Finally I'm at the re-install stage of my FE360 to FE390 swap. Vehicle is a 1975 F250 4x4 with C6 auto transmission.
I've overcome my hoist being too short and the early 60 block being slightly different in the motor mount area. 2 mounting holes versus 4 mounting holes.
All these issues are well known and documented; it just $uck$ figuring them out while you are knee deep in the swap.

Anyways engine is in the engine bay and I'm currently struggling a bit with getting the motor aligned to bellhousing and getting the motor mounts to align with the perch holes.

Should the transmission be disconnected from driveshaft and "pulled back" to allow the motor/flexplate to set into place easily? Then slide the transmission forward to connect torque converter to flex plate?
How about the motor mounts themselves- install block with the mounts attached or position block in proper location first and then squeeze in the motor mounts and bolt them to the block?
I beat myself up for about 2.5 hours today trying to get the block with motor mounts on into position with the tranny in place as well.

Appreciate any tips and advise.
Thanks in advance
Tbruz

 

when i swapped my engine, I had the transmission in place, but w/ the mount loosened. I brought the engine in and mated it w/ the bellhousing. Make sure your TC bolts and flexplate holes are lined up as you're doing this. I thought the TC would slide rearward a bit and then come forward to get the bolts thorough the flexplate holes, but was wrong. After it was all mated up, you can use your hoist to lift the engine enough to get the motor mounts in place. You can use longer bolts between the block and bellhousing in a couple of places to get things lined up and to get the dowel pins lined up. Once the longer bolts are in , put nuts on the back side so you can make some adjustments without disconnecting everything. If running fenderwell exit headers, you might want these in place first as there's no way you'll get them in once the motor is in.

 

egchewy - no headers, bone stock truck all around.
Did you not have the motor mounts on the block during your install?
I currently have them mounted on the block but thinking of removing them for next attempts.
Thanks
Tbruz

 

For some reason I recall having to remove them to gain clearance

 

Sorry, misremembered. Bolts come in from the rear and bolt into the block. I used longer bolts to help line things up when matting the engine to the bellhousing and replaced them once other bolts were in.

 

Your post here has me concerned. The torque converter will sit well back into the trans if you've engaged the pump with the converter properly. Failure to do it correctly will result in pump damage, and possibly even crank thrust bearing failure. If installed correctly, it will provide the clearance necessary to fit the engine and trans together, then pull the converter into the flexplate. When mating the converter to the flexplate, you will need to be mindful of the drain plug that needs to go through one of the larger holes in the flexplate. Many people have missed that detail and tightened the converter in a bind and caused all kinds of troubles.

 

Yeah, make sure that converter is seated. There should be three clicks when installing. One when you first push it into the case, turn it slowly and push until you get the second click, and then keep turning and pushing until you get the third. It should be recessed into the case at this point. You can then install the trans and pull the converter slightly forward to bolt it up to the flexplate.

 

After MANY colorful words and phrases I've gotten the new engine bolted onto the perches.
I ended up having to disconnect the trans crossmember at the frame, drop the driveshaft and using ratchet straps to evenly pull the transmission back about three inches.
Engine with motor mounts settled perfectly onto the perches.
Using the ratchet straps in the opposite direction helped pull the trans back into proper place- this was surprisingly easy, under 10 minutes, to put into the correct alignment and bolt down.
Flex plate was aligned to TC(drain plug as well), Bellhousing was fully attached to the block and then flex plate to torque converter nuts were attached; this ensures I didn't pull the TC out of its correct mated position.

I know I'm not done yet but I am pretty happy with myself and enjoying this small victory

 

Part 2: I'm an IDIOT
2 short days after enjoying my small victory of getting the engine finally settled and mated up to the transmission I've discovered I'm an idiot.
I've been slowly finishing off the engine assembly- exhaust, fuel lines, alt, etc etc etc. On target for initial start Tuesday night or Wednesday am
Today I came upon a part that should have already been installed- the worst part possible: the spacer plate that goes on the block behind the flex plate...................
I had seen it all along sitting there but had a mental block that it was the inspection cover for the bell housing- Nope!
Since the engine is mostly complete at this point I've decided to attack the opposite end and pull the transmission back.
Hoping I can just unbolt it and pull it back 4-5 inches enough to remove the flex plate and slip in the spacer plate.
I really don't want to totally remove the trans or to undo all the recent engine assembly progress.

Anyone ever done a flex plate R&R differently or am wasting my time trying this approach.
Thoughts/comments appreciated.
Tbruz

 

I am sorry to hear about your late discovery. As a free idea on big jobs like that in ther future, what about using a dry erase board with a list or the steps laid out and a check the box or check the list on reinstall. Yes takes time to make a list, but it might of reminded you of a important step.

I am sure your were just rattled from the trans install issues and were mentally sidetracked. Happens to us all, well me for sure. Hang in there.

 

bummer. that plate gets sandwiched between the block and the flex plate. Those bolts need to be torqued to spec in a specific pattern and w/ thread sealant as I believe they go into the oil passages, at least on a SBF. That block off plate also has the hole for your starter to mount to. Probably best to take the engine out and do it correctly. You have the front clip off already, so should be too much of an issue getting it out and in again.

 

That's a mistake that many people have made. Don't beat yourself up. Shouldn't be too difficult to pull the trans back and install it. At least you didn't do what I did a few weeks ago and realize when you're almost done with the job that you installed the head gasket upside down.

 

Thanks guys for the positive thoughts. Only those who have stepped into the "dumb sh-- line" can appreciate that feeling when you find that missed part just hanging around....
Front clip has been on for this entire job, only hood is removed.
I decided to de-install and lift engine as opposed to pulling the transmission.
Got it all done except the torquing of flex plate bolts 80 ft-lbs this morning in under 90 minutes.
My current issue is I'm a one(old) man deal and I need a bit of help locking down the crankshaft while torquing the bolts.
No buddies around today to keep going....everyone is hunting.
Thanks again- Im sure there will be another issue....
Tbruz

 

Many here have done things twice. On the bright side, I guarantee you'll never do it again and now you know it's done right!

 

I can identify. I have been going at it alone for as long as I can remember. It teaches you to be resourceful, that's for sure.