Undercaoting a new 2004 Explorer?
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: The Poconos of PA
Undercaoting a new 2004 Explorer?
Hi everyone,
Since we still love our 92 Explorer, we decided to get a new 2004 XLT. Two days old and it's beautiful! I was wondering everyone's opinion on undercoating. I want this truck to last 10 maybe 15 years! I live in Northeastern Pennsylvania and we get a lot of snow here in what they call "The Snow Belt". These new vehicles seem to be better protected than the ones from say the 70's, 80's, or 90's. When I look under the new truck I can see that now they coat all of the frame and most of the suspension with a black substance. It's smooth in appearance so maybe it's just paint, I don't know. The under body parts are painted the color of the body (silver). The dealer doesn't apply undercoat, I would either use the aerosol myself or take it somewhere and pay for a "professional" job. I usually don't trust most "professionals" with my possessions, so I'd rather not go that route.
What do you guys think?
Thanks,
Joe
Since we still love our 92 Explorer, we decided to get a new 2004 XLT. Two days old and it's beautiful! I was wondering everyone's opinion on undercoating. I want this truck to last 10 maybe 15 years! I live in Northeastern Pennsylvania and we get a lot of snow here in what they call "The Snow Belt". These new vehicles seem to be better protected than the ones from say the 70's, 80's, or 90's. When I look under the new truck I can see that now they coat all of the frame and most of the suspension with a black substance. It's smooth in appearance so maybe it's just paint, I don't know. The under body parts are painted the color of the body (silver). The dealer doesn't apply undercoat, I would either use the aerosol myself or take it somewhere and pay for a "professional" job. I usually don't trust most "professionals" with my possessions, so I'd rather not go that route.
What do you guys think?
Thanks,
Joe
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,174
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From: Near Wamego KS
IMHO its a waste of money. No aerosol spray is going to stick and cover better then the paint already there. Friend of mine who worked in a dealer laughed at the idea years ago - put the car (truck) on a lift, spray the fender wells with a $2.00 can of black paint (take a little care to keep it off the exterior paint) and charge $400.00 for rust proofing.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 248
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From: MN
LOOK IN THE MANUAL
my dad bought a 03 suburban( LT, beautiful!) and was thinking about undercoating, the dealership recommended it. He was reading through the manual and it said DO NOT UNDERCOAT and that it has already been done by GM on all the parts needed.
my dad bought a 03 suburban( LT, beautiful!) and was thinking about undercoating, the dealership recommended it. He was reading through the manual and it said DO NOT UNDERCOAT and that it has already been done by GM on all the parts needed.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 29
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From: Stavanger-Norway
Rust protection
96
After 20 years of car-care here in south west Norway, I can speak from an experience based upon one of the most corrosive environments for cars.
In the winter, they put salt on the roads, and during summer, the wind transport sea-salt on-land.
Your assumption of spraying conventional oil underneath the car is a good idea, but will not help. It is not tough enough.
However, the rust problems are not the most critical where you can easily see the surfaces; the problems will be where the water can penetrate between narrow clearances and not drying out, and where there is no air-circulation, like inside the doors.
*** The corrosion resistance of a new cars relates to the use of zink plating, and applied micro-crystalinic oil by the factory. You need to check.
As the years have passed, I have seen the effect of different methods, and I can make a short summary.
1. CAVITIES
It is always extremely inportant to find someone with the expertise of using dedicated car-body oil products. In this case micro-crystallinic inhibitor oil which penetrates in the smallest pockets, and keep humidity out. Holes must be drilled in order to get the oil spray nozzles inside cavities, inside the doors, profiles etc. These are plugged afterwards with plastic plugs, and will be used next time it is due for reapplying.
2. UNDER_BODY
I have seen tragic examples of using thick undercoating bc after some years the water will start penetrating in from all sharp edges. The coating will always bee too thin on the edges; corrosion starts to penetrate, and you will not see it before the coating starts falling off. Then the rust attack can bee severe, and far worse as if is has not been any coating there.
-The best solution I have used so far is a special oil threatment, where a thick black car- body oil is applied, which is heavy enough to resist the wear from environment. This must be reapplied each other year to keep a maximum protection.
IT WORKS bc the oil is active, and do not dry out. Therefore there is not any layer which is separating from the surface, and the water can never come in between.
The treatment is called: NOPAVA, and is originally developed in Denmark
**Drive your car on the ferry and come to Norway for a treatment..lol
After 20 years of car-care here in south west Norway, I can speak from an experience based upon one of the most corrosive environments for cars.
In the winter, they put salt on the roads, and during summer, the wind transport sea-salt on-land.
Your assumption of spraying conventional oil underneath the car is a good idea, but will not help. It is not tough enough.
However, the rust problems are not the most critical where you can easily see the surfaces; the problems will be where the water can penetrate between narrow clearances and not drying out, and where there is no air-circulation, like inside the doors.
*** The corrosion resistance of a new cars relates to the use of zink plating, and applied micro-crystalinic oil by the factory. You need to check.
As the years have passed, I have seen the effect of different methods, and I can make a short summary.
1. CAVITIES
It is always extremely inportant to find someone with the expertise of using dedicated car-body oil products. In this case micro-crystallinic inhibitor oil which penetrates in the smallest pockets, and keep humidity out. Holes must be drilled in order to get the oil spray nozzles inside cavities, inside the doors, profiles etc. These are plugged afterwards with plastic plugs, and will be used next time it is due for reapplying.
2. UNDER_BODY
I have seen tragic examples of using thick undercoating bc after some years the water will start penetrating in from all sharp edges. The coating will always bee too thin on the edges; corrosion starts to penetrate, and you will not see it before the coating starts falling off. Then the rust attack can bee severe, and far worse as if is has not been any coating there.
-The best solution I have used so far is a special oil threatment, where a thick black car- body oil is applied, which is heavy enough to resist the wear from environment. This must be reapplied each other year to keep a maximum protection.
IT WORKS bc the oil is active, and do not dry out. Therefore there is not any layer which is separating from the surface, and the water can never come in between.
The treatment is called: NOPAVA, and is originally developed in Denmark
**Drive your car on the ferry and come to Norway for a treatment..lol
