When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1993 7.3 IDI. I checked the glow plugs and they all checked out good. I put an injector return line kit in it to. It is still hard starting though. I was wondering if there are any other weak points in the fuel system for air intrusion. When it is 30 degrees it is glow plugs, turn over, glow plugs, turn over, and it usually starts. I have to do that up to 4 times depending on how cold it is under 30 degrees. I do not want to wear my batteries and starter out so I just want to fix the issue.
My experience has been if block heater is working good that if plugged in a couple of hours you do not even need glow plugs. Do as Olds64 suggest and check for air at fuel filter. If no air and if it starts with block heater and no glow plugs I would suggest going back over the GP system. How did you test it the first time, ohm meter, test light, amp meter?
Test light is a fair test but it will not tell you the whole story, only that they still have continunity. I prefer using an amp meter and looking for at least a 20 amp draw.
It has a clear stream of fuel coming out. I am now wondering if maybe my starting system is not running at full potential and is not spinning it over fast enough? It might be a mix of glow plugs and starting system. I will look into it some more when it gets warmer.
Amp meter for testing.
An amp meter like this makes a inexpensive test meter for glow plug systems. Make one lead long enough to go to a battery and the other to clamp on to the glow plug. Put a couple of vaccuum plugs over the terminals to prevent grounding to the engine.Needle will swing either direction so you do not need to worry about connecting it wrong.
If you also have reason to suspect the starter make sure your battery cables are in good condition. Here's a good thread on a failing starter (with video).
watch this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-starter.html
simple easy way to tell if your starter is on it's way out.
i never realized how bad that starter was until one day at a fuel station it refused to turn the engine over after firing up 5 minutes earlier.
Last edited by tjc transport; Jan 18, 2026 at 06:40 AM.
Is your idle solenoid working correctly? Mine doesn't and while it always fires immediately, it can take me 2 or three attempts to get it to run/idle by throttle alone when temperatures are below 35F.
Is your idle solenoid working correctly? Mine doesn't and while it always fires immediately, it can take me 2 or three attempts to get it to run/idle by throttle alone when temperatures are below 35F.
It high idles for a while when cold and then will go back into low so I think it is working.
My ‘91 7.3L is also ‘hard starting’ when temps drop below 40. Keep in mind, these are International Harvester engines(the farm tractor people), we had certain model IH engines that were hard starting when cold, others started no problem till temps were below 0.
My ‘91 7.3L is also ‘hard starting’ when temps drop below 40. Keep in mind, these are International Harvester engines(the farm tractor people), we had certain model IH engines that were hard starting when cold, others started no problem till temps were below 0.
Yes, the d282s were notorious hard starters. Are you over on the red power forum? I think I have seen a name like yours over there.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.