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Old Jun 4, 2025 | 08:47 PM
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Brake bleeding

I’ve got a ‘21 F250, can I bleed the brakes manually/old school style of pumping and holding? I’ve searched and read that I need a tool to open the abs modules, but what if I don’t have access to the tool? Any info is appreciated.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2025 | 09:35 PM
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I have always gravity bled my brakes. Unless your replacing the ABS module, either way should work fine.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Tjheller
I’ve got a ‘21 F250, can I bleed the brakes manually/old school style of pumping and holding? I’ve searched and read that I need a tool to open the abs modules, but what if I don’t have access to the tool? Any info is appreciated.
Trick we have used in the past to clear air from the ABS system after replacing brake parts/lines.
Bleed them normally, then find a gravel road and activate the ABS system a few times (low speed). Then bleed them again. Assuming you did some repair that opened up the system to air (broken brake line etc)
 
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Fordtimes1
Trick we have used in the past to clear air from the ABS system after replacing brake parts/lines.
Bleed them normally, then find a gravel road and activate the ABS system a few times (low speed). Then bleed them again. Assuming you did some repair that opened up the system to air (broken brake line etc)
I have heard this before but never tried it. Hard to do with a truck camper in the bed. That being said I did have a knock off tool that replicated a GM diagnostic tool that had the feature built in and would bleed the brakes using the ABS pump.

The boat trailer has EOH and I use that pump to bleed and replace the fluid in the trailer brakes periodically.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 12:31 PM
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Chiming in here, the manual on my 21 F350 says to bleed the brakes every 36 months with fresh fluid. Would an ABS tool be necessary? I have a pressure bleeder.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by bent-1
Chiming in here, the manual on my 21 F350 says to bleed the brakes every 36 months with fresh fluid. Would an ABS tool be necessary? I have a pressure bleeder.
Nothing will kill an ABS pump quicker than compromised fluid.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 09:31 PM
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Prices seem to be getting better and better for the scan tools that can do ABS pumping. Maybe invest in one of them? Consider that cars are getting more and more sophisticated so would owning such a tool for the cars you own be a bad thing? I flush my brakes for all the vehicles every 2 years. I bought the Motive bleeder. On that day, all cars, trike and anything with brake fluid gets flushed. Flush car with garden hose, take it to the car wash for undercarriage wash and drive it home and redo procedure.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2025 | 12:15 PM
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True, just make sure the pressure bleeder is clean & brake reservoir is clean before starting.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2025 | 12:26 PM
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ForScan worked for the ABS pump bleed on my Excursion, have not looked on the 22 truck to see if it's still an option but it was super easy on the older model.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2025 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bent-1
True, just make sure the pressure bleeder is clean & brake reservoir is clean before starting.
Clean it after use and bag it.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2025 | 10:06 AM
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I've been using an inexpensive, air operated vacuum bleeder with good success.

On the bikes, where there's no ABS involved, I use a big animal syringe from TSC and pressure back bleed from the bleeder screw on the caliper to the reservoir. I do the same with the bike's hyd clutches
 
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Old Jun 8, 2025 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 6.2caribou
I've been using an inexpensive, air operated vacuum bleeder with good success.

On the bikes, where there's no ABS involved, I use a big animal syringe from TSC and pressure back bleed from the bleeder screw on the caliper to the reservoir. I do the same with the bike's hyd clutches
Isn't the caliper at a lower point than the reservoir? Aren't you pushing any accumulation of crud to the master cylinder?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2025 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
Isn't the caliper at a lower point than the reservoir? Aren't you pushing any accumulation of crud to the master cylinder?
It is lower, and air bubbles have a tendency to rise, so they evacuate when being pushed upward. If you clean out the bleeder screw first, dirt intrusion is a non-issue. Some bikes like Yamaha YZs were notorious for being tough to bleed because the front caliper had an S curve in it where it passed under the fork, by the caliper. To bleed it properly you had to unfasten the caliper and hang it up higher than the bar mounted master cylinder...or just pressure bleed it back into the master cylinder until there were no more bubbles coming back into the MC.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2025 | 08:03 PM
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Any good brand bleeder work better than others ? Or is using a container with a hose and pushing the pedal work just as good

I wanna flush my fluid
 
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Old Jun 9, 2025 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mattymax
Any good brand bleeder work better than others ? Or is using a container with a hose and pushing the pedal work just as good

I wanna flush my fluid
Do you have more than 1 vehicle? If so, I would get the Motive Products bleeder and the adapters for all the vehicles you own. Do like I do. Every couple of years. I did that because that was the MB standard and I had a couple of them so I flush every 2 years.
 
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