I went and picked up a new chain set.
I will have to read up on how to chainge it. lol think I will need to pull the cam shaft gear? and an install tool?
I assume I line up the 2 dots and then take it off and install it the same. Currently bot dots are at 12 oclock. seems I could just reinstall it like that especially if I dont turn either one.

Here are some pictures of how I trimmed up the lower gasket.. this is a felpro kit but no real good instructions or detailed pictures. I had to trim the cork so it will align the hole when it touches the block. I also trimmed off the end tabs and even took a small chamfer cut since the cover has a radius there. then I trimmed the cork to fit inside the tapered rubber legs.

Also at 97k for a new truck I think I will care more for my baby.

 

Hard to install the new camshaft and crankshaft gears if you don’t remove the old ones. You might be ok doing that but it will be harder to tell if you are a tooth off. I would bring the engine up to TDC on #1 cylinder.

I had that discussion with a friend of mine last year. He posted a new Tremor pickup with a sticker price over $100K. He said it was affordable for what it is to which I said it was ridiculous that any pickup is that expensive.

 

I thought you may need a puller but no, the timing chain set comes out easily... it is very close to 3/8" and the old one was more like 1/4" measured with a steel ruler.
I've read to roque the bolt to 45 ft lbs and also use loctite... but how does loctite do anything with all the oil in the shaft threads. I sprayed in carb cleaner and blow it out but no way to get all that oil out IMHO

Any advice? I will be back in a few hours to hopefully get a big chunk of this assembled

 

Your new set has more play than your old? Or am I reading that wrong? I don’t have a 460, but I’ve never used loctite on any set on any motor I’ve done. Not saying it’s a lot, but none have come loose.

 

A tight bolt does not come loose. There are exceptions. I rarely use locktite even when the specs say to,

 

yes Sadly the play on the new chain set (Cloyes) is more than the old one. I was surprised at that... I will use the 45 ft lbs and continue.

 

well I got the pump on. Hopefully all correct. I did remember the oil slinger... that would be a real bad mistake to forget that. It is quite a handful to put gasket sealer on all 6 surfaces. Pro Tip: it is quite tricky to get the bottom of timing cover back far enough. Make sure it is back then drop down under and get the 3 oil pan bolts and push in the cork gasket so hopefully it touches the block. one side cork only has 1 bolt so its real important to push it in before you tighten that one.. Then m get some top bolts in the holes so the gasket is lined up and you can get the 3 8 mm chain cover lower bolts in and the one big short one that goes into the edge of the block.
I'm not sure If I said that some of the bosses on the pump were taller off the block than the factory pump ( I recall 1/16") I wondered how this would effect the belts tracking. First sign of this was when putting the alternator bracket on. With the lower block bolt in and the water pump mount there was a solid 1/8" gap ( thats what a 1/16" hump in the mid point would cause) at the top mount on the block. I tighten it up and the Aluminum bracket looked like it would bend but I didn't want to go all the way. I bet that's an expensive casting. if available or a junkyard hunt. I decided on washers for the top 2 holes. Still some bending of the bracket but not so much.
pretty disappointed in this flowkooler pump in this regard. I mean if a machine shop and get .05" thats sad.. Perhaps this pump goes on other engines. if that's the case there should be a note and washers.

 

well It's mostly back together. just need to put on the fan and shroud, upper hose and thermostat. no extra bolts.
Wanting to verify the harmonic balancer torque.. I've read 45 and that's about what turns over the engine but I have also read 75-90 ft lbs.
what about the torque for the 4 bolts on that crankshaft accessory pulley I've read 25-35.. i did 30?

I was quoted 1200$ for this job with me supplying the pump belts and hoses. But they would have added on something for the timing cover and chain.? and tensioner pully,

 

oh Crap!!! I put 3 gallons of fluid in of the 4 I drained. No leaks... thats the good news. With just 2 hose clamps, 8 bolts to go, (4 fan 2 thermostat, and 2 shroud) ! so close and then I cant get the fan bolts to go in!!!.. The flow kooler pump bolt pattern is larger that stock and my pully wont fit..

I feel sick. I'm hoping there is a pully with a larger pattern diameter?

 

you bought wrong pump, find the pulley for the year pump you bought and PRAY that its the same diameter and the same 2 serpentine belt slots. if not, you need to either downgrade or upgrade to the same years pulleys which may or may not be the right thing
you could also replace the pump again
Or try and enlarge the holes on the pulley as minimal as possible to put the bolts with washers.... or use 1-2 bolts you CAN get in, then find the center of the 2-3 other holes, and fill in the metal with a threaded insert or drill and tap. alll of this wouldnt be suitable in situ.. so removal. or new pump.

also WHAT did you put on your cork gaskets? if you used RTV, the whole things got to come off anyway. i am susipcious of your "sealer" you used

 

i used permatex right stuff grey everywhere and on the cork.

 

Unless you are in the middle of the desert and need to get out, don't do this.

 

Everyone has their opinion on sealers. I tend never to use it, unless it was used at the factory. There are places where three or more surfaces come together at one point, it's a good idea to put a dab in that area.

A gasket is designed to seal and so is sealer. Using them together can be a source for a future leak. If it was me, there is no way I would start over. I would handle that when the engine starts to leaks. When you put all those parts together the amount of sealer that squeezes out is the amount of sealer that is too much. Only a very slight amount should squeeze out. More is not better.

I really dislike cork gaskets, not certain what I would do if I had to use them.

Never use sealer on O rings. O rings are usually used by a joint that flexes. Locking them down with sealer is a sure sign it will leak in the future. Silicone grease is my go to prep O rings.

 

you need to remove everything anyway, so get the right water pump


You cant triple gasket a water pump/timing cover interface like that, youre going to guarantee it leaks or blows out

 

the newer clutch fans have 2 bolt patterns on them.. the 91 and 96 are same Napa part #. I picked one up .I will have to drill new holes in the pulley or elongate the old ones 1/8". or find a new or used one with the 2.12" bolt pattern.
believe me if you ever did this 460 pump you would do lots to avoid changing it out ever again.

Elongating the hole with a rat tail file wont be all that hard. its not a bad solution. it is centered by the .75 pilot on the pump. The clutch mounts on top. maybe 300 passes with a nice rat tail file.