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I recently bought some 160/0 injectors for my truck, and was a tad disapointed in the performance. Even running jellibuilts etreme street tune, I felt as if the truck was kinda lathargic. For 700 bucks I could send the 160/0s in a have them install some 30 percent nozzels. I still need the ability to tow around 18 to 20k. As in Total combination wieght would be 9 for the truck plus about 18 with a loaded trailer putting the whole thing aroun d 25 to 27k. Im around 300 ft sea level and its not to hilly. This is a work truck, that said its really just heavy quick trips around town not 7 hour drives. I daily this truck aswell hence why Id like a tad bit more pep. I have a stock .84 ar turbo with a billet 5+5 wheel. 4 inch turbo back exhaust and a zf6. The truck has 4.30 gears. Do yall think id fight egts. Or do you guys think going to a 30 over nozzel would be a difference. i understand its a short stoke v8 and im not going to have low end power like a cummins, but I am looking for a little more pep and low end torque. Any help would be much appreciated.
Ok gotcha. Thank you for the advice man. I was contenplating on doing the turbo aswell futher down the road. I just kinda figured the injectors would give me the best
results first. Do you think Id see a semi noticable gain in spool rate and throttle response doing the kc stage 1 gen 3. Again thank you for the reply man
You’ll have gain from 1800rpm to redline. It spools fast, you can tell its doing work at 1600 for sure.
But you really dont want to focus on trying to tow or run below 1800rpm, the 2000-2500 is the sweet zone.
Now being a zf6, whats really nice is its fast enough if rpms dip to 1600-1700 on a shift when heavily loaded, it wont just fall on its face
Very good to know. Thank you so much for the idea.
Im thinking your probally right about going about it this way. Being that Im just seaching for a little more response and im just looking for a slight bump. Doing the turbo first, will either do one of 2 things. Give me what im looking for. Or already have me set up to do the 30 percent nozzel in the future.
2 questions if I might ask, will I need to do the Non ebpv pedestal.
Also about how much boost does the stage 1 gen 3 push. Just concered if head studds are neccesary.
Also just noticed in your bio, it states you have a gear vendors OD. Do those hold up to the power decent. I just purchased a used one myself, when im ready ill use it as a core and get a new one. It takes like 2000 grand off the price.
Last edited by 2000F-450_7.3ZF6; Nov 20, 2025 at 05:11 PM.
Is your icp and fuel pressure holding?
Not a huge gain for the for the money, but the %30 would net you a bit more power, likely about 25-30hp or so.
If it were myself, I'd probably put that $700 towards a KC gen 3 stage 1 turbo instead.
A Kc 3rd gen st 1 is $1390.
You're injectors are basically stock size.
But with a turbo, hpop ,blue spring fuel mod and ebpv delete, you should be fare better.
A Kc 3rd gen st 1 is $1390.
You're injectors are basically stock size.
But with a turbo, hpop ,blue spring fuel mod and ebpv delete, you should be fare better.
First off, a blue spring mod is uesless if he is already holding fuel pressure, and no change should be made there until fuel pressure is checked.
Hpop is not needed if he is holding icp.
His injectors are 20cc above stock size, so they are actually capable of a decent power gain.
An ebpv delete is zero power gain, it just solves a leaky pedestal and a stick valve if they occur, I can make 500hp with an ebpv still intact and functioning. They can be nice to leave and utalize as an exhaust brake.
Very good to know. Thank you so much for the idea.
Im thinking your probally right about going about it this way. Being that Im just seaching for a little more response and im just looking for a slight bump. Doing the turbo first, will either do one of 2 things. Give me what im looking for. Or already have me set up to do the 30 percent nozzel in the future.
2 questions if I might ask, will I need to do the Non ebpv pedestal.
Also about how much boost does the stage 1 gen 3 push. Just concered if head studds are neccesary.
Also just noticed in your bio, it states you have a gear vendors OD. Do those hold up to the power decent. I just purchased a used one myself, when im ready ill use it as a core and get a new one. It takes like 2000 grand off the price.
My GV has held up, though I only use it on empty highway. They are weakest backing a trailer, not allowed to back engaged and still a weak link not engaged.
Turbo will allow you to use the full capability across the board with 160/0, and honestly if you end up wanting more, I'd do a higher volume fuel pump and jump right to 200/30 and sell the 160/0. But 160/0 and the KC turbo makes for a very good tow setup.
KC turbo will come with a high flow outlet, so you could grab a non ebpv pedestal, unless you wanted to toss the ebpv outlet on it and then use it as an exhaust brake
First off, a blue spring mod is uesless if he is already holding fuel pressure, and no change should be made there until fuel pressure is checked.
Hpop is not needed if he is holding icp.
His injectors are 20cc above stock size, so they are actually capable of a decent power gain.
An ebpv delete is zero power gain, it just solves a leaky pedestal and a stick valve if they occur, I can make 500hp with an ebpv still intact and functioning. They can be nice to leave and utalize as an exhaust brake.
It's a Black spring in the riffraff kit, 70 psi and he didn't say if he is holding FP. A bigger HPOP is a supporting mod. 20cc upgrade is better than stock, yes, you're correct. No one said epbv delete adds ponies, but you're in there replacing the turbo, it's stupid not to do it. Not sure wtf you mean about 500hp with the ebpv still intact, that's irrelevant.
I think it was just an illistration saying the ebpv delete is superfulous to power gains as it doesnt contribute. You could make 500 with or without. Simple misunderstanding probally.
Ill probally go ahead and do it while im in there, Id rather get the high oil flow from the pedestal, and gut the valve itself for less restriction.
Thank you both for the advice, definelty worth deliberating on. ESwift you may of tonight, inspired me to spend some money I probally shouldn't spend lol. Just kidding. Youll do a lot for a little whistle sound lol.
ESwift my only concern with the 200/30's is im assuiming there hybrids. From what I know I thought those had a 5:1 icp to injection pressure ratio. Towing as heavy as I do, Id like to retain as much attomization as possible. Do you think the 30 overs would drop my pressure ration down so far as the hybrid would be more efficent. Any input.
200/30 do very well towing. Paper math shows a big difference from 7:1 to 5:1, but in real world use it isnt a big deal.
I tow heavy with my 200/30 and they run clean and cool, and make very good power. They do require more upgrades to use the potential though.
160/0 and a kc gen 3 will make a great tow setup that can generally do everything.
a 30 nozzle on the 160 may get you 25-30 more hp, but honestly just with the cost to re-nozzle for more power, thats where I generally say make a bigger jump if the 160/0 you have in it just dont give what you want.
FWIW, I have towed a lot with 160/0 too, and rarely felt underpowered when it was all dialed in.
No one said epbv delete adds ponies, but you're in there replacing the turbo, it's stupid not to do it. Not sure wtf you mean about 500hp with the ebpv still intact, that's irrelevant.
The relevance was that it is zero performance gain to delete it, and since he has a dedicated tow rig, using it as an exhaust brake may very well be more beneficial to him than deleting it...
Unless I missed it, I think you need to verify fuel pressure and ICP before buying anything. While I fully agree with the benefits of the gen3, I would suggest verifying that the truck is feeding the injectors correctly.