Rear Main
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New User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 10
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From: Pima, Az
Rear Main
Does anyone know if you have to drop the crank on a 460 in order to replace the rear main seal? 
I could look it up I suppose , but it is more fun this way.
Looking forward to yalls expert opion.
Thanks
S
nny
I could look it up I suppose , but it is more fun this way. Looking forward to yalls expert opion.
Thanks
S
nny
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 407
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Sonny,
If you don’t have a Haynes manual it would be a good investment to pick one up. It is only about $12 and fully details this procedure and virtually any other you undertake.
To answer your question, yes after all that is necessary to remove the oil pan, the rear crank bearing cap has to be removed and then all the others loosened enough to drop the crank about 3/32” in order to allow the top part of the seal to be removed – its a two part seal.
Good luck,
Mark
If you don’t have a Haynes manual it would be a good investment to pick one up. It is only about $12 and fully details this procedure and virtually any other you undertake.
To answer your question, yes after all that is necessary to remove the oil pan, the rear crank bearing cap has to be removed and then all the others loosened enough to drop the crank about 3/32” in order to allow the top part of the seal to be removed – its a two part seal.
Good luck,
Mark
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 966
Likes: 2
From: Crooked River Ranch, OR
I've removed them before without having to loosen the other main bearings.
Remove the rear-main cap, then carefully using a small brass drift, lightly tap on the upper seal while a friend slowly rotates the crank in the same direction by hand. Once the upper seal has moved a quarter inch or so you should be able to grab onto it with a needle-nose pliers and rotate it out of the block while your friend continues to rotate the crank. To install the new one just lube it with engine assembly-lube and rotate it into position as the crank is again rotated. Remember to leave one end sticking out one-eighth inch, then clean the ends of lube and put on a dab of RTV sealant so that both upper and lower seal-ends will stick together once the rear-main cap is reinstalled.
Deen
Remove the rear-main cap, then carefully using a small brass drift, lightly tap on the upper seal while a friend slowly rotates the crank in the same direction by hand. Once the upper seal has moved a quarter inch or so you should be able to grab onto it with a needle-nose pliers and rotate it out of the block while your friend continues to rotate the crank. To install the new one just lube it with engine assembly-lube and rotate it into position as the crank is again rotated. Remember to leave one end sticking out one-eighth inch, then clean the ends of lube and put on a dab of RTV sealant so that both upper and lower seal-ends will stick together once the rear-main cap is reinstalled.
Deen
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New User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 10
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From: Pima, Az
Thanks folks. I do have a manual on CD but so far haven't found the proper page. The engine has 115,000 miles on it so I have to decide whether to do it "mchild's" way and replace bearings (if I to have loosen them I'd rather replace them) while I'm at it, or "DeenHylton's" way then wait to rebuild it. She doesn't use oil just leaks it. I have stayed on top of the service end so the ol' engine is in good shape.
Thanks again
Sonny
Thanks again
Sonny
