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Are you asking about the RESIDUAL PRESSURE VALVE(S)?
On DRUM BRAKES, a 10# RPV (or wheel cyl expansion cups) is required.
The purpose is to not allow the pistons to return so quickly (brake shoe spring tension) on pedal release as to allow the piston cups to partially collapse and allow air to be ingested into the system or have fluid leakage.
This and proper shoe adjustment is what dictates correct pedal height on a DISC/DRUM application.
The PRV only maintains enough pressure to prevent cup shudder. It does not hold the shoes out.
Are you asking about the RESIDUAL PRESSURE VALVE(S)?
On DRUM BRAKES, a 10# RPV (or wheel cyl expansion cups) is required.
The purpose is to not allow the pistons to return so quickly (brake shoe spring tension) on pedal release as to allow the piston cups to partially collapse and allow air to be ingested into the system or have fluid leakage.
This and proper shoe adjustment is what dictates correct pedal height on a DISC/DRUM application.
The PRV only maintains enough pressure to prevent cup shudder. It does not hold the shoes out.
k. So what I really need to do is take the brake lines off and the reducer off and verify if I have residuel valve in the MC or not.
after bleeding the brakes yesterday back it out of the shop to clean the shop floor of all oil, transmission and brake fluids and snapped some pictures.
Going to Summit for new rims Saturday morning.
Is the MC a recent service replacement? The vendor should be able to tell you if it has an RPV in the drum circuit. Save you a lot of trouble.
Recent SERVICE REPLACEMENTS (CHI-COM) usually do not include the valve(s). It is a crap-shoot.
Your front calipers, are they OEM or a conversion using GM DELCO low-drag calipers?
If no internal valve, you can add an external inline valve or put a cup expander style kit in the wheel cylinders.
You have the rear brakes adjusted correctly and they have worn in (new shoes)? It may take some miles before they seat properly and then after proper adjustment the self-adjuster feature will take over (if it is functional).
Okay folks I have to step in ask a question I have done a Disc/Drum conversion and my MC is a Disc/Drum MC. should I have these on both or just the rear drum brakes?? The rear drum are the original brakes nothing has been changed. I just bleed the brakes after setting for almost 20 years in the shop and I’m still not really happy with the brakes they’re kinda spongy and to me the pedal is going way further than I want it to plus I added a power brake booster when it was a NON power brake truck.
My reading comprehension seems to be lacking (OLD FART ADHD).
The truck sat for twenty years? Are you sure the rear cylinders are not sticking/frozen?
The booster add-on. Did the kit maker mention anything about booster pin the MC piston correct adjustment?
My reading comprehension seems to be lacking (OLD FART ADHD).
The truck sat for twenty years? Are you sure the rear cylinders are not sticking/frozen?
The booster add-on. Did the kit maker mention anything about booster pin the MC piston correct adjustment?
What style front disc did you use?
I’ll check the rear brakes and make sure they’re adjusted right and makes sure they braking right that’s what I have my little old wife for she’s my helping foot
everything came from donor trucks around the 72 time line
which the only thing I can’t tell you is if I bought a 72 and above MC or not. I’m thinking I did get a 72 MC
K. Adjusted the rear brake shoes they were off a little then had the little wifey step on the brake to see if the wheel cylinders are working both are working. So set the truck back down on all four and put it in reverse and slowly let off the brake and about even with the throttle pedal it begins to creep backwards so I’m pretty happy with that I’ll keep an eye on it. Thanx for all the help and input on this matter. After rims and tires the next upgrade will be rear disc brake kit from LMC
Just do me a favor, make sure the brakes are properly operational (on the road) before letting the missus drive it, OK?
ya out of the classics and antiques that I’ve restored and have she refuse to drive any of them because she afraid if she gets into an accident. She’s told me she would disappear and leave the state before she told me she wrecked one of my classics. She will not even drive the new VW ID Buzz I bought.
So I’ll be the only one test driving and checking it out.
It is her health I am worried about, not the truck. Just make sure it stops correctly especially in a full panic stop, before you give it to her (and yeah, they always win)