Hello everyone.
This will be my first post. I found this site after looking on the internet for some explanations as to why I had to use 5w 20 oil in my new 2003 EB Expy. (Which I love). I am not by nature mechanically inclined, and so I apologize for either dumb questions or statements, but I have found the information regarding oil and lubrication to be very interesting and believe I am really learning a lot. Thanks to you all.

One post discussed multi viscosity oil. If I have it right, the lower number is the base oil and this is the viscosity that the oil will act like when cold. Polymers, (little plastic coils made of hydrocarbons?) are added that when heated unwind thickening the oil to act like the higher number. A number of threads have cautioned, though, that the higher the spread between the lower and higher numbers, the more problematic the oil might be. There would be a greater amount of added polymers that might shear and compromise the oil’s lubricating ability. This makes sense, BUT (MY QUESTION FINALLY) a few posts note that this does not apply to synthetics. This has piqued my curiosity. Why doesn’t this apply to synthetics? Do synthetics achieve multi viscosity via a different mechanism? If they do use a different process for achieving multi viscosity what is it?

A second question or request for an opinion really. In trying to come up with an oil/ oil change scenario that will make this very expensive truck last into the next geological age, I have started to do the following: using mobile1 0w-20 (says it is direct replacement for the 5w-20 ford advises). I take to jiffy lube and have them do the work. I now realize that the fram filters they use may be sub par and plan to switch to motor craft filters. I will be changing the oil and filter at 3000 mile intervals (give a few hundred extra miles due to my never getting anything done exactly on time.) I don’t mind if this is overkill as peace of mind has a value to me. Any thoughts?

I want to thank everyone in advance, not just for an answer to my questions, but also for a lot of the interesting information that is allowing me to learn more about my tuck and how it works.

Dan

 

Two Questions: What does the filler cap and manual say say for engine oil?
does it say 5w-20. or 5w-30.
: Do you live where it gets below 0 F.
I have a 2003 4.0L 9,000 miles my filler cap say 5w-30 my dealer wants to run the 5w-20 semi synthetic, Ford says it's a dealer issue, but I should be running what the manual says, and to get it in writing that they will cover my warranty while using 5w-20 semi synthetic.
I am switching to motorcraft 5w-30 full synthetic on monday.
0w-20 is for extreme cold climate. Do you live in Alaska, Minnesota or above 5,000 feet?

 

Welcome to FTE!

You're right on in your understanding of polymers in dino oil. With synthetic, the basestocks are naturally somewhat resistant to change in viscosity from temperature. Thus, a 10w30 synthetic has almost no viscosity improvers. Some of them do, however, like a 0w40 synthetic. However, it's a significantly lower amount than a 0w40 dino would have.

For your particular application, I'd use a 10w30 diesel rated dino. I realize you dont have a diesel, but hear me out. The diesel rating (CH-4, CI-4, SL) will have more antiwear additive, more anti-foaming additive, more soot-handling capabilities, and more cleaning agents. This will help any motor, not just a diesel. Something like Rotella T, Mystik JT-8 or Delo would work fine. Concerning the fact that it's not 5w20, first the guys at the Ford garage are never gonna tell the difference, and even if they do, I believe I've seen evidence on this board that they probably look the other way.

Good luck with your Expy!

 

I would suggest that you do a search on this forum for the 5w-20 oil. I have posted the 153-H spec several times and the testing required to achieve grade. The M1 is probably the bottom of the barrel in the 5w-20 oils as its HT/HS rating is only 2.6 which is absoute minimum to be in grade. Engineers usually agree that HT/HS rating of 2.8 is the bar for normal wear. HT/HS rating is directly related to bearing wear in your engine. Most OTC oils in 5w-20 are 2.8 or better and topping that list would be Redline at 3.3. Redline is no cheap date though.
You might also do search for analysis on this forum. While synthetics hold up to oxidation better, they also have higher wear metals. This doesn't mean that using synthetics will shorten the life of the engine as we are talking parts per million. Driving habits will be the determining factor in the engine life rather than the type of oil you use. Some folks have over 200,000 miles using Walmart cheap dino and the engine still doesn't use oil. The best oil on the market is fresh. Change your oil and filter according to your owners manual and you will see several hundred thousand miles out of your new buggy.

 

welcome to the site from another newbie

i have 17,000K on a v-10 that calls for 5w20, recently switched to Mobil 1 0w20. A friend in racing said that it may not be enough protection (from experience - bearings failing), may swith to Mobil1 5w30 or Royal Purple, also napa gold or wix oil filters are supposed to be good.

>>There would be a greater amount of added polymers that might shear and compromise the oil’s lubricating ability. ... Why doesn’t this apply to synthetics?<<

from what i've read, like you, the synthetics are resistant to the degradation that breaks down other oil. that degradation occurs at the molecular levels breaking down molcules/chains.

FWIW

 

It is sort of the reverse. Synthetics "break down" less because they have fewer polymer additives in the first place. Even low quality straight dino grades do not shear out at all because they have no polymers.

PAO, esters and even Group III base oils have a naturally higher viscosity index so they need fewer polymers to make SAE grade. The good news is that the newer polymers are also superior to those of the past.

Jim

 

a more accurate explanation, indeed