When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hmmm, that drip is on ring of driveshaft towards front? Now why would the rear end oil go forward thru the U Joint and drip out the front? No I was looking at it wrong... I see it is coming out ft of rear end, Yep prolly pinion seal...
It's the pinion seal. The original is probably a felt seal which may or may not be difficult to find. It's really only an issue when the truck sits. The spiral groove in the yoke and the oil slinger prevent any significant loss when the truck is in motion. I'd place a pan under it when it's sitting and search for a part number for that seal.
A couple of questions after looking at the manual.
It says to Torque the pinion nut to 200-250ftlbs. I don't have a big enough torque wrench for that nor am I sure I can torque it that tightly as I don't have a breaker bar long enough to get that much torque. It says the preload should be 12-16inch/pnds. Is there a mechanic's trick to do this properly?
I assume inch pounds is measured with the wheels in the air and rotating the pinion nut clockwise. Tighten pinion nut until there is just enough resistance to trip the torque wrench?
I assume the pinion gear thrust washers are inside the pumpkin so I don't need to worry about that.
You can make a tool to hold the yoke by taking a 2-ft (or more) piece of 1/8" thick, 4"-wide steel, cutting a hole at one end large enough for the socket to fir thru, and with holes that match the yoke's holes for the u-joint. With the truck on the ground, attach the steel to the yoke with bolts, and rotate the pinion until the steel hits the ground. Then you can tighten the pinion nut. You really want a 3/4" drive and 6-point socket for this. You can lay on your back and use both hands, with your feet braced against the frame to get the torque needed.
Steve's tip is a good one but you may end up tightening more than original due to bearing wear, etc.
The spec for pinion preload is usually for a diff on the bench, no axles in place. Not much you can do about without a lot of extra work.
Here's a pinion wrench I bought one time for the same job. It worked out pretty well.
It was $30 back when I bought 10 years ago. But turned out to be well worth it.
Reading the review and comments on the linked page above they reminded me of something. This wrench face if I recall has 5/16 holes. But those holes would not exactly line up with the holes in the pinion flange. They said they then used 1/4" bolts and then the holes lined up. I believe I discovered the same thing. So if you order this just keep in mind that you may need to switch to a smaller diameter bolt when bolting on to the flange.
Replace the seal and then use a 1/2" impact and tighten it up. There isn't a crush sleeve so nothing is going to change adjustment wise.
I don't put anything on the yoke except my hand and tighten with the impact. Tires on the ground and nothing is going anywhere and no need to make a holding fixture.
30 min job.
note:
the pinion wrench is for when you have to crush the sleeve when setting up the pinion on a unit that utilizes a crush sleeve.
even on a diff that utilizes a crush sleeve I still do it the same way as above just don't go crazy over tightening the pinion nut. Otherwise you then change the pinion setting.
It sounds like I need to mark where the nut was and use an impact wrench to get it back in place. I should have the seal Thursday and hopefully try then.
Do I need to drain the oil or just move quickly getting the new seal in ?!
It sounds like I need to mark where the nut was and use an impact wrench to get it back in place. I should have the seal Thursday and hopefully try then.
Do I need to stain the oil or just move quickly getting the new seal in ?!
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
