hey guys i just picked up an 84 bronco from my neighbor thats been sitting for probably 20 yrs. i got it running but i cant start it from inside, only off of the solenoid. its a 4spd manual. on my 2002 f250 6spd i was able to get a plug in switch that bypasses the clutch interlock. is there one available for these older trucks? ive used google a bit and found out in 84 when hydraulics came in they had a switch but nothing saying how i could jump it or if a factory plug is available. thanks

 

You will have to get under the dash, and find the switch that is actuated be the clutch pedal. According to the diagram it should have two red/light blue wires going to it. You can cut these two red/blue wires and twist them together, or figure out how it works and permanently push or extend the switch so it makes all the time.

 

Congrats on your latest find.

Can you please clarify how you got the engine started via the starter relay (aka solenoid)? Did you connect battery power to the small S terminal? This mimics the normal start command via the ignition switch (and clutch interlock, if so equipped*) to energize the start relay.

Or did you simply connect a heavy jumper between the two big terminals? Big difference in how to troubleshoot, so please elaborate.

I'm asking because I'm wondering if the clutch interlock switch is really at fault. If the normal start command is not reaching the starter relay, that could also be a failed or misadjusted ignition switch.

Are you sure this vehicle even has a clutch interlock switch and associated wiring? Please see the following thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...h-mystery.html

It would appear the clutch interlock switch was introduced sometime during the 1984 production run. My '84 must have been close to the changeover point. It has the switch but no wiring.

If your Bronco has this switch and wiring, you'd have to fabricate your own jumper. Disconnect plug C190. Make a jumper with two male spade terminals and a short piece of wire. But first, I'd want to check for battery voltage at the S terminal while holding the key to start, with and without pressing the clutch pedal.

If the start command is good but the starter relay is not responding, be sure to get a quality replacement::
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...i-mean-it.html

 

sorry for the late reply. i didnt get any notifications. i jumped it using a screw driver between the small and large terminal. i crawled underneath the dash and saw the clutch switch but couldnt get my hands up there to pull a plug off. i got busy with other stuff and figured to wait for replies before jumping the gun.

 

I would not cut the wires if I could help it.
I would un-plug the wires from the switch and make a jumper wire to join the 2 wires together.
This way if you ever want to, and I dont know why you would, you can get a new switch and plug it in.

What are the plans for the truck, what motor / transmission?
Good luck
Dave ----

 

It's handy to bypass the clutch switch. Unless you are fearful of certain people who drive your truck and think you need to keep it. But if it quits on you in a bad spot in the road, you can put the transmission in 1st gear and let out on the clutch and crank the engine over to pull yourself out of danger. Or use the same method when it doesn't run to get it into the garage or off a trailer. You can't do it if you must push on the clutch for it to crank over.

And it's one less failure point.

 

Off road guys also jump it out so this can crank the motor to get out of trouble too.
I cant think of anyone driving any of my manual cars or trucks in all the years I have had them that did not push the clutch in when starting and none had a clutch switch.
Dave ----

 

by the looks of the connection a fuse might fit right in the plug to bypass the switch. the ignition comes on fine and turns the truck off fine just no starting.

its a 300ci with 4spd overdrive trans. the light duty top loader with a million different names. it seems to work fine but i already have a zf5 from a 1990 f250 4.9L truck. the only thing i may have to deal with is the zf5 interfering with the np208 shifter that sits up on the tunnel. really dont want to cut the carpet up.

it has 3.55 gears with LSD in the rear axle. i have a set of the 90s factory aluminum wheels (the rivet style, couldnt find the alcoas) and i have 31x10.5 BFG AT to put on. as it sits it has 30x9.50 so they should fit no problem.

i dont want to lift it or do anything to change it from the factory look. the grill is in bad shape. i found a nice chrome 1980 grill but after putting it on i didnt like it. i just scored a 86 chrome grill from the junkyard ill replace it with.

the hardest part of this will be getting it to pass CA smog. both cats are intact but the last time it tried it was bad.

 

Keep in mind the ignition switch is actually 4 separate poles (switches) in a common housing. Even if one pole works fine, it does not mean they all do. The pole which controls the ignition may be fine. The only fault may be with the pole controlling the starter circuit.


​​​​​​​Ooh, be careful. Passing CA emissions can be tough. Not sure about CA, but most places allow waivers if all equipment is still present and not disabled. You may be SOL if a previous owner joined the "Rip out all that pollution crap" club. Definitely get through the smog check before sinking lots of money elsewhere. No point in building an expensive yard ornament that can't be registered.

 

thanks. if the clutch bypass doesnt work ill be going to the ignition switch next. ive been dealing with CA smog for over 20yrs, there is no waivers except for a very few OBD2 exemptions for cars that have known factory issues. all the emissions equipment is there. i was lucky to have the last failed smog in the truck and it noted high idle, timing off and EGR not working along with high NoX. so ill start with the timing and hopefully that will fix the idle then go from there. this truck has the ignition module on the distributor like the newer trucks. worst part is the cost of CARB approved cats if i do need one.

 

Sounds like its a nice optioned (300 & stick & LSD) truck and looks like a good cleaning it will look nice again.
I like stock looking cars & trucks. The ZF5 or the M5OD is a good up grade and some motor mods if you can, I know you cant, if not too over the top.
The mods I did to my 81 F100 look factory and if you did not know the trucks would not pick them up.

I thought if the NOX was high it was a sign the ERG was not working but could be wrong as I have not followed smog that close.
I bet that 20 year old gas is not going to help
Sounds like a good plan
Dave ----

 

Look at the steering column where the turnsignal stalk goes in. If the hole in the column looks like a Tee, you have a tilt column. You tilt it by pushing the turn lever toward the dash. I bring all this up because the tilt columns had a piece that is famous for breaking. When it does, everything works except the key won't actuate the ignition switch far enough to go into the start position.

 

im going to get a new tank and maybe new sender. ive only run it off a dummy can in the engine bay. brakes went out right after getting it home. clutch hydraulics are still working!

it does have tilt and cruise. it does tilt. it was truly running when parked. i grew up riding in this thing with my neighbor kid friend. it is a little stiff to turn the key so im not sure what it is yet. the issue youre describing sounds like a pain in the *** to fix

 

Just look on youtube on how to change a Ford truck ignition switch actuator. It happens all the time, several videos on it.

 

Before clutch interlock switches I had several manual vehicles and I'd often if not always start them with the transmission in neutral. When I got my 86 I quickly discovered that the clutch needed to be fully depressed. If you don't know where neutral is then it could be a problem. I'm recently having an intermittent starter circuit failure. If I pump the clutch a couple times and hold the clutch down it starts. So cycling the pedal helps it connect. I'm going to be looking at it soon. I looked for replacement switches and haven't found one yet. Anybody know who sells them? Might not need one yet as it could be an adjustment or some contact cleaner. I do have tilt but if it's the broken piece you never can start till repaired. I'm leaning towards my issue being the CIS.