You will want to fix the seal across the cowl ASAP it has been replated motors have been hydro lock from water getting on the air filter and water running down the stud into the motor.
A cheap fix hit the big box hardware store for a garage door bottom seal. You can get 2 cowl seals from 1 door seal.

I used the screws that hold on the old seal but the washers from the door seal, remove the nails.
Used the same hole in the cowl to fasten the new seal and done. First few time closing the hood I heard something, it was the new seal hitting the hood.
Mine has been in place for 6 sixes and still looks like new.

If you have the factory air filter and it has the duct to the radiator support you may want to keep it as it will pull in cool air and not hot engine bay heat.
Dave ----

 

Here's the garage seal bottom seal I got from Walmart. It was very little money.

So for the air pump, save it, someone on here may need it inthe future if there truck has ti have one for their state inspection.

 

I looked on Fleabay for the seal and they sure were proud of them. I looked at LMC truck and while it wasn't cheap, it was cheaper, even with shipping, than other places. I put the original assembly back under the hood until I get a replacement. I've got a custom aftermarket unit until I can source a replacement factory style. I try to stay original on mechanical parts as metal costs money. Style and body parts sell cars. Stuff you can't see, costs money, and they wouldn't put it there if it wasn't needed. On the air cleaner assembly, I need to find another air duct as mine is full of holes. I snapped a few reference pictures yesterday before I started pulling parts.






Except for the air cleaner assembly, what you see is what I have. It's oily underneath (Gasp! A Ford leaking oil???? ) but the valve covers don't look to have ever been off. Since the photo was taken, I've removed the A.I.R. pump and I plan to cap where the hose goes just to clean things up a bit.

Indiana doesn't have emissions testing, at least not down here in the S.W. point, so if somebody wants to do a factory restoration and needs it, they're welcome to it.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the interior. There is no rear bench seat. The PO said it was rotten and went. I suspect the rear sliding window was left cracked open when it was parked, I've got a couple of front seats out of a late 90's Expedition I might put in. I may find another bench as there are a couple of local bone yards that might have one or I might make a sleeping/storage area back there. When I drove a truck in the early 70's, I often slept on a plank stretched across the seats.

On the bed, I'm torn. The gooseneck is set behind the axle. Set over the axle like normal, some trailers will hit the sleeper box on the front of the bed. I could take it and the chrome headache rack off, but that would change the looks of the truck. I sort of LIKE the looks as it's fairly unique and was well done from the conversion company. Considering the amount of work needed, I'll wait for now.

 

One question I have is, where is the radiator overflow hose ?
NAPA, etc, may have a air inlet hose, I think it was talked about recently...

 

It doesn't have one. Nor does it have an overflow tank. That was one thing I was looking for. It would normally be in the area of the second battery so I'm going to look at the boneyard to see if anything from that era is in there to get ideas. I'm not sure the factory location of the fuel filter as I'm pretty sure it wasn't on top of the engine due to vapor cavitation issues. It only has one tank and an aftermarket fuel pump.

I have a LOT to correct before it's road ready.

 

The radiator over flow hose went to the front hole, which is plugged on your's, side of the washer fluid tank.

Mine is a bottom feed, but yours was top, just make sure the end of the hose is blow the lowest level of coolant in that tank.

 

I wonder if his is also a bottom feed but with the battery where it is they could not hook the hose up?
I dont think I have see one feed through the top hole.

Mine is not a recovery tank it is an over flow catch tank.
It also does not have a way to fill it, or clean it, as it has no caps.
Dave ----

 

Yes, bottom feed maybe makes more sense. Notice I use a yellow cap plug to cap mine. The level in mine changes as it heats and cools as it should.

 

Mine is top feed, but not through the cap, through a separate hose hole moulded into the plastic. Top hole but the hose goes all the way to the bottom. No chance for leaks through a fitting since the entry is well above the hot fill level. Look for a recovery bottle from a 6 9l engine.

 

You can buy the hitches that slide. They are made for shortbed trucks with the same problem you have. Going down the road you slide the hitch forward. maneuvering around in the campground or whatever, you slide the hitch back for more room to the back of the cab.

 

While I want to keep the truck as original as possible, the "numbers matching" route is not one I want to follow. Being a conversion, it was modified from day one. Going through the paperwork I got with the truck, it may not have been sold until February 1987. It was sold to another owner in 1991 for $14,000.

Going to hit the boneyard tomorrow and see if anything of this vintage is in there. Usually 1995 to 2010, but you never know. Right now I'm in the assessment stage figuring out what needs attention. It's shoowing 37K on the clock and I believe it's been rolled over once and actually has 137K on the chassis.