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I'm new to all this...I've had the truck for about three months and have managed to get a lot done. But... I've been chasing down an oil leak. I decided to change out the gasket on the oil pan and rear main seal. I got the oil pan off just fine. Not the easiest process, but I managed. Now I can't seem to get at the rear main seal. I'm posting a picture of what I'm looking at. The two big empty holes at the left end of the picture are where the two bolts go that I thought would allow me to drop out the lower half of the housing that holds one of the seals. I can't get it to budge, though. I was hoping someone might have a tip or trick (or tell me I'm totally in the wrong place).
Thanks!
Boosh Bolts removed
Rotated the engine and put the bolts back in a little to get leverage. Also have cleared out remnants of the old gasket.
You are opening up a can of worms. Put the bolts back and torque to spec. 99% it still has a rope seal, and you will likely create a bigger leak than you have now. To do that right you need to have the crank out of the engine. That said there is a procedure to do that, an old Motors Manual tells how. I have never done that and wouldn't even consider doing it.
Bobby, you didn’t mention whether you used any special tools when you did those in‑frame FE rear main seals. Did you go back in with a rope seal, a neoprene/Viton two‑piece, or have you done both?
On the rope seals especially, the upper half usually needs something like the old Chinese finger trap puller to walk it around the crank. They’re tough to push in from below with the crank still installed.
Back in the day the trick was to lay a short piece of butcher’s string in the groove first to take up a little space, then install the rope seal on top of it — gave the rope a bit more crush so it sealed better. But that works best with the crank out.
Curious what method you used and what’s worked best for you.
The rear main cap on an FE is slightly doweled into the block, so it won’t just drop off when the bolts come out. One good trick is to reinstall the bolts a few turns and tap the bolt heads sideways to break the dowel/rope‑seal grip. That sideways shock is what frees it — not pulling straight down.
If that still doesn’t move it, a wooden block and a hammer against the side of the cap will usually break the seal tension. Once the dowels let go, the cap will come straight down without prying on the block.
I’d definitely lean toward using a modern neoprene/Viton two‑piece seal when going back together. It seals better, lasts longer, and you avoid fighting a rope seal in‑frame. Even with the neoprene style, you may still need to loosen the other main caps a bit to let the crank drop just enough to sneak the upper half into place.
I don’t envy anyone doing this job in‑situ. It can be done, but it’s not fun. Personally, I’d rather pull the engine to do a rear main on an FE, but if someone is determined to do it in the vehicle, it’s possible. I recently put a new one-piece rear main seal into my 300 6 cylinder with it in the truck but it's a different design.
KD tool # 492 rear main replacement tool.
With the bolts removed pry the main cap back and forth and the cap will come down. Loosen the rest of the main caps
And to make it easier remove the transmission. Also a good time to replace the main bearings.
Also check the rear of the intake manifold cork gasket where that is the cause of the leak.
The intake gasket is no cake walk either. A engine hoist make that job easier.
Bobby, you didn’t mention whether you used any special tools when you did those in‑frame FE rear main seals. Did you go back in with a rope seal, a neoprene/Viton two‑piece, or have you done both?
On the rope seals especially, the upper half usually needs something like the old Chinese finger trap puller to walk it around the crank. They’re tough to push in from below with the crank still installed.
Back in the day the trick was to lay a short piece of butcher’s string in the groove first to take up a little space, then install the rope seal on top of it — gave the rope a bit more crush so it sealed better. But that works best with the crank out.
Curious what method you used and what’s worked best for you.
The rear main cap on an FE is slightly doweled into the block, so it won’t just drop off when the bolts come out. One good trick is to reinstall the bolts a few turns and tap the bolt heads sideways to break the dowel/rope‑seal grip. That sideways shock is what frees it — not pulling straight down.
If that still doesn’t move it, a wooden block and a hammer against the side of the cap will usually break the seal tension. Once the dowels let go, the cap will come straight down without prying on the block.
I’d definitely lean toward using a modern neoprene/Viton two‑piece seal when going back together. It seals better, lasts longer, and you avoid fighting a rope seal in‑frame. Even with the neoprene style, you may still need to loosen the other main caps a bit to let the crank drop just enough to sneak the upper half into place.
I don’t envy anyone doing this job in‑situ. It can be done, but it’s not fun. Personally, I’d rather pull the engine to do a rear main on an FE, but if someone is determined to do it in the vehicle, it’s possible. I recently put a new one-piece rear main seal into my 300 6 cylinder with it in the truck but it's a different design.
Ex-Ford heavy line tech. I never installed a rope seal, always two-piece rubber. Fish out the rope, pipe cleaner the groove and install the Felpro seal.
The cap can be removed by removing the cap bolts, inserting them back into the cap and using them as a handle to wiggle the cap while pulling down.
In regards to the neoprene seal be sure that there is no locating pin on the lower cap. You may not have one but if one is present it has to be removed. It is to keep the rope seal from moving. I once saw someone use the neoprene seal that did not remove the pin. Also be sure to clock the neoprene seal according to the instructions.
I appreciate all the advice! I was considering backing off and just not doing this. I've got the replacement seals already, but was wondering if I was over my head. But the more I research and think about the oil leak symptoms I'm seeing, the more I'm convinced that the real main seal is the issue. I've watched a few more videos and dug out my huge "Truck repair guide from the 60s and 70s" manual (that's not the real name of the book, but it's close enough). One key thing that I've seen mentioned a couple of times is that you should loosen the two bolts on each of the other bearing caps, which will loosen the crankshaft by just a bit, which helps make the rear bearing cover come out a little more easily. I understand that getting the rope seal out can be slow, tedious, and frustrating. But once that's out the rest doesn't look terrible. As long as I get the neoprene seals in facing the correct direction, make sure there's no locating pin in the lower cap (thanks, Kenny!), and make sure the seals are slightly offset (or clocked) by the same amount, things should be good.
I sanded my oil pan down to bare metal and repainted it. I'm letting it cure before putting it back on, so I have time tonight to work on that rear main seal. I just feel like it needs to be done one way or another, and I don't have a good place to take it to have it done. So far I've been doing it all myself, so I figure I'll give this a shot as well. If anyone thinks I'm totally crazy for trying it, feel free to talk me down. Last night I was ready to abandon the rear main seal and start looking for a shop to take it to. Today I've got a little more confidence and I'm willing to give it a shot.
I say, go for it, but then again, I probably need to do the same thing, and prefer to let you do it first. Also, if was anywhere near you, I would offer to come, bring some kind of hydration libation, and hold the flashlight.
Please take lots of photo's, and don't forget to tell us your process and how it turns out.
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Rear seal
