I have the brake issues where the pedal pulsates. So I need to do the brakes. There is lots of pads left. My questions are how do I know if I have an electric parking brake? I have a pedal not a switch, and that bore brush for cleaning the slide pin bore? And with the pads being newer looking is it worth trying to just resurface the rotors? I have only had the truck about 20k miles. It is a 2016 f150 lariat crewcab 4x4
Thanks

 

You have what is commonly called “warped” rotors. It’s not worth it to correct the symptoms by having them turned on a brake lathe.

What happens is that there are spots on the rotor that have varying degrees of pad material deposited on them. This creates spots that get significantly hotter when the brakes are applied, affecting the metallurgy, or grain of the metal, in the rotor. The problem will come back within a few hundred to thousand miles, if you turn them. Besides, good replacement rotors don’t cost much more than having them turned. Todays rotors are much less robust than those of decades ago.

At a minimum, put a new set of rotors on the front, then a full set of new ceramic brake pads all around. The OEM semi metallic pads are great for heavy loads, and towing, but are aggressive on the rotors. Cermaic brake pads will be just as good, quieter, and less prone to brown dust.

The premium offerings at the parts stores are usually pretty solid. I’d rate Napa highest. On my truck I used Raybestos, AC Delco gold is the same, made by Raybestos.

Your calipers should be good, unless you determine when you remove them that one is sticking, or hung up. Replacing a caliper is easier than messing with trying to fix it. I’d use Motorcraft calipers.

You can clean the slide bore with some brake parts cleaner spray, and a nylon 9mm/.38 bore brush. Use synthetic brake grease. Go ahead and buy a couple of new OEM Motorcraft slide pins. Makes one less trip if one is broken of corroded. If the truck has over 100k miles, get all new ones. Just makes things easier. Burp the air out of the boot when you put a freshly greased pin back in the caliper.

Remember to properly bed the brakes after you install them. This goes a long way towards reducing the potential for “warping” in the future.

 

Yes unfortunately JKBrad is fully correct, it's not worth your time to attempt to re-use the rotors or the pads here. some form of "heavy duty" rotors along with ceramic pads and proper bedding-in and you are good to go. It's also a job you can probably do yourself.

 

If you have a foot pedal you do not have an electric parking brake.

 

Thank you. So to sum it up. Front rotors and all new ceramic pads front and rear. New slide pins for the front calipers as the truck has 125000 miles. And that should fix this? And not an electric parking brake. I guess that makes a difference on the rear rotor?
I assume the calipers just push back, no special tools because it is not electric.
Thanks again

 

Yep, as Scott stated, if you have a foot pedal for a parking brake, there is no electric parking brake. You don't need special tools anyway, even with electric parking brakes, all you have to do is put it in brake service mode.

Yep, do all of the above, then bed the brakes in. 4-5 very hard stops from about 45 MPH to about 5 MPH. Find a long straight lightly traveled road, or do it late at night. You will braking as if it is a panic stop, you will feel the ABS pump kick in when you do it. After each stop, drive for about 45-60 seconds to allow the brakes to somewhat cool, then do it again. Each stop will transfer an even layer of brake pad material to the surface of the rotor and, for lack of a better word, bake it on. After the last stop, drive for about five minutes with little to no braking, You're now trying to get the rotor cooled as much as possible, with no further heating.

Now your brakes will be well bedded, and will stop very well. You will very likely never have a warped rotor issue again, unless you are the type who rides the pedal with your left foot, or regularly brakes very hard to a stop and holds the pedal on the red hot rotors the entire time you are stopped.

 

To add to your list, if that truck has 125k miles, 10 years old, it should have had the brake fluid flushed a few times already. Many are laxed about this. If your diggin in, I highly encourage this as part of your brake job. Plenty of videos online how to do all this. Good luck

 

Yes, this ^^^. I meant to mention that, but forgot.

Also, since we are on the subject of brakes, check recalls against your VIN to see if your truck was affected by the brake master cylinder recall. After you do your brakes, take it to the dealer and see if it is in the recall. If it is, then you get a brand new master cylinder and all new brake fluid. That's what I did.

The previous owner may have already had it done. If it's good, then go ahead and swap the fluid yourself.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/202...0V332-1472.PDF

 

Does that recall ever expire? And is there any way to check or just the dealer? Thanks

 

Recalls don’t expire, only TSBs do.

Try this.

https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls?utm_so...8aAsePEALw_wcB