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I go to LMC for original size and quasi-quality that will work with our trucks. Recently I got grinder pits in a window. No problem, right, I'll order from LMC because I trust them. Used to. Glass comes and I go out to install the track on the bottom. I have to crimp together the U track that slides onto the bottom of the glass just to make it tight.
Then it occurs to me that it shouldn't be loose. I measure the oe glass. The LMCrap glass is 33% thinner than the oe glass. Can you believe that? My new window seals are designed for glass 33% thicker. I'm just so ... pissed. Cheap crap that they over-charge for. What sh...t.
Last edited by F-250 restorer; Dec 14, 2025 at 02:16 PM.
I read it wrong, you are talking about door glass I guess. I'm sorry.
Was mowing maybe 25 years ago, still had a gravel driveway, made one pass around a loop, and next pass saw was passenger window shattered, and it must have been 30 feet from my last pass at least. Ordered a used one from Bronco Grave Yard as I recall, well packed, had channel still on it, but it has one scuffed place looks like someone let a disc sander touch it, but it is small. For years glass chips fell out that door through rust holes onto the running board.
Last edited by tbear853; Dec 15, 2025 at 10:42 AM.
Dang dude with all the issues with your parts purchases here recentily, sounds you need to get away from your current parts suppliers and get some USED OEM stuff. Hang in there, better days are just a day away.
Dang dude with all the issues with your parts purchases here recentily, sounds you need to get away from your current parts suppliers and get some USED OEM stuff. Hang in there, better days are just a day away.
I'm sorry if I complain too much. I complain about LMC because I have delt with them for so many years. Now I know why they write zero description of the window glass. I popped over to Auto Metal Direct, and they have about a full page of description, noting that their door window glass is the same thickness as oem glass.
But I found a 76 dent in the j/y, and tomorrow I will zip over and remove the driver window if all is good, that is, if it has a window.
Last edited by F-250 restorer; Dec 16, 2025 at 09:47 AM.
IMO it is not complaining, it is making fellow Ford Truck Enthusiats more aware of reproduction products quality or lack of quality. Much like a consumer awareness watchdog.
Fool me once, shame on me. But thats it. You’ll never get a chance to fool me again. It’s just the way I am.
I spent thousands of dollars at Rock Auto until they screwed me once. 100% their fault. Did you ever notice there’s no one to call at rock auto? They made it so difficult to return the items at THEIR cost. I’ll never go through it again.
This is probably the wrong forum to bring this up, but I’ll never buy another Ford either. That’s all I’ve ever owned from age 17 to 50. They burned me good ONCE on a total lemon. $40,000 car that’s not worth its weight in scrap after six years. Never again. It doesn’t matter that I had a basically trouble free F150 for 25 years. I was burned out of 40K and I won’t take that chance again. At least not from them.
I’m sure most people here haven’t had the same problems I’ve had. So to each their own.
What I don't understand is that LMC sells the metal rail that slides over the bottom of the window. They would be/should be the first to realize that that rail now slips around freely, instead of clamping onto the glass and holding it firmly. They also sell the window seals that the windows slides up and down in. Are those designed for the oe thick glass or the thin glass LMCrap is selling?
When I finish this post I'm going to give them a call.
I called. They took the measurement of the glass thickness (oe .9 centimeter, LMC .59 c.) and said they would try to find me a window of oe thickness. I told them not to bother and that they should understand why I don't do business with them in the future.
Last edited by F-250 restorer; Dec 15, 2025 at 10:05 AM.
No luck at J/Y. Oh well.
Hey, I wanted to ask you guys. Pls look at these photos. The oe window crank mechanism has three countersunk nuts. The aftermarket ones need fender clip. I'm not sure the proper name of those clips. That means that the mechanism will sit back about 1/8". Do you think that is a problem?
I've has so many issues with a.m. parts, I'm afraid they have my photo on their websites. Ha ha.
That 1/8" set back will (maybe ?) "shorten" the shaft length sticking out the door panel for the window crank to attach, right? I have seen some window regulators riveted in place and some bolted in place. So not sure and never measured if the mounting way makes a difference.
Some of the low quality and/or inferior parts are results of cost cutting done because of consumer demand. Not all of it is just to increase profit.
I have seen customers that will buy the economy knock off version of an OE part to save $10.00 on a $500.00 item.
Not a huge fan of LMC but I do use them.
Like Rock Auto I assume everything I buy is non-returnable and I only buy what I am willing to suck it up and loose on.
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