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Full AC replacement/R134A

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Old Jul 17, 2025 | 09:47 AM
  #31  
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I've got the blower on max, pulling in outside air, windows down, and engine idling. 94 for the high here today, so that should be plenty hot enough. I assume by "slugging" you mean that it's getting vapor locked with too much oil somewhere? If so, how would I solve this, other than just let the system run longer. Should I run keep the engine running a bit faster? (no tach, so can't set it to a given speed, just can guess).
 
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Old Jul 17, 2025 | 10:04 AM
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That should be ok. I had that happen a few times on Chrysler systems when retrofitting. I got a little too much oil in the high side hose and then when the expansion block cooled down on the initial charge the oil would pass through the orifice very slowly. The Ford system could possibly do that too maybe. Probably just run it a bit. I always liked to rev it up a bit to see where the high side was starting to go also to drive the fan faster and get more airflow. I've also just shut off the valve to the can and opened up both valves on the manifold to let the refrigerant that's in the system short circuit for a bit to help move the oil around. That might help too.

The nice thing about doing the work on a hot day is that when you're done you get to test it out.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2025 | 10:35 AM
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Found the problem. I found the orifice tube in the yard. When I was hooking it up last night and started putting refrigerant in it, the spring lock tube going to the evaporator blew apart. Guessing I didn't have it hooked up all the way. Time to disassemble, put in the spare tube, and start over again.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2025 | 10:41 AM
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No Fing way, I had an issue like that when in Mesa did that 94+ condenser as could not find a parallel flow for my buds truck I fully rebuilt (his '89). Shop did that hose did not put a spring in the connection, just orings. FOT shot into orbit swapped the FOT (again), installed the spring, good to go!

**** happens. Gas it up and cool off! Find that seven bladed fan when you have time, it will help at idle.



Interesting on the blue stayed installed. My '96 came with a red one, when I do the full conversion I use it...but 0.005" is not much especially for this. Perhaps why either seems to work fine.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2025 | 11:43 AM
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I couldn't find most of the white tip to the orifice tube. Guessing it's in the yard. I think it hit the fence and broke apart. In any case, I couldn't find it in the hose or the tube.

Got the new tube in there and I'm pulling a vacuum now. I'll let it run for an hour this time and then start charging up the system.

The 7-blade fans run around $45 on rockauto, so I'll just get it next month when I address the coolant dripping from the engine all night long...
 
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Old Jul 17, 2025 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
No Fing way, I had an issue like that when in Mesa did that 94+ condenser as could not find a parallel flow for my buds truck I fully rebuilt (his '89). Shop did that hose did not put a spring in the connection, just orings. FOT shot into orbit swapped the FOT (again), installed the spring, good to go!

**** happens. Gas it up and cool off! Find that seven bladed fan when you have time, it will help at idle.



Interesting on the blue stayed installed. My '96 came with a red one, when I do the full conversion I use it...but 0.005" is not much especially for this. Perhaps why either seems to work fine.
It is interesting about the red orifice that's .005 larger than the blue. I just don't remember that but it has been about 30 years ago that we were doing a lot of that conversion work and the "hot setup" or is it "cool"? was to use the Ford blue orifice in a GM system for conversion and to leave it alone on a Ford. Most of the time it seems like changing out the fittings, getting the pressures where they needed to be and the correct lubricant in the system were the main things to work with to make a retrofit successful.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2025 | 01:26 PM
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Most conversions I have encountered were halfassed at best, basically service ports swapped and that old '70% only' charge weight. It puts you in ballpark, I guess.

At least we do not have that caca GM R4 to deal with here! Plus these FS/X10s are silly easy to reseal as long as they run smooth and quiet. The one on my '96 has a leaking shaft seal, I will order and do it in the winter.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2025 | 02:17 PM
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We used to change out shaft seals from time to time if the compressor was otherwise ok. A lot times those leak during the off season when the compressor doesn't get used a lot.

One time I had an old lady come to the shop with about an 83 Buick with an R4. I could hear the compressor not the belt barking. She said it started doing that coming back from the city. I figured that it was probably killed but just for the heck of it I put a few oz of the ester oil that we used for retrofitting in a hose and gave it a little shot into the still R12 system. The compressor got quiet and she drove that car till she died at least another 15 or 20 years and we never had to service the system. I couldn't believe it, probably still working.


 
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Old Jul 17, 2025 | 02:53 PM
  #39  
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Using the R-134A temperature pressure chart, I've charged the system. Air temp was around 90-95, so I charged it to the 50-55/275-300 psi ranges. Weighing the cans before and after, I find that the system only took some 27.89 oz (probably a little less for the amount that was in the lines when I disconnected everything, after first waiting for each gauge to drop down before I disconnected them. The ac blows fairly cool now, but not cold like my other vehicles. I am still using a smaller set of coils and such.

I'll get the other fan on order at the beginning of next month and see how much of a difference that makes. I might check it again with the gauges then to see if it'll take more refrigerant if it gets better cooling.

Quick question though, if I swap from the 5 blade to the 7 blade, do I need a larger fan shroud?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2025 | 03:17 PM
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What do the pressures do when you rev up the engine. Low side needs to be down to around 25lbs or so to cool well. Can it get that low or does the compressor cycle off first?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2025 | 03:35 PM
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29 psi and then it looked like the compressor cut off, probably due to the low side switch.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2025 | 03:38 PM
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Try adjusting the switch so that it goes lower. Get it down to 25 or so. A whole lot lower and it might make it want to freeze up but maybe not. You'll have to experiment and see but a few psi could make a world of difference in the vent temperatures.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2025 | 08:03 AM
  #43  
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Fan clutch good? IMO, you are undergassed. What brand gauges are you using? I only use Yellow Jacket or Mastercool on vehicles, Fieldpiece for houses.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2025 | 08:41 AM
  #44  
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Yes, the fan clutch is working. I was thinking that I'd be a bit low on the refrigerant still. The gauges were the loaners from Oreilly's, so EverTough?. I did notice that when I left the gauges attached and let the system cool down, there was about a 5 psi delta between the two (at around 115 psi). I used the same set of gauges (brand at least, if not the exact same ones) a few weeks back to recharge the minivan and it's blowing great now.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2025 | 08:43 AM
  #45  
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On a side note, after replacing all of this I do notice some air blowing out of the air box back into the engine bay. It's coming through the seam in the air box that holds the evaporator core. I'll probably just seal the seam with some aluminum tape in the coming weeks.
 
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