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Howdy All, and forgive my lack of knowledge on this. I have a rolling chassis, 1976 F250 460/c6 still in the chassis. I want to get the engine running on the chassis, for I can determine it's condition before I install it in my other truck. The engine is complete. Can anyone explain how to start and run the engine with a push button ignition? I plan on running a fuel hose from a gas can to the mechanical fuel pump. Just not sure what to do about wiring. All the factory wiring is still connected to the engine, just no cab and cab wiring exists. Any help you can provide would be appreciated. Thank you kindly
Do you have the dura spark2 ignition module normally mounted to the inner drivers fender? If so make sure power can be supplied to it and the starter solenoid and it should be a go. There may be a few things to figure out based on what is there so pictures would help. You need fuel and spark and if you run it long enough a cooling system, I would at least want some water or anti freeze in the block.
Do you have the dura spark2 ignition module normally mounted to the inner drivers fender? If so make sure power can be supplied to it and the starter solenoid and it should be a go. There may be a few things to figure out based on what is there so pictures would help. You need fuel and spark and if you run it long enough a cooling system, I would at least want some water or anti freeze in the block.
I'm guessing the dura spark module is still there, but I'll know for sure tomorrow. I'll post pictures then. Thank you kindly for replying.
Here the picture I've referenced from time to time.
I'm terrible at explaining stuff but I'll try. The bottom 4 wire the factory harness between the Duraspark box & the coil / distributor. Run them as normal. Will need a 3 position ignition switch for the rest (off / run / start) & wire it in as shown. I've never bothered with a resistance wire as the picture shows, but I generally use a coil that wants 12v power all the time rather than just at start up rather than the 12v start & 6v run. You can easily cook a factory coil feeding it 12v all the time, then I'd recommend the resistance wire.
The big lugs of the solenoid are wired as normal. Battery positive to one side & the otjer to the starter. Battery negative grounds to the engine block.
A simple ignition switch can generally be found at the local auto parts store.
Here the picture I've referenced from time to time.
I'm terrible at explaining stuff but I'll try. The bottom 4 wire the factory harness between the Duraspark box & the coil / distributor. Run them as normal. Will need a 3 position ignition switch for the rest (off / run / start) & wire it in as shown. I've never bothered with a resistance wire as the picture shows, but I generally use a coil that wants 12v power all the time rather than just at start up rather than the 12v start & 6v run. You can easily cook a factory coil feeding it 12v all the time, then I'd recommend the resistance wire.
The big lugs of the solenoid are wired as normal. Battery positive to one side & the otjer to the starter. Battery negative grounds to the engine block.
A simple ignition switch can generally be found at the local auto parts store.
Thank you for the information. What would you suggest for a resistance wire exactly?
Ok, so we pulled the valve covers off today, and one of the left side pushrods was missing. We then removed the intake, and valley pan, for the push rod was laying in the valley with a pretty good bend in it, and cracks at the bend. I had a push rod off another 460 laying around, and installed it back into the valvetrain. Rotating the motor with a braker bar many times, and the push rod and valve train seems to move with no issues. Like I had said, I am not very knowledgeable about these motors, just trying to see if it is a runner. Should I be worried about this? Not sure what would have caused this. I tightened the rocker arm pretty snug, but not sure how tight it should be. I don' t want to give up on the engine. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you kindly
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