New to the forum, so please let me know if I overlook stating something important.
New to me 1996 2WD F250 XLT 7.3L bought through an online auction. Unfortunately, there were few more issues than what the seller stated in the listing. Most have been taken care of, but one issue remains that I need some advice on...

I replaced the rear drum brakes and wheel cylinders due to a leak on the drivers side. After finishing, I had both wheels off the ground, and truck in neutral to adjust. This is when I noticed the hubs would not turn. They actually turned, but took everything I had to do it.
Removed the drums to ensure the brakes were not the issue...same thing. Removed the driveshaft from the rear...same thing.
Transmission side would turn just fine.
I removed both hubs/axles in case an axle bearing was seized...everything looked good (although a lot of rust on the drivers side under the seal, which may have been the cause of my leak all along.

My axle is a C5 (10.25, Full Float, Limited Slip, 4.10s). I just want to double confirm that I should indeed be able to rotate everything by hand?
If so, I am now faced with taking it in to a shop, or ordering a rebuilt rear end (would rather not chance a junkyard unknown). Any other thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

 

I have an 8.8, not a 10.25, with 4.10s and limited slip and mine turns pretty easy. Any grinding sounds?

I would at least pull the cover off and inspect the insides and oil.

 

Pull off the hubs then inspect the inner and outer bearings. Perhaps someone over torque them. Or....lack of lube and now the bearings are toast.

 

I had the truck transported from California. They delivered it and drove 1min to my house then tore into the brakes cause it was a mess and didn't want to drive without good brakes. I didn't notice any grinding, but was really too fast to tell.
I didn't want to pull the cover yet if I confirmed it should turn without issue...didn't want to pay for diff fluid if I needed to haul it to the shop anyways. Inside of the diff is going to be beyond my abilities (and tooling).

 

Quote:

After finishing, I had both wheels off the ground, and truck in neutral to adjust. This is when I noticed the hubs would not turn. They actually turned, but took everything I had to do it.

Was the truck (frame) on jack stands with the rear axle hanging down or were the stands under the axle tubes?

 

I had pulled both hubs...all inner and outer bearings looked good. still won't turn with both hubs pulled.

 

Stands are under the axle tubes.

 

Were the wheels fairly easy to turn by hand before relining?

Shoes adjusted too tightly?

 

I didn’t try to move them before as I only had one wheel in the air at a time.
drums are off the truck.

 

Quote:

My axle is a C5 (10.25, Full Float, Limited Slip, 4.10s)

So with the axles removed and hubs still on, did you try to turn by hand?

How long did the truck sit before you got it?

When the delivery driver moved the truck did he mention any noise or binding (especially on a turn)?

Being LIMITED SLIP, the clutch pack may be seized or not adjusted correctly..

The fluid is full and reasonably fresh? Maybe a limited slip additive was not added at some point.

Axle vent clear? Did the previous owner use the truck to haul a boat?

 

With the axles removed, the hubs turned without issue.

Not sure if the truck sat for any length of time, or if he had the backend in the water from launching a boat. Of coarse he has not responded to any requests after the truck was picked up.

no comments from the truck driver when I asked him about the fluid by the wheel…not the friendliest of people.

When I removed the axles, the fluid looked good. Who knows if fresh or not though.

Assuming Axle vent wont currently matter since I have them pulled.

I am not familiar with the clutch pack…let me do some digging on that!

 

If you have the axles removed, how easy does the pinion turn by hand? Put a socket and ratchet on the flange nut and see how easy it turns. If bearings are jacked, you would probably be able to feel it in the ratchet.

 

Quote:

...no comments from the truck driver when I asked him about the fluid by the wheel…

Where was fluid?

Try to turn the pinion as described in previous post.

 

Normal operation it sounds like to me
You JUST found out how hard it is to turn a limited slip around by the wheels
Drive line is not much easier
Those 10.25's are tough
Go easy on those wheel bearing hub seals, and if mine, I'd verify there is a slinger kit installed
Those leaked gear oil for years before we added slinger kits to every 10.25 Sterling axle out there
Numerous bulletins and updated seals came out before somebody figured it out that the slinger was the fix

 

By transmission side I assume you mean the pinion. Which is where I am lost. If the diff is damaged, it should be difficult to turn from anywhere. Do the axles turn when you spin the pinion?