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Bigger pan doesnt help with cooling as it takes longer to cool the extra fluid.
ZF5 is easier as no tunnel work needed or cooling lines need to be run. There is only a 1% increase in OD speed but has an extra granny gear that many dont use.
Im just waiting for my transmission fluid to get here. That mobil 1 synthetic is apparently hard to find around here. Should be here in a couple of hours. Sure hope this fixes it so I don't have to replace or rebuild the transmission.
Following Marks post about flushing the transmission, I had someone helping me and pumped the pan while idling in park. Took a little less than a minute but the truck is on a steep incline so its probably around a quart left in the pan. So that seems to be pumping about a gallon a minute cold. Im on a time crunch so im not able to check the flow rate when hot.
No change. I drove it 2 miles and wouldn't shift out of first. So I reckon its time for forscan. What cable do I need to buy to interface with my laptop? The data port is at the bottom of the passenger side dash. 1st gear did seem to have a little more pep to it so I would assume that its a electronic issue but still not sure
Having a little trouble figuring out which adapter to use. I think i should be fine with the obdlink ex but not sure if that is correct. The link said something about figuring out protocols by looking at the port if I read that correctly. Am I missing something?
While waiting for a way to get codes, inspect the solenoid pack connector on the pass side. Inspect the wires on the outside and if they look ok, unplug it and have a look at the pins. Since it's ok cold and acts up once hot, corrosion here could explain the issue. Use a mirror to look down inside the connector in the trans and trust me when I tell you; if you see corroded pins, just replace the pack. Been there done that, same symptoms. Never could clean it up. Swapped it out and been great for well over a decade.
Though written for the IDI diesel section, some basics here apply:
Pulled a P0603. Thats it but I had not driven it in a couple of days. I think im going to drive it tomorrow for a bit and after it starts, shut her down and pull codes again. I have a feeling that it is a mechanical issue at this point. Maybe I will get lucky and its just a stuck plunger or something like that.
Drove it cold, went a mile down the road at 45mph, had to stop for a vehicle to get out of the way and wouldn't shift out of first. It shifted fine the whole mile I drove it. No codes at all. Im lost at this point. I would think if it was a mechanical problem then it would do it all the time. I doubt very seriously that the transmission was up to normal operating temp at that point either. Any other ideas before I have to replace the transmission or rebuild it?
So on my way back I decided to play around with forscan. Set some PIDs. The blue is the first shift solenoid and the purple is the second solenoid. I slowed down to turn. Got down to about 30mph and the 2nd engaged. My speed dropped to under 20 mph as I turned and it shifted back into first. I manually shifted into second by letting off the accelerator and then pressed the accelerator. It did a limp shift into 4th skipping 3rd as it does. The 2nd solenoid disengaged then the transmission hiccuped, for lack of a better word. During the hiccup the 2nd solenoid engaged and then quickly disengaged. I have no idea what this all means. Are there times when both solenoids are engaged for more than a second or two? When I started off, the 1st solenoid stayed engaged for a good bit before it disengaged. I really hope this all makes sense to someone who is smarter than I am with this stuff.
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