I have been doing some research on chopping the top on my 65. I have not been able to get a clear answer on the windshield. I know that it is a little tricky because of the shape but I have seen curved windshields done before and they look good. Dose anybody have any information on this subject.

 

I would love to do my 65 also, all I have is a few pics of some that are done. I know you can get some custom glass shops to do it, but it'll cost ya big bucks.

 

The trick is to try and lay the window back so you don't have to cut the glass.
Since the glass is laminated, you cannot just score and snap off. You have to nibble the glass to change the shape. Unless you have the right equipment to grind it off, the glass shops will charge a pretty penny to do this for you.

 

I emailed a buddy of mine who does custom stuff, (chop tops, suicide doors, channeling, frenching, etc.), he said if the glass isn't tempered they can modify, grind, etc. or there are some glass shops that specialize in brand new custom windshields made to order, $$$$$$!

 

Ihave heard you can tape off what you want to keep with lots of duck tape and sand blast away what you dont need .
I have not done this or seen this but i have heard of it if any one knows this for sure ,I want to know also

 

Suggest going to magazine stand and see if the December 2003 issue of 'Classic Trucks' is still available. There is a part 1 article of 64 f100 showing steps on 'rooftop drop' page 64. January 2004, issue has part 2 article, not sure if it is in the magazine stand yet. Have not had time to read recent issue to find out if there will be additional parts.

Good luck,
dave

 

Attempted to edit prior post, waited too long. Anyhow, does not look like article discusses fitting the glass, but 'Auto Core' who apparently specialize in 'roofdrop tops' provided the material for the article. They have a web site, www.autocore.org. May want to review article and email them see if they can give you any suggestions or referrals. The article also provided a tele #.

good luck,
dave

 

A friend of mine has done half a dozen chopped windows with the sand blaster technique. He said the trick is to buy new glass so the laminate is still soft. Also, you are supposed to mount the glass right away or it is likely to crack. Apparently hold the glass vertically and blast side to side. I would like to practice on an old piece one of these days to see how it works.

 

I have read the article in the December Classic Trucks. I am waiting for January's to hit the stands here. I have heard some talk about the sand blasting technique and was thinking of trying it on an old piece of glass first. I have also thought about leaning the windshield back so that I would not have to cut the glass. I am just trying to put together some thoughts on what direction I want to take this project. I am leaning towards a pro street look.


No trailer queens in my garage

 

It is not all that complex! I do not have time to explain right now, but it's actually pretty easy & not too expensive to do. There is a method to it though, that gets "geometric". We've done several with compound curvatures, including a 55 chevy, Bel Air, 56 Ford Fairlane and 57 Ford Fairlane 300 2dr/HT.

As for the laminate getting rigid, alcohol or ether lit on fire after the 2 sided cut softens it right up. There's more. Got to go meet someone. later on this.

FBp

 

When setting up to make the cut we establish level along & across chassis so that floor of the cab is level at door sills.

We do this because side profiles of A & B Pillars are a trapezoidal polygon so are the front and rear profiles. Meaning B pillars lean forward, A pillars lean rearward and all pillars lean inward at top. Net end result is as roof comes down it gets larger dimensions. Farther it comes down bigger it gets.

By establishing level when we set the vehicle up to whack it, we have a constant , or a "benchmark" for reference at any time.
Since all angles are not equal we can't measure down them to get the right amount of cut to drop roof evenly. But by plumbing or establishing a vertical line @ 90 degrees to level, we can measure equally and evenly along anypoint of the roof to get an even, equal chop.

When replacing, we keep pinchwelds of w/s opening aligned & true. For 1 the gasket has to sit on them, and 2, glass is inflexible and kinks or staggers in a pinchweld cause big problems.

Work to bottom, bedding lip, at dashboars/cowl area. We use OEM pitch, or angle of A pillars. What we work at is putting the windshield opening back exactly as it was OEM Stock, except less height of chop as measured from level.

We get a large refrigerator box from local appliance outlet. Next cut two templates by scribing of the back of the W/S. Put the cardboard behind W/S and trace shape as 2 halves, an upper half and a lower half. Next using a sharp utility knife, cut out the 2 tepmlates. Position the bottom template in the windshield hole. Have a helper hold it, ot tape it in place with MASKING tape.

Next fit and position upper half in hole. Now tape 2 templates together securely so they dont shift. Next remove them and trace them on single piece of corrugated refrigerator box coardboard. Cut it out with utility knife, check fit it in the hole. If it's good to go take 3rd template, and place it against back of W/S, Flush the bottoms (remember we're working to the bottom) & match both sides. The top will be less than the height of the glass. it should be the same as the amount of the chop.

If it is correct, trace top line onto glass with a Sharpie, or other Permanent Magic Marker. If you are proficient with a stylus type glass cutter, clean front surface, lube properly, and make that cut along the sharpie trace line, from the otherside tho. Repeat this on the backside, but skip cleaning & lubrication, unless you're comfortable with following a scribed cutline as much as a sharpie trace line. Next the glass has to be snapped at cutlines.

once glass has been snapped and all that's holding the glass together is the vinyl laminate, saturate the cut with Methyl Alcohol, Coleman Stove fuel, or ether and light it while standing clear. When flame goes out, use utility knife, a razor knife, or a razor blade to cut the softened vinyl. Remove the cutoff.

If you havs access to a wet diamond dust sanding table, smooth up your cuts and round off the edges. check the fit, if good, do your finish work, and install you glass when you're ready for it.

If you are not comfortable, are unsure, or can not cut the glass yourself, there are two options. Use a Mobile Glass Technician on his own time, or get a glass works shop to do the cuts.

As for "laying the A pillar angle back, that does not work with compound curved glass. where the botton of the glass crosses the cowl, it is curved. As the glass rolls back, the rounded lower corners strike out and lift the bottom of the center, much like the rockers on a rocking chair lift the center of the seat when chair rocks back. As the bottom to the center lifts it gets harder and harder to seal and/or get leakproof & weather tight.

Reforning the opening to conform with the layed back angle and layed back glass is way too much work, IMHO. Doing glass as we do,& suggested is easiest way we've found yet.
We plan to include this method of glass fittment in our video on chopping a Slick 60s eFFy'.

Oh yeah, take your time, be extra patient, and don't get in a hurry, You should have success if you have skills in this area and type of work. Whew, that's a lot of typing!

FBp

 

The Classic trucks article will need a custom windshield installed. figgure about 2 to 3 grand for a winshield to be custom made.

Chopping a Slick correctly requires the roof to be cut into four sections.

The A pillars cannot move in or back as this changes the geometry of the base along the cowl. Hence making a windshield very expensive and a one off item. dont screw it up cuz it is not a returnable or readily replaceble item.

The front section of roof needs to move out to meet the A pillar which widens the cut. and back which will remove material from the cut. The base of the windshield does not change nor does the geometry so the sandblast method on the windshield will work fine. and a 20 buck windshield will do the trick. Ok maybe 120 for a new one but it still is not the expense of a 2 grand one which is ludicrous. *( remember the insurance co will only buy you a new stocker).

The B pillars are the basiclly the same shape where the chop is made so there is none of the pie cuts and bending as shown in the classic trucks article. The roof sections have to move out to meet the now narrower pillars and move forward again requiring trimming of the cut and a filler piece front to rear.

This also is conductive to an easy door trimming and modifications as there is no leaning or bending.

The classic trucks article is fine for a vehicle with a flat style windshield and straight up B pillars.

I have three spare roofs just for future chops if i ever get around to them LOL, a unibody, and 2 64 to 66 roofs.

This is not for the faint of heart to attempt as the level of commitment is permenant. Cant divorce your slick if you mess up.

Garbz

 

Another thing that was not mentioned in previous post is ALWAYS
chop the front posts an 1" to 1.5" more than the back--- or the top will look like it is higher in the front when you get done.
And when you qtr the top to meet the posts its much easier to replace the complete top with a trimmed spare top, and fill the 4 small sections instead of running 2 inch strips of metal front to back and side to side and trying to weld it with no warping.
Just my 2 cents

 

5.0L 44gpw,

Good Point. . . . .!

You are SO RIGHT about total 1 piece turret panel making world of difference. I been using 73-79 style Super & Crew Cab panels from trux that have rusted out in driprail X turret area. Lots of material in one of those roofs.

Also, that's a very Pretty "Uni" U have there!
FBp

 

Hey FORDBOYpete Id love to see that video when you get it put together !!!!!