just watch it as the engine heats up. Monitor everything while you are waiting. Do the heater hoses get warm to the touch?? Do any other engine components get warm to the touch?? After 10, 15, maybe 20 minutes running, does the coolant ever start to GUSH through the radiator at all?? Have you, by any chance, heard excessive pinging suddenly since this temp problem began?? The reason I ask ... I wonder if your water pump is failing to pump for some reason?? The hot water in the engine would never make it to the heater core or radiator, but, the engine WOULD overheat, causing detonation if it gets hot enough.
Other thoughts??

 

Just to clarify this for me, what do you mean by little or no heat? Do you mean the gauge inside the vehicle is reading cold, or that the engine is cold for some unknown reason, or something else entirely?

 

Thanks for the replies, I have watched the radiator when I start it and everything seems to be moving as it should. I have eliminated the fact that the thermostat is bad by taking it out and heating a pan of water on the stove to the temperature that the thermostat should open and it was working properly. There are no pinging noises. The engine is not overheating because it is never heating up, not only on the gauge but I have checked the engine block with an Infared Thermometer and it isn't registering to the temperature that the themometer would be opening.

 

I am THOROUGHLY puzzled, and curious. I can't wait to see how this pans out. I'll keep thinking about it. Stay in touch with us here.

 

Do you drive the truck any distance? The impeller can be loose on the waterpump, which can cause little or no movement of the coolant. Are you using the proper antifreeze mix? Let us know.

 

I suspect that your heater core is plugged from collecting core sand over the last 10 years. Check to see that the heater hoses going to the heater core on the engine side of the dash are hot. If one is a lot hotter than the other, there is most likely little or no coolant flow through the core.

 

Luckild, I drive it about 85 miles a day round trip, if the impeller was loose on the waterpump wouldn't that make a noise? I am using a 50/50 mixture, I have messed around with different mixtures before and that didn't provide any different results.

Rangerpat, I would agree with you, but my question is why wouldn't the engine temp be getting up to normal operating temps.

 

That type of driving would cause overheating if the impeller was loose. 50/50 mix is great, many people think straight antifreeze won't freeze and usually find out the hard way. I don't have a sulution for your problem now, but will ponder it some more. Don't give up on us, we're overlooking something. What type of fan system do you have? Thermo, electric or otherwise.

 

luckild,

Thanks for the reply, I have a thermo fan system on this truck, I have checked out the fan clutch, and that is working fine, because I can start the truck and reach in and stop the fan from turning and it doesn't stall the engine.

 

"pacers40", I was reading your very first post, to try to see if there's anything we've missed. You say that your Ranger started losing heat about a year ago. How long have you had your Ranger (bought it new or used)?? Had there been any work done to it about a year ago?? Was the water pump replaced about a year ago?? The reason I ask, my old '85 had quite a maze of coolant hoses & pipes ... I can see where someone might route something INCORRECTLY by mistake. Just a thought. What can you tell us about the history of the truck??

 

is it posiible to have a bad radiator, venting all time and not allowing it heat properly?

 

I mean radiator cap!! Sorry, I typed to fast?

 

I would put in a real temperature guage and see what it reads. There is just too much heat being generated to not let it get warmed up.

 

No, there is no way you could be running that engine for any length of time without getting something hot. Is your exhaust manifold hot? Your exhaust? That radiator is there for a reason and it isn't to keep the engine cold - its to keep the engine from overheating and detonating the fuel prematurely. That heat is going somewhere, it has to be the coolant, the question now is where is the coolant dumping the heat.