When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
01’ Screw 5.4. Anyone ever experience a high idle only when the AC is on? Idles and runs perfect when ac is off. It recently just started doing this so I replaced the IAC with a motorcraft unit with no change. In gear with ac on it will run up to 35mph without even touching the throttle. I’ve been just turning it off when coming up to stop lights. Where should I look? Is the TPS capable of this?
Check the codes, yes, a TP malfunction or a wiring short is my guess
Also, those cruise cables used to fray, maybe it is sticking inside the cable housing
Check the codes, yes, a TP malfunction or a wiring short is my guess
Also, those cruise cables used to fray, maybe it is sticking inside the cable housing
Thanks for the reply. No CEL and no codes pending. I’ll try pulling the cruise cable off and take it for a drive, see it makes a difference. I have since ordered a new MC TPS just incase. What’s bizarre is if you’re sitting in park and turn on the AC the idle spikes for a micro second like it’s supposed to and everything’s good. It’s when you put it in gear and accelerate is when the rpm’s don’t want to come back down until you come to a stop for approx 20 seconds. I took a short video but it won’t let me post it
You could unplug the IAC valve while the idle is high and see if idle RPM drop. If it does that would be a sign of the PCM commanding it high for some reason. If it doesn't that might be a sign of something else stuck, letting more air in.
Might not be conclusive but it might at least take the main idle speed control component, the IACV, out of the picture. If the PCM is opening the IACV that would be a different path to follow than the TPS, I think.
If it only happens in gear I'd guess that you'll have to use the parking brake or chock the wheels or lift the back wheels to do that. Good luck.
sitting in park and turn on the AC the idle spikes for a micro second like it’s supposed to and everything’s good.
It’s when you put it in gear and accelerate is when the rpm’s don’t want to come back down until you come to a stop for approx 20 seconds.
Good luck. Could be a day of twenty second inspections and putting it in Drive. That seems to be what you're saying - put it in drive, idle speed rises, put it in park, idle speed drops.
Or are you saying that it can stay in drive, as long as you're stopped, before it drops? The clues aren't really clear.
Any chance your foot is on the brake pedal when the idle speed goes up? Could be a bad brake booster. Some people put their foot on the brake pedal right as they shift to Drive. Easy to check.
Good luck. Could be a day of twenty second inspections and putting it in Drive. That seems to be what you're saying - put it in drive, idle speed rises, put it in park, idle speed drops.
Or are you saying that it can stay in drive, as long as you're stopped, before it drops? The clues aren't really clear.
Any chance your foot is on the brake pedal when the idle speed goes up? Could be a bad brake booster. Some people put their foot on the brake pedal right as they shift to Drive. Easy to check.
Everything works as it should including the idle speed until you accelerate up to speed. (In park or in drive) The problem is the rpm’s take far to long to come down and the truck will just keep accelerating even though my foot is off the gas. Stopping it you really have to step on the brakes. Now if I turn the AC to off there’s no issues stopping or idling. Once the rpm’s are elevated is when there’s an issue. I really need to post a video
I think that 01 uses an electrically controlled vacuum actuator for some of the flow control doors in the system. Not the blend door but one or more of the defrost or floor/panel controls, or fresh air versus cabin air. Like Max AC uses only cabin air. Might be worth checking those. Maybe it is a leak caused when the valve is actuated.
Check if the problem happens on all of the settings that used cooled air or only some of them. Might be a clue. Maybe a leaking vacuum hose after the actuator. Don't really know the details even though I have the same system.
Edited - the problem might just be coincidental to AC. Many of the other settings also use the AC compressor. I have the Shop Manual that tells which doors have full vacuum and which don't for each setting, if you come back with more clues. Good luck.
Could be a frayed throttle cable too
Check the fuel trims to see if it's a vacuum leak or not
Check the TP PID back and forth as you move the throttle
Should start out around .8 volts at closed throttle and go up to around 4.5 volts at WOT
I think that 01 uses an electrically controlled vacuum actuator for some of the flow control doors in the system. Not the blend door but one or more of the defrost or floor/panel controls, or fresh air versus cabin air. Like Max AC uses only cabin air. Might be worth checking those. Maybe it is a leak caused when the valve is actuated.
Check if the problem happens on all of the settings that used cooled air or only some of them. Might be a clue. Maybe a leaking vacuum hose after the actuator. Don't really know the details even though I have the same system.
Edited - the problem might just be coincidental to AC. Many of the other settings also use the AC compressor. I have the Shop Manual that tells which doors have full vacuum and which don't for each setting, if you come back with more clues. Good luck.
Ok. I just got back from a short drive to town. The only settings it acts up on are AC, Max AC and defrost. Also to note the trans shifts a little weird too, especially when coming to a stop. You can feel every gear downshifting while braking. Turn dial from AC to panel and all is fine with how it shifts up and down.
The only difference between AC and Panel, for 2003, is that the AC compressor does not operate. The two vacuum motors experience the same vacuum settings.
And the AC compressor does operate for other settings besides Max AC, AC, and Defrost. Like Panel/Floor and Floor/Defrost.
So there's no obvious common element for the settings with the problem. Stumped.
I'd still try disconnecting the IACV. Break the problem down in to parts, vacuum leak or PCM control or sticking throttle cable. You could also plug the vacuum line at the vacuum bottle to see if it's a vacuum leak through the controls. Take the snow shield off of the throttle bell crank and force it closed by hand. That's three separate possible reasons for a high idle.
I'd still try disconnecting the IACV. Break the problem down in to parts, vacuum leak or PCM control or sticking throttle cable. You could also plug the vacuum line at the vacuum bottle to see if it's a vacuum leak through the controls. Take the snow shield off of the throttle bell crank and force it closed by hand. That's three separate possible reasons for a high idle.
Pulled the engine cover off and let it idle and listened for possible leaks. This one particular hose that goes to the throttlebody to a vacuum solenoid is almost collapsed when running.
I'd still try disconnecting the IACV. Break the problem down in to parts, vacuum leak or PCM control or sticking throttle cable. You could also plug the vacuum line at the vacuum bottle to see if it's a vacuum leak through the controls. Take the snow shield off of the throttle bell crank and force it closed by hand. That's three separate possible reasons for a high idle.
Just replaced the vacuum hose I have circled with no change. I’ll try what you suggested next
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.