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Steering wheel replacement caution.

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Old Dec 10, 2003 | 06:03 PM
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Angry Steering wheel replacement caution.

I learned this the hard, and/or expensive way!

I have noticed that on Ebay, as well as my local salvage yards, that most people will have steering wheels to fit the 1973-1979 trucks.

While they will "fit", they do not always work correctly. There was a change around late 1976 I believe, to steering wheels with two seperate metal contact rings in the rear of the wheel (vs. one), that work with the spring plunger switches in the column.

A 1977,78,79 wheel will fit on older trucks, but the horn will have a short, causing constant sounding. The 1973,74,75,76 have a single contact ring, and connect to a single plunger switch, and hence would not work correctly on the later year models.


I just couldn't believe that to be true since they look so similar, but they are very different.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2003 | 12:23 PM
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Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 07:07 PM
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I guess I'm a day late researching this. I just did a search to find out why my horn is stuck on, and it's because I'm using a '78 up wheel on a '77. One other issue I'm having may be for the same reason, unless anyone else has some insight. I installed the turn signal cancel cam on the back of the wheel, and it seems to hit the plastic cancel arms on the switch. Whenever I turn the wheel, it clicks, whether or not the turn signal is on.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 07:29 PM
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It is easy to tell if that is the reason. If you pull your steering wheel, (horn should be hooked back up now) and can take a small screwdriver or wire and "short" from the plunger to the steering post, you should hear your horn sound. If it does, then look at the back of your wheel and you will probably notice that you have one outer metal contact ring, and one inner metal contact ring, that is also attached to the spline housing.

What is happening is exactly what happens when you "short" the plunger to the steering post. When you put the wheel back on, they are "connected", hence the constant sounding of the horn. On a later model truck, the plunger switch contacts the outside ring, and only "shorts" when you press on the horn button. You can also try this with a meter set to continuity.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 08:46 PM
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Any ideas how we can "remedy" this difference without swapping out the entire column?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 10:07 PM
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I had all kinds of ideas at first, but I put in a temp horn button until I can find the correct steering wheel, and I think finding one will correct both problems. BUT....you could always replace the electrical internals from a newer model truck. I saw several at salvage yards while looking for an older steering wheel. I may have to do this as well. That way, the plunger will line up with the correct contact ring, and your turn signal cam should work better. Also, unless you are trying to restore the truck, you could always put in an aftermarket. This takes the cam out of the equation, as it has a different set up. The total cost for mine would have been 15.00 for the adapter kit, and wheels from 26.00 and up. Good luck finding 15" wheels in stock. I saw a NOS steering wheel on the web for 199.00. Too much for me.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 10:18 PM
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I'll probably keep my eyes peeled for the correct wheel. The horn hasn't worked since I bought the truck, so it's not like I miss it. All is not lost, though. I no longer have to worry about damaging the wheel I borrowed from my Mustang.
 
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