New Garage Ceiling
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From: Keweenaw Bay, MI
New Garage Ceiling
I am in the process of putting up a wood gridwork to put a ceiling in my garage so I can heat it. My plan is to use 1/8" hardboard (the same stuff pegboard is made of). I think it is about the cheapest and probably about the strongest. Has anyone out there done this and what suggestions might you have to offer?
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: rural SE Michigan
I would be concerned about sag with 1/8" hardboard over time, mostly due to moisture.
I can think of a couple other cost-effective measures if I have a bit more info such as span and dimensions of the trusses/ceiling joists (bottom chord) before calculating any kind of load.
Offhand, OSB comes to mind, if the price comes back down.
Will this be a fixed ceiling or are you planning to cut tiles out of masonite and set them in the wood grid you refer to?
Oldbones
I can think of a couple other cost-effective measures if I have a bit more info such as span and dimensions of the trusses/ceiling joists (bottom chord) before calculating any kind of load.
Offhand, OSB comes to mind, if the price comes back down.
Will this be a fixed ceiling or are you planning to cut tiles out of masonite and set them in the wood grid you refer to?
Oldbones
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From: rural SE Michigan
Larry,
You might be surprised at how fast and how much masonite can sag even 16" on center! I've seen it in houses where folks thought it would be a great cover-up for an ugly ceiling. I tangle with this stuff for a living and just when I think I've seen it all, something new and exciting appears in a remodel job.
Figuring your garage to be 20' wide; I still don't know what kind of trusses/rafters/ceiling joists you have and on what centers they are located.
Oldbones
You might be surprised at how fast and how much masonite can sag even 16" on center! I've seen it in houses where folks thought it would be a great cover-up for an ugly ceiling. I tangle with this stuff for a living and just when I think I've seen it all, something new and exciting appears in a remodel job.
Figuring your garage to be 20' wide; I still don't know what kind of trusses/rafters/ceiling joists you have and on what centers they are located.
Oldbones
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From: Keweenaw Bay, MI
I don't really care if there is a little bit of sag. By big concern is being able to keep heat in there. I am going to make the grid work as close as I can. The ceiling joists are on 36" centers but I am making the grid out of 2" x 2"s.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: USA
I would save a little more money for your project and put up something that would last and you could do proper insulation
Most local building codes require fire resistant sheet rock if the garage is heated !
Just mentioning this as a thought ,if you ever had a fire in your garage while working on your vehicles. and your insurance company did an inspection of the fire they might not pay claim
You want to use something that won't burn or absorb moisture
Rich
Most local building codes require fire resistant sheet rock if the garage is heated !
Just mentioning this as a thought ,if you ever had a fire in your garage while working on your vehicles. and your insurance company did an inspection of the fire they might not pay claim
You want to use something that won't burn or absorb moisture
Rich
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Have you considered regular 2'x4' ceiling tile? You can fasten them almost directly to the ceiling joists by using 1x4 or 1x3 wood stringers on a 2' spacing, use regular 2' T bars, and space the tiles using 3/4" blocks under them occasionally against the joists. I have seen a couple of ceilings done this way in some commercial spaces where they did not want to use a full drop ceiling because of space restrictions.
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From: Canyon Lake Texas
Cheep,cheep! My kinda ceiling!
I agree with tin, of all things. Seriously, look at sheet roofing, either ridged or corrugated. Its cheap, fast to install, won't sag, don't have to paint it, and will not support combustion. No R value, noisy, but really reflective, though, so it might "throw" heat back at you like that expensive foil stuff. I'd be sure to put a lot of screened vents in it, because it will form moisture when you turn on the heat and its frosty. A simple fan set up above it with an intake rigged to the garage might be a good idea, and would help cut down intense radiation of heat in summer. It could end up looking pretty trick. I've been in a few bars and trendy restaurants that hae it for ceilings.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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OSB is the way to go for walls. I don't see why it would not work for the ceiling. I sealed the joints with elastomeric caulk, primed, and rolled the paint. Good durable finish. I don't know what the building inspector in your locale will say though.
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From: Cloud USA
I like working with OSB better than drywall, But I think Drywall is the better choice for a garage. Dont forget to put of a vapor barrier. You can never have enough light in a garage. Atleast pull wire and put some boxes up for future lights and plugins are also handy on the cieling.
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From: Keweenaw Bay, MI
I already have four 48" double tube lights on the ceiling but have to move the boxes so they are accessable from inside rather that above the ceiling. I am not happy with the amount of light I get with them but, with a ceiling, if I paint it white or a light color it may reflect more light where I need it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Duluth, Mn.
A little suggestion for you guys. Drop three boxes on your ceiling, right in front of your bay. One centered in the bay and one about 5 ft on each side of it. Then go buy three halogen construction lights. Mount them with conduit to the ceiling.They get hot, so mount them down 8-10" from the ceiling and flip the switch.
Holy Cow, it's like working outside in the sun. My brother set his up like this, and it's amazing what great light it produces.
Holy Cow, it's like working outside in the sun. My brother set his up like this, and it's amazing what great light it produces.