I went ahead and ordered the IPR block off tool and pressure tester yesterday so I can pressure test the system and see if there’s any leaks I’m missing or if the ipr is causing the issues. Those tools will be at my house today and tomorrow. Will post back upon testing.

 

Good evening all, got off work today and deadhead tested the pump. Tried it with the ipr in with 12v to solenoid and no pressure, the high pressure gauge didn’t even try to go up. I then tested with the ipr block off tool installed, again tested the HPOP and still nada, no movement out of the gauge whatsoever. I think it’s time for a new HPOP, any recommendations on HPOP? Also is my suspicion correct that the HPOP is dead?

 

As long as you were getting low pressure oil to the HPOP, no pressure with the HPOP dead-headed at both outlet ports and with the IPR blocked off with the block-off tool in place of the IPR means the HPOP isn't making pressure. Usually that means the HPOP is dead but a drive gear that is loose and spinning on the HPOP shaft can also cause this. Generally that is seen more if somebody had just put in a new HPOP and didn't tighten the gear properly and it fails to make pressure on the initial start-up attempt rather than a formerly running unit all of a sudden quitting working. When you go to take off the HPOP it will be obvious if the drive gear is loose.

The HPOP on my truck died last year and I put in a Motorcraft reman from the local Ford dealer. My engine is a stock early '99, so what you want out of an HPOP may vary.

 

I checked the drive gear when I reinstalled it, torqued down, no movement forward and backward. I am getting low pressure because when I pull the oil reservoir plug off and have someone crank it the oil doesn’t shoot out but definitely comes out with pressure. I was thinking it was the HPOP going out though with how it was running before it shot out the fitting, but wasn’t optimistic on the price😑 Now I have to find one and have it shipped to my house or get one from the dealer.

 

Went to the car-part.com website and found someone that had a brand new in box fomoco HPOP near Houston, went yesterday and picked it up. Today after the rain cleared out my buddy and I pulled the old pump, swapped over my jic fittings, installed the pump, filled the reservoir and cranked her up. Took one key cycle and 10 seconds crank time and it hesitated, burped, then fired right up. Let it run for about 15 minutes, shut it off and then checked for leaks. No leaks, plugged in my code reader, ran FORScan on the system and started it up. Again the gpr relay code came back, the ICP code came back again saying low voltage, and the bcm code for my ignition dinger. Ran a log on the ICPv and ipr and they were bouncing all over the place. Let it run and now they’re flatlined or pretty close to flatlined where they’re suppose to be at. What could the ICP problem be? I ran a koer test and it was throwing the p1211 ICP sensor code on the test. Could it just be air in the system or is it a bad sensor even though it’s brand new from riffraff?

 

Did you clear the codes after you installed the new pump?

 

Yes sir I did, that ICP code keeps coming up when I run the Key On Engine Running engine test, the GPR code is intermittent. The body code is because I have to replace my clock spring.

 

Is P1211 the only engine DTC code other than the one with your glow plugs? Before you had a P1280 as well. If P1211 is the only one other than the glow plugs, setting a P1211 with the key on engine running test means that the injection pressure was not detected to increase and decrease appropriately when the PCM commanded it low and then high during the test. The pinpoint test in the Powertrain Control and Emissions Diagnosis manual say to do the following in this order:

1. Make sure there is enough oil in the engine and there is fuel in the fuel bowl.
2. Check fuel pressure, it should be at least 20 PSI at idle and 30 PSI at wide open throttle (it should actually be 45-50+ but for the purposes of this test they give lower numbers.)
3. Make sure the HPOP reservoir is full.
4. With the key on engine off, make sure the ICP is 0 PSI. If not, replace the ICP sensor.
5. Hold the engine at wide open throttle (3300 RPM) for three minutes and monitor the ICP, it should be below 1250 PSI, else change the engine oil and repeat.
6. Monitor the ICP voltage using a cable that tees into the sensor and the wiring harness connector during the key on engine running test. The voltage should increase to >3.0 volts and then decrease to about 1 volt during the test. If this happens and P1211 is still set, replace the PCM.
7. Block off the high pressure oil line to the passenger side cylinder head and check the IPR% running only on the driver's side bank. Then block off the driver's side cylinder head line (making sure to put the ICP sensor in the end of the driver's side HPOP line and connecting it to the wiring harness! If you don't do this you will NOT get accurate results!) and check the IPR%. If the readings are not within 2%, you have a high pressure oil leak in the head with the higher IPR%, check injectors/O-rings and the rail drain plugs for high pressure oil leaks.
8. If the two banks are within 2% of each other, replace the IPR.
9. If replacing the IPR didn't eliminate the P1211, your new HPOP is bad.

 

I appreciate that, I’ll test all that when I get off work and see what I find out. That’s a whole lot more information than what I was able to find online. I’ll let you know when I test and find out what the problem is.

 

There is a copy of the 1998 Econoline/early 1999 PC/ED online here. (go to the three dots on the left on the screen and download the entire file.) You can also buy a copy of the 2001 7.3 PC/ED from various sources such as used on eBay.

 

I got home and started running down the diag list, numbers 1-3 checked out, getting 85psi fuel pressure at idle, 65psi fuel pressure at full throttle. Pulled the plug off the reservoir, it’s right below the plug hole. Went to number 4, plugged in my scanner, brought up the ICPV and it was running between 550 and 750 with the key on engine off, would never truly go to zero. Unplugged the sensor and finally zero. Looks like I’m going to need to replace it once again.

 

Is that the ICP sensor you said before that you got off eBay? The general consensus is most 7.3 sensors on eBay and Amazon are junk, it's either aftermarket garbage or aftermarket garbage in a counterfeit Motorcraft bag. Usually it's recommended to get sensors from the Ford dealer parts counter, the International parts counter, or from one of a few known-to-have-genuine-parts sellers like Riffraff Diesel.

 

No sir this one was from Riffraff, however I think it may have gotten drenched in oil is why it’s quit working. Tomorrow when I get home I will try and ohm out between the contacts to confirm. Also I’m going to call the dealer and see if they have one in stock to replace the current one.