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I dont remember if mine had one or not as I did the job on New Years Eve many years ago.
I am pretty sure my motor is newer than the truck that is a 81 but what year I dont know
If you find the front seal starts to leak then I would say you need the slinger as it is to keep oil from hitting the seal directly from what I hear.
I was going to say when you get the 240 out see if it has one and use it.
I used a HF puller and installer when I did the cover gasket. I was trying not to drain the cooling system, leave the radiator in, but I could not get the puller in with the radiator in place
Being yours is on a stand should not be a problem.
Dave ----
Thanks Dave, yeah I’m going to pick up a puller/installer from HF tomorrow.
So do you recommend putting oil on the threads of the balancer bolt, or thread locker? Should I use thread locker on the bolts for the timing cover?
Also what is this and where does it go? I’m guessing it’s like timing marks? Can I paint it black or should it be left as is?
I did not use anything on the cover or crank bolts.
If you do I would use only blue and that might be too much if you have to take it apart down the road.
I dont think the factory used any locker on the bolts as I did not see any when I pulled it apart.
If you put oil on the crank bolt I would think it would make it easier to unscrew by itself and why I would not use oil on the crank bolt.
My truck has been on the road a few years since the cover gasket replace and I have not had any problems with bolts backing out.
That timing mark you can paint any color you want but the factory had it engine color, blue or gray on the later 300's.
It gets bolted to the right side of the motor using 2 of the timing cover bolts. Should be easy to tell what ones by holding the part up to the cover and see what bolt holes line up.
Before you get everything on the motor make sure you mark the timing pointer for TDC and the crank pulley so you can see them when you need to time the motor.
Once the motor is installed and everything bolted back on it is hard to get to the pointer.
If you dont have a dial back timing light also mark the 10* BTDC on the pointer.
Dave ----
So I got the timing cover and the harmonic balancer installed today. I didn’t bother with the oil slinger since I don’t have one and I read somewhere that Ford stopped using them at some point, and it seems like a lot of people don’t use them anyway, so I decided not to stress over it too much.
I put Permatex black Right Stuff on the engine side, spread it thin, and then put the gasket on, then put Right Stuff on the timing cover and put it on the engine and finger tightened the bolts. I used blue threadlocker on all of the timing cover bolts.
i then put the harmonic balancer on using the tool, once the timing cover was centered around the balancer snout, I snuggled up the bolts and removed the balancer using the tool. I wiped oil on the rubber part of the front seal. I waited about a half hour and then torqued the timing cover bolts to 17 ft lbs.
I then put the balancer back on, wiping a layer of bearing grease on the crankshaft snout as well as the inside of the balancer snout, but now that I think of it I didn’t wipe any lubricant on the outside of the balancer snout that contacts the front seal rubber- hopefully that will be okay. I didn’t torque the balancer bolt since it calls for 130 to 150 ft lbs and my torque wrench only goes up to 80, so I guess I need to get another one.
so when I do that I guess I will put blue threadlocker on the bolt.
The existing 240 that is still in the truck has an oil pan where the sump is sort of in the center.
The new motor has a pan where the sump is in the rear. I made a note after talking with the rebuilder that I’d want to reuse the old 240 center sump pan rather than the rear sump that came with the 300. I can’t remember exactly why, but it might have had something to do with clearance and the crossmember or I beams. However when I get under the truck to look, it definitely looks like the rear sump pan will fit and will clear the I beams and crossmember. There must have been some reason we decided I would need to use the center sump pan.
Im guessing that maybe the 300 came out of a 4wd or something, and that’s why the difference in pan styles?
So I’m thinking of just buying a new repop center sump pan, but I’m guessing I will need a different screen and pickup tube than what came in the 300 rear sump pan?
If so, what should I be looking for parts-wise? Should I buy a pickup tube and screen for a 66 240?
You might have wanted to use the 240 pan because you knew it fit the truck?
I know the 80's 4x2 trucks use a rear sump pan
If you looked it over and you think the rear pan will work then I would go with it.
The worst that could happen is when you go to drop the motor in the pan hits the cross member or beams and then you pop it back out and do a swap of the pans and pickup tubes and drop it back in.
Sometimes this happens, you look everything over and go with what you can see should work and something will come and bite you
It is something we all deal with in motor swaps.
Dave ----
I noticed the same thing about the oil pans. I'm putting a rebuilt 300, out of a '93, into my '66. I don't think it's going to be a problem. I pulled my 240 two weeks ago. One thing to check is your dip stick setup. My old 240 has it going into the block more forward than the '93, which is closer to the rear. My '93 has a long extension tube to reach the rear sump.
Slow progress, but going to install the new water pump and thermostat housing tomorrow. Picked up a new water pump and thermostat from Napa, and an older but new TRW thermostat housing from eBay. Trying to use made in USA parts if at all possible. I painted the water pump in old ford blue, and the thermostat housing in the same High temp VHT silver that I used for the manifolds.
Going to use the gaskets that came with the parts, rather than the Fel Pro gaskets that came with the set my engine builder provided.
So my manual says:
Water pump bolts torque to 15 - 20 ft lbs
Thermostat housing torque to 12 - 15 ft lbs
Should I use the blue thread locker on these bolts?
Should I use the black Permatex Right Stuff for the gaskets?
Also, the 180 thermostat I got doesn’t have a “jiggler” so should I drill a hole in it? If so, what size?
I was going to say the stat housing will need to take the screw in nipple and some are not the right size hole but see yours has the nipple.
I would not use any thread locker on the bolts but Anti-Seize as you dont want them rusting in the block and snapping off when you have to remove.
I also would use brush on gasket sealer or spray tack on the water pump & housing side only and maybe a little filum of grease on the gasket that goes to the block size.
This way when you have to remove the parts the bolts will come out (anti-seize) and the grease will let the gasket come off the block and stay on the part.
The pump you dont care as it might be turned in for a core but the stat housing you can now clean the gasket off on the bench and not leaning over the front of the truck.
On your stat the 180* is too cold as it should be 192*+/-
If too cold it will never get the temp up to boil out condensation and turn the oil on the top of the oil fill, cover and dip stick milky.
You also will not get any heat inside the truck when it is needed, get the right temp stat.
I would / do drill a 1/8" hole to let air pass when filling the cooling system and it will not hurt on the temp the motor runs at.
Make sure you place the hole at the top when installing it.
I dont use a TQ wrench on things like the pump, stat housing, oil pan, valve or side cover as I been doing this for a long time and you just feel it.
Now rod, main cap and head I do use a TQ wrench on.
But if that is what the book says then go for it.
Dave ----
Personally I prefer a colder thermostat. So I would be OK with the 180 degree.
You can do your own research, but a lot of articles are out there regarding older carb engines (non computer) using 180 thermostat. Emissions requirements often required higher temperature thermostats.
I also drill a air bleed hole in all thermostats, usually 3/32 inch.
If the thermostat drops down, while Installing it, the housing can crack when you tighten the bolts. And of course, don't install it backwards 😁.
Jim
Thanks guys, will pick up some anti-seize today and will be sure to use that on the water pump bolts and the thermostat housing bolts.
Two quick “what is it?” questions:
The original thermostat housing that was on the replacement 300 had this things screwed into it. What is it and what was it for? I assumed maybe some emissions stuff?
I picked up a new water neck that more closely resembles the one on the old 240.
Also, what is this gasket for? It was included in the gasket kit, but I have no idea what it is for
Ah thank you! That makes sense, and now that you mention it, I did pull that part off of the intake manifold. I was thinking of the old water neck that had a weird piece screwed into it that looked similar.
So since the truck is a 1966, i probably wouldnt need the vacuum tree, but maybe I’ll want to use it anyway since a dual MC and power booster is the next project on the list after the motor swap.
I am with Jim, vacuum tree and if oyu plan on power brakes then install it back in the manifold.
To "cap off" the ports I like to use short rubber hose with a screw or bolt in the end. The caps you buy at the parts store dry out and crack causing vacuum leaks.
I dont think I have seen a gasket like that ever
The box (Fel-Pro) list the gaskets on the label maybe yours does too?
Dave ----
