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Intermittent high idle

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Old Sep 14, 2025 | 05:14 PM
  #1  
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Intermittent high idle

Hi all
i have a 1990 f150 with the 5.0, manual transmission, 4x4.
it is stock except that I have removed the vacuum pump (because it seized) and capped the hard vacuum line that runs parallel to the side of the engine.

i have been having issues with an intermittent high idle (started quite some time after I removed the vacuum pump)
i have thrown the parts cannon at it:
- idle reset procedure
- new ICV
- remanufactured ECU
- new EGR position sensor (because there was an OBD code)

next I’m looking at MAP sensor and TPS?

there are no obvious vacuum leaks and I figure if there were, I’d have an always inconsistent idle. Right now it is either perfect at 600rpm for several trips, or it starts rising up to 2000rpm (like every 4th or 5th time I start the truck). I can usually stop and restart the truck and it’s fine for a while.

it happens with a warm truck usually.

any ideas from all y’all?
 
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Old Sep 15, 2025 | 05:21 AM
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I have a 89 300 EFI so just speaking from my experiences. Have you put a voltmeter on the TPS leads and verified that it’s still in range when acting up? Idle voltage should always be around 1 volt… and these things are hyper sensitive. A tenth of a volt makes a difference.
Also check your timing when acting normal vs acting up. Almost sounds like maybe the ignition control is over advancing the timing when it gets warmer.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2025 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by madfrog71
any ideas from all y’all?
Run the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) test and Stored Code display. You can use a paperclip to count the flashes from the Check Engine Light (CEL) or invest in a very capable code reader such as the Innova 3145. If you get the System Pass Code (11) for both tests, then move onto the Key On Engine Running (KOER) tests.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2025 | 09:18 AM
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I would first check the throttle linkage and the condition of the throttle plate (how dirty is it? And is it binding up?)
Next
I would be all for checking the actual TP voltage and watching the voltage sweep as you move the throttle plate
RLA advice good and straight out of the book
But
Some TP's pass a self test just fine but are faulty
But, agree, do the self tests if you have a star tester or equivalent
Quick and easy and if you get a TP code, you need no further testing most likely
Time IS money
 
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Old Sep 18, 2025 | 09:19 AM
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Thanks for the advice. I’ll run a KOEO test this weekend and report back.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2025 | 09:53 AM
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High idle usually means you got additional air past the throttle. I would smoke test the engine and make certain the purge control valve is shut.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2025 | 04:20 PM
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Smoke machine ordered ($50? If I had known they were that cheap I would have ordered one long ago)
so this weekend:
- KOEO
- Smoke test
- measure TPS voltage for normal idle and if I can get it to happen also at high idle
 
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Old Sep 19, 2025 | 08:00 PM
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I know this sounds crazy but I had the same issue. It turns out the computer freaked out because the connector for the thermactor solenoids wiggled itself off and for some reason the computer decided to bump up the idle to 2000 rpm occasionally. I doubt that's the issue but it was something that happened to me. I would also check the TPS voltage. I made a connector out of an old one and some wire with solder at the end of it. It plugs into the tps and then you connect the wires to the engine harness and then measure on the exposed wires. It's also possible the IAC got stuck in the open position. Just my $.02.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 01:26 PM
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Got code 31 (C). which has an explanation on the book only for cars, or for truck except V8. So???
 
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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 02:21 PM
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Smoke test showed a leak at the IAC spacer, the egr had smoke coming out of the underside, and the vapor canister was smoking.

I’m gonna assume the vapor canister is fine, replace the EGR and get a gasket for the IAC spacer.

what do y’all think?

i checked the thermactor solenoid connectors and they seem to be connected.
didn’t see a good way to read the TPS
 
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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by madfrog71
Got code 31 (C). which has an explanation on the book only for cars, or for truck except V8. So???
Code 31 (C): EVP Circuit intermittently below minimum voltage.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by madfrog71
didn’t see a good way to read the TPS
Use a DVM set to DC voltage, back probe the TPS connector or use pins. Turn the key to the Run position. Verify the TPS output voltage is between 0.6 to 1 VDC. Anything in between is fine. Then watch the meter and slowly open the throttle to wide open, the voltage should smoothly increase to near 5VDC. Anything above ~4.5 is usually good. Anything less at wide open throttle is a sign of a bad TPS.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rla2005
Code 31 (C): EVP Circuit intermittently below minimum voltage.
since I just replaced the EVP sensor, it may be a bad EGR, right?
i bought a new one, along with a 1-1/16” wrench and soaked the nut in PB blaster. We’ll
see if it wants to get loose tomorrow.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 04:43 PM
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If the EGR diaphragm is ruptured, it failed the smoke test, it can contribute to your Code 31.

Since you stated it was a Stored Code you need to clear that code after replacing the EVP.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2025 | 06:05 PM
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Belated update: I replaced the EGR (took a couple of days soaking in liquid wrench and a blow torch) and the problem seems to be gone

thanks for all the help!
 
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