Injector Removal
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2024
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As soon as you get back to it, give the deals a good squirt again. Let sit for 10-15 minutes and try again.
At some point they give up or break. It may not be a horrible idea to have a shop vac if you have one there. Once it starts coming up.” Vacuum around them to suck up any loose debris like dust and dirt!
At some point they give up or break. It may not be a horrible idea to have a shop vac if you have one there. Once it starts coming up.” Vacuum around them to suck up any loose debris like dust and dirt!
If the fuel rail breaks what are my options? I would prefer to be able to tootle around while saving for the new engine but its frustrating. It ran good until it just stopped. I've been through new plugs, wires, distributor, ignition module, MAF senor, Throttle Position Sensor, and a remanned ECU. Also both tanks were replaced, new sending units, new selector tank valve, new filter, and a new high pressure pump.
Are there aftermarket ECUs for the normal engines? I know even remanned ones do not always work.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2025
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If the fuel rail itself breaks, it’s a trip to a junkyard or car-part.com. Have you looked at the metal safety switch? That will stop it from starting also. Remanned computers can be defective, but they carry a warranty. Aftermarket computers are out there (stinger pimpx is one) but they have their own faults. If you don’t know how to time a vehicle or not the most computer savvy person, I would stick with remanned, if it’s bad especially on a stock vehicle.
Get a screwdriver for eye glasses, they are tiny. See if you can poke and a wiggle the o ring loose.
What got you trying to remove the injectors anyways? not running?
Edit: Skip the part about stock motor since you are wanting to build it.
Get a screwdriver for eye glasses, they are tiny. See if you can poke and a wiggle the o ring loose.
What got you trying to remove the injectors anyways? not running?
Edit: Skip the part about stock motor since you are wanting to build it.
Last edited by 90project5.0; Dec 31, 2025 at 10:51 AM.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2024
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If the fuel rail itself breaks, it’s a trip to a junkyard or car-part.com. Have you looked at the metal safety switch? That will stop it from starting also. Remanned computers can be defective, but they carry a warranty. Aftermarket computers are out there (stinger pimpx is one) but they have their own faults. If you don’t know how to time a vehicle or not the most computer savvy person, I would stick with remanned, if it’s bad especially on a stock vehicle.
Get a screwdriver for eye glasses, they are tiny. See if you can poke and a wiggle the o ring loose.
What got you trying to remove the injectors anyways? not running?
Edit: Skip the part about stock motor since you are wanting to build it.
Get a screwdriver for eye glasses, they are tiny. See if you can poke and a wiggle the o ring loose.
What got you trying to remove the injectors anyways? not running?
Edit: Skip the part about stock motor since you are wanting to build it.
Also has a new alternator, I did the upgrade, and a new starter. New battery was also used and recharged to make sure it wasn't a situation where it just wasn't getting enough to start.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2025
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Have you checked fuel pressure at the rail? Is the pump priming when you turn the key?
If you’re alternator was overcharging, it may have burned one of the fusible links or computer. You can ohm test the links to see if those are still good.
If you’re alternator was overcharging, it may have burned one of the fusible links or computer. You can ohm test the links to see if those are still good.
Last edited by 90project5.0; Dec 31, 2025 at 11:09 AM.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
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Yes, it primed when I turned the key, could hear it. And I was getting 40 PSI at the schrader valve. Where are the fusible links? I checked what I thought was them, but someone either taped them, or put rubber over them. I would have to cut into them to check. I bought a remanned computer, past warranty now, and replaced it. My old one I was unable to open as a few screws were so rusted we risked stripping them.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 1,873
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Attached to these wires.
they feel like a bulge in the casing.
You’re remanned didn’t come with a lifetime?
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Get a small pry bar under the thickest part and start prying, if you F up the rail, grab another. Plenty of small block ones around.
I have had the same issue on some old BMWs from the 80s, yes pintle caps will stick as will orings. I guess you could try a bit of heat from a heat gun on low or a hot air dryer
I have had the same issue on some old BMWs from the 80s, yes pintle caps will stick as will orings. I guess you could try a bit of heat from a heat gun on low or a hot air dryer
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Cross-Country
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The truck ran until it didn't so I assume it was 40 running. I was sitting comfortable at 70 mph until the problems started. Then it was 40 when I turned it over, I watched the gauge when my father turned the key. I did swap and relay and even bought a cheap replacement that worked.
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Cross-Country
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Unsure, I assumed it was only a year. It was via ebay. I will check the wires when I go over later today.
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Cross-Country
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The newer one? I will do that today. The old one, we couldn't even get some needle nose pliers to grip it enough to turn the bolts.