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X2 .... etc ....
Where the NSS/switch to turn on the reverse lights, should be located. Switch might just need adjusted. Careful the 2 short screws strip out EASY.
When the arm comes off and you get mad and just cut the wires. Then truck will not start, unless you bypass and connect 2 wires.
Years ago I was replacing my broken shift collar and unknowingly broke that flag like tab and untill I found the fix here @ FTE , I wired toggle switches (I used two), to jump the two matching pairs of wires. I could then flip one for BU lights any time the key was on Accy or Run, and the other for starting the truck in any gear. I can do a "work around" if that new collar broke, like crawl into under, count and move trans rod to Drive, then start truck in Drive to get home or to a motel, etc. I realized that I could even just leave it in Drive for a few days .... just avoid need for reverse and park on level using P-brake ... and a chock block until fixed if need be.
So once in place, I left the switches in place as even BU lights could be handy as load or trailer hitching lighting with truck in park, etc.
Not a lot of current runs through those wires (just triggering starter solenoid or turning on two bulbs out back) and the two circuits are already fused.
Last edited by tbear853; Feb 18, 2026 at 11:36 AM.
Reason: Added dia-pic
Ok. I’ve decided to hit the license plate light. Found a nos housing and glass. But in removing the old one, there is no power at the cable. Key on, light switch pulled. Anything I’m overlooking? Thanks very much. After this the interior light.
Pretty sure you do not need the key on to get the lisence plate light on. Just pull the head light switch out to the park light or the park and headlights to be on position.
That’s what I assumed too. I believe it’s The same circuit as the tail lights and running lights, just thought I would try it with the key too but nothing. Guess I need to start chasing the wire and see where it connects into the harness or the rear light wires.
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