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One thing to be aware of is the quality of the ohm meter you are using. The low-price Chinese ones have no ability to zero the meter and on the lowest setting will read 1 to 2 ohms because of the built in resistance. On those you need to connect the leads together and note the resistance then subtract that from the reading you get when testing the circuit. otherwise, you get a reading much higher than it actually is.
Times 1000. Told him that in one of his other threads on the same topic and he said he was going to get a new meter since touching the leads together showed 2 ohms, I believe it was. You can't even read scant ohms correctly with such a meter. Not sure if he did or not but sounds like not. Also REALLY helps when people have one thread that they use and not start 4 different threads on the same topic. That way others know what has already been discussed and then can build upon what was known before and not keep rehashing the same stuff. Drives me crazy. Here's three others on the same basic topic - trying to get his horn working. It happens far too often. If you can't find your older thread search for it. I did and can see them all. Try it going forward, please.
Times 1000. Told him that in one of his other threads on the same topic and he said he was going to get a new meter since touching the leads together showed 2 ohms, I believe it was. You can't even read scant ohms correctly with such a meter. Not sure if he did or not but sounds like not. Also REALLY helps when people have one thread that they use and not start 4 different threads on the same topic. That way others know what has already been discussed and then can build upon what was known before and not keep rehashing the same stuff. Drives me crazy. Here's three others on the same basic topic - trying to get his horn working. It happens far too often. If you can't find your older thread search for it. I did and can see them all. Try it going forward, please.
I apologize for multiple posts, my mistake. I should have known better. I will take your advice for the future. I understand how this makes it more difficult. It was not my intent to drive anybody crazy or upset them. I have asked the Moderators to combine these posts. I did purchase a new Klein meter this morning. Thanks.
Don't worry, I'm only a few short steps from crazy so it's not a long trip. Not upset either - if I were I'd probably say something that would make @ibuzzard blush - and he doesn't turn red easily...
Using new Klein meter. The leads 0 out when held together. Not sure of what to make of these readings, cannot get consistent readings. Using the tone setting, I have continuity all the way from horn relay plug to the top horn brush. Using the 2k setting i can get some good readings and not so good readings. If I move the steering wheel readings fluctuate
.
Slight variations when turning the steering wheel can happen if your contact points are not entirely clean and have some oxides or slight corrosion on them. But you are still getting some rather tall readings for what it is in my opinion. Did you test just the brushes out of the circuit to see what readings you get with them standalone? Might be worth giving them a bit of a flex as you test them to make sure that doesn't change the readings. Since it would take 4 hands to do that you could probably attach the leads to the brush ends using a clip of some sort. Binder clips, alligator clips of adequate size, etc. If those test good/great then with the top brush removed you could probe down in its hole to see what reading you get there as well. You're in test/fix mode now so divide and conquer.
Pull the brush up out of its holder. It should come freely, if it doesn't, that "IS" the problem. Test it separately, and post a pickure of it. It should float freely in the holder.
If it isn't free it will never make proper contact with the horn button.
Pull the brush up out of its holder. It should come freely, if it doesn't, that "IS" the problem. Test it separately, and post a pickure of it. It should float freely in the holder.
If it isn't free it will never make proper contact with the horn button.
Next with that brush out of the circuit try to get your probe of one lead down to the bottom of the hole it sits in while the other lead is in the horn relay connector blue/yellow wire socket and see what you get there. Should be able to turn the wheel some like before and see if you get consistent readings or if they vary some. I have probes that I can loosen a retaining knurl and extend the center of the probe up to a couple of inches. Handy to have for tests into deeper sockets like that.
Next with that brush out of the circuit try to get your probe of one lead down to the bottom of the hole it sits in while the other lead is in the horn relay connector blue/yellow wire socket and see what you get there. Should be able to turn the wheel some like before and see if you get consistent readings or if they vary some. I have probes that I can loosen a retaining knurl and extend the center of the probe up to a couple of inches. Handy to have for tests into deeper sockets like that.
Getting closer to a working horn button. Installed the missing second horn brush under the horn button today. Still no horn sounding when steering wheel button is pressed. Installed jumper across rag joint, jumpered 2 wires at horn relay and could hear horn relay clicking. Removed horn relay from core support and cleaned core support and horn relay bracket of rust. Remounted horn relay and jumpered 2 wires again horn now sounds. I only have passenger side horn, driver side is missing but wire tests good. Test light lights up when 2 wires at relay are jumpered. Yes, the rag joint and the steering column piece still needs replaced. Another days battle.
Still no horn sound when steering wheel button is pressed. If I remove steering wheel button and touch horn brush with 12v, horn will sound, just not while steering wheel horn button is installed and pressed. I gotta be getting close. Input is always welcome. Thanks.
If I understand the horn circuit correctly, IF...
The brush at the steering wheel should already have 12v and cause the horn to blow, IF a ground path from brush to steering shaft is provided...
So, we have power to the relay. But no power out, to the brush. I would suspect the relay if all wiring to the relay is correct and not swapped anywhere. I would definitely check wiring first! Maybe slide the plug in, half off the relay and see if you have 12v to the relay, and 12v heading to the brush. If power goes in the relay but not out, buy a replacement relay.
Last edited by FarmMotorSports; Oct 14, 2025 at 07:31 PM.
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