I plan on buying Ford Racing Performance Parts 345hp 302 crate engine (pn# M-3007-XE3 I think) to replace the tired (150K miles w/o engine ever being apart) 302 in my truck. I know I will have to add an intake (will be using a Edelbrock Air Gap RPM), a carb (Road Demon 4bbl), starter, and other accesories to make it run. I'll be upgrading the distributor and ignitions while I'm at it (any recomendations).
What other problems might I run into in swaping this engine in? From what I understand it's based on the '87-94 "5.0" mustang engine and is a "roller" motor with GT40 heads and such. Is there any reason this engine won't "bolt in"? Has anyone put any of fords long blocks in? If so how did the swap go and have you been happy with the engine? Any tips as far as engine replacement in general? If I take the hood off the truck how easy to get it back on and aligned right (assuming I mark the location of the hindge bracket on the hood)?
Also, does anyone know how swapping from 2.75 gears to 3.00 or 3.25 will afffect my off the line and highway cruising performance? I love the 2.75s b/c of the low 70mph crusing rpms but would like a tad more pep off the line (which should be no problem with the new engine). Also want to have a limited slip installed in the rear axle, any recomendations?
I will also be adding a shift kit to the c4 and possibly a stall converter, any recomendations as far as that goes?
Sorry for all the questions but I know you guys can help!
Nick

 

if it is a roller motor you need to get a steel distributor gear.

 

Roller cams require either a bronz distributor gear on better one on the new steel "composite" gears. I would definitely go to higher numeric gears or you wont have any bottom end.

 

All,
Go with the B&M 2400 holeshot stall converter. if your going to really have 300+ HP your bottom end is going to be weak. B&M makes many different shift kits, I'd go with a light one, say for towing or something like that for a truck.
Secondly, a 3.00 rear end is still a tall rear end and will get you your highway cruising needs required. the stall converter should help you out of the hole.
KingFisher

 

If i remember right your manifolds will need to be changed. Because the GT-40 heads have a diff. shaped ports. Which headers will be the best replacment. I'd drop the gears down to a 3.50:1 ratio or so.

 

I'd go with something in between 3.00 and 3.50 gears... and throw in a Detroit Truetrac... mine rocks!

 

That engine will be gutless at low rpm's so you will need some fairly high numeric gears. An automatic (AOD) with a high stall converter would be best.

 

getting bonnet to line up after removal can be tricky. Just did mine take two people three would be better. Left
to right align is easy. I,m still tweaking up down to get bonnet parralel to guards one sides spot on other i just can,t get perfect. good luck.

 

Dodo,
What are you talking about? bonnet?
KingFisher

 

I think he means a hood.

I drive this truck daily and while I plan on getting another vehicle within the next 1-2 yrs this will still be a daily driver and need to be streetable. I live out in the country (95% paved roads) so most roads I drive on are 50+mph and I reguarly drive 75mph too so highway crusing rpm is more or a priority than off the line performance. 345 is alot more than the 140hp my truck originally had so it should be much peppier off the line. While it is no race truck I would like it to get up and go quicker but I do love it's top end, I love surprising people in their new cars with how fast the truck is, I'm still gaining speed while they're hitting their speed limiter. My goal is to make the ultimate daily driver. Something that is fun and confortable to drive thats quick (looking to hit 13s in the 1/4), handels good (for a truck), fast (can go 120+), and looks good too. Oh and it has to be reliable I've got it pretty well planned out but I'm starting with the engine, no sense leaking oil all over my new suspension (I'll be lowering it approx. 3").

Appreciate the tip on the distributor.
I plan on using headers (they'll be hot coated.).
What effect will a stall converter have on towing? How about daily driving and engine/transmission life? Gas mileage?
A 3.25 rear gear would be best I take it? How much will it raise my crusing rpm? 500rpm or more?

Appreciate all the help, keep it comming!

Thank you,
Nick

 

Here's some calculators that I find really handy for checking out what different tires and/or gears will do to your RPMs...

http://www.ring-pinion.com/calculato...latorsind.html

 

you may be suprised how much LESS torque this crate engine will have down low...say 1200-1800 rpm than you stock "140hp" motor did.....for 300 cu" to make 345hp, well in excess of 1hp/cu", the motor is going to have to make torque HIGHER in the rpm range, therefore low end torque will be weak, especially when compared to a low rpm stock 302...that 302 would have likely produced ~240ftlbs @ 1500-2000 rpm, this one is prolly more like 150-180 in that range.
peak torque for that motor, say about 3800--4500??? where the other motors peak torque was at say 2200-2500???

you WILL need a looser converter, around 2400 minimum, and a higher numerically rear gear ratio, just as most above have said. this is why an aod would be nice, toss a set of 4:10 gears, and still have a .67 overdrive....that works out to a 2.75:1 final drive ratio btw, what you have now!


anyhoo, good luck, and let us know how it turns out!

 

I got 2.75s in my truck and they suck off the line.
28" tires @ 70 mph
2.75: 2500 rpm
3.25: 2750 rpm
3.50: 3000 rpm
keep your cruise rpm above the stall speed of your converter to prevent overheating.

 

All,
A fancy stall converter is great for high performance but! They are terrible for towing. They do not have a lockout and will slip at low speed cruising. Gas mileage will suffer, as well. When you want to haul ***, your going to burn gas. That was rather profound, if I do say so!
KingFisher

 

dont foget that the late model 5.0 has a 32 oz imbalance..you will need to get a correct flywheel. yours is 28 oz and will shake your teeth and bearings out if the early one is used..I'd go with 3.50 gears or even 3.70. this will get you into optimum effenciency range