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My 2016 F-150 XLT 4x4 5.0 was due for spark plugs, and I went ahead and swapped them out. Problem is with those pesky coil connectors. I was able to get them all disconnected without much trouble, but I notice after having installed the new plugs and boots, and reattaching the coils to the head, I'm having trouble getting the connectors to click into full connection. Even after sliding in that final plastic piece on the top, you can still slide the plug off of the coil. I believe that you have to listen for a click when you slide the plug onto the coil, and then you slide the white tab until it clicks, right? I thought I had the job completed but now I get a check engine light and a rough idle. I'm sure it has to do the those connectors. The truck was running well before I changed the plugs, but at 62000 and never been changed, they were due. See pics. Thanks for any advice on this. Here's what the old plugs looked like. Passenger side bank Drivers' side bank
Get some dielectric grease and put a light coating on the inside edge of the coil pack plug all the way around and that will lubricate the seal in the connector end and they will all pop on with ease.
I have the new plugs and boots correctly installed with some anti seize on the plugs (Motorcraft) and dielectric grease on the new boots. Incidentally the old boots were like new, but as you can see from the pics above, the plugs were overdue at ~62k. The problem is getting the coil connectors to seat properly. And now, after startup, I have the CEL to deal with and don't have a reader for that. What's the best/most reasonable code reader for a late model i.e., 2016? It's pouring down rain now so I won't try seating the coil connectors till probably tomorrow.Thanks.
Thanks for the auto zone /advanced tip. Haven't done that yet because before I start it up I want the blasted coil clips firmly seated. Got there of them on the drivers' side, so that after you slide the white locking tab forward they are secure. See pics. The other five are stubbornly not clicking when I slide then onto the coil. I slide them on carefully as far as they're supposed to , then slide the white locking tab in place, and you can just slide them right off of the coil! I figure after they're all in place that it should run like new. I am not sure the CEL will go away though. Probably have to have it reset, at the auto zone or advanced? Thanks. Three clips locked in place in this side. Not a lot of room on the pass. side. More pass. side Mean little devils, shouldn't be so difficult to maneuver.
You know, I was thinking maybe of lubing those connectors with something but was afraid that it would somehow messing up the flow of current, whatever. Got it! Inside perimeter of the connector. I will try that today and let you know how it works out.
Tried the grease, no go. You're supposed to hear a click when you slide the connector into the coil, right? THEN you slide in the white locking tab. Well, I'm not getting the click I'm supposed to hear when I slide the connector into the coil pack. I mean, they are supposed to be "clicked" in place even before you slide the white tab in place, right? Without that first click, you don't have a solid connection, even with the tab locked in place. You can still slide the connectors out of the coil pack with the tab locked in place. I didn't damage anything when I took it apart that I know of. Don't want to replace coils if I don't have to. This is aggravating.
You know, I was thinking maybe of lubing those connectors with something but was afraid that it would somehow messing up the flow of current, whatever. Got it! Inside perimeter of the connector. I will try that today and let you know how it works out.
Dielectric grease is non-conductive. I use DC-4 on a lot of stuff. It repels water, and does not conduct electricity.
I watched the fordmakuloco guy on u-tube doing a similar job (his truck had red tabs but apparently they work the same as my white tabs), and he confirmed that yes, you have to hear a "click" when sliding the connector onto the coil pack. He even said not to worry if you break one of the locking tabs, as long as the connector is in place evidenced by the "click'. So, I will keep trying till I get the other five clicked on. There should be nothing wrong with either the coil connectors or the plug end, seeing how I was careful in the removal process not to break anything. I found that you can replace the coil connectors without having to cut and solder or butt joint connect. The connector can be removed from the wiring and replaced if you mess them up. It's a tricky process though. Supposedly Amazon has them. Hope it doesn't get to that.
Yesterday I took it to O'Reilly's and checked the DTC and had a bad coil on no. 3 cylinder. That was causing the miss. Bought and installed a new coil, then disconnected the battery overnight, expecting that that would clear the CEL. This morning I cleaned the battery terminals and reconnected the battery, and it still has a CEL. First of all, why did a bad coil show up after changing plugs when it was running well before changing plugs? Is it possible that if those coil connectors are not firmly clicked in place, that running the engine will blow a coil? I just now ran it for a few minutes and it seems to be developing a miss. Even though I have them on as far as they will go, I just can't get those coil connectors all clicked firmly! you can still slide them right off. Even with the tabs clicked in place! If I didn't owe so much on this truck I would get rid of it and find an old truck. These new trucks are not worth owning, period. Forget taking one to a dealership! As far as these coil connectors go, they should not be so finicky as to cause other problems as I am starting to suspect. So, Back to O"Reilly's for another check. More to follow.
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