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Had I read ALL the notes on page 46-1 before beginning, I would have known all about the shorting bars, ergo, less wasted time.
Also, yesterday was sunny and warm, today sunny and warmer. I killed twelve wasps with the swatter yesterday. Four more today. There are at least three more. But probably more than that. I think the nest is in the outside air intake area, RF fender.
Last edited by diggerrigger; Mar 20, 2026 at 03:01 PM.
Update, looking for a short to battery power in the wiring I found none. Confident that there is no issue with the rear "safing sensor", I replaced the freshly shampooed seats and panels.
I have new 167°C thermo fuses coming early in the coming week. I also have the recommended air bag simulator coming. I'll make the repair on the air bag diagnostic module then return everything to service except for the actual air bag which will be substituted with the simulator.
Wasps! So far I have killed twenty-three with at least one more to go. With their numbers deminished, I'm getting ready to **** off any that are remaining by blowing compressed air in towards the suspected lair
Some of the air bag electronic modules would burn out an internal thermal limiter if the air bags deployed
Some modules would be fine, others would need to be replaced after air bag deployment
I used to just replace them and never looked inside to see if I could fix one due to liability
+1 for finding a simulator
Generally, if the simulator fixes the light on issue, and the air bag ohms out okay, you need a new clockspring
I'm quite sure that the clock spring is good. It has been rechecked, the second time with the steering wheel turning lock to lock. I got a reading of 0.3 to 0.7 ohms while turning the wheel, engine running.
I don't have the nerve to test the air bag itself considering all the warnings not to. Not afraid. I just don't want to be shopping for a used air bag.
Checking airbag resistance (should be 2.2 ohms)
It's easy and painless but not in the pinpoint tests for code 22 anyway
Have you checked the system voltage like the diagnosis for code 22 wants?
These might help
Read these thoroughly
This is from ALLDATA which is free at my county library where I can print for free 25 pages a day
Thanks for all this. It's good to know what the voltages should be. I do know that the contacts in the rear sensor are open. Proved with the continuity testing. I'll run down this pin point test once I get the module repaired.
I wouldn't be surprised if I could get the same All Data deal at my library. Thanks for making me aware.
I made the repair on the ADM. Went really well, I thought. Reinstalled the ADM and installed the air bag simulator.
With this configuration I now get a code 32. If I remove the air bag simulator and plug in the air bag, I then get a code 34. Same thing happens if I bypass the clock spring by plugging in the air bag or simulator at the connector under the steering column.
The simulator is 2.2 ohms. I have read that the actual air bag is 1 ohm. I already mentioned I'm wary of putting an ohmmeter on it.
Generally you would use a solder suction gun and remove the thermal limiter and then solder another one in it's place
Your repair might not have worked
You got through the pinpoint tests, and it said to replace the module? I take it
Last edited by manicmechanic007; Mar 25, 2026 at 04:29 PM.
Generally you would use a solder suction gun and remove the thermal limiter and then solder another one in it's place
Your repair might not have worked
You got through the pinpoint tests, and it said to replace the module? I take it
I have not yet performed the code 22 pinpoint test. I will. Not because I'm looking for a code 22 remedy, but because, looking at the basic schematic, it appears that too high of voltage between 11 and 3 could be directly responsible for the thermal fuse opening in the first place.
Seems many tests for the different codes end with "replace the module".
The thermal fuse in the photo above is the new one I soldered in. It just appears to be factory. I left my solder sucker in the toolbox. These days I use the braided copper to remove the solder. My hands shake too bad to use the sucker. This is the side from which I unsoldered and resoldered.
You got through the pinpoint tests, and it said to replace the module? I take it
Well, the code 22 pinpoint test comes up good. 3.125v at 12.45v on the system. Test leads to "replace module". This also shoots down my bad resistor theory.
This project may have to be put on the back burner. A good module might fix it. If this truck were my driver I wouldn't mind doing what it takes to be right. But I'm probably selling it soon.
My driver has no air bag.
Oh, and I'm somewhere around twenty-five wasps. At least one more
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