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I need to replace this section of my floor pan, but can’t seem to figure out what it’s called or where to get it. I ordered front floor pans but they don’t go as far back as I need.
Get a extra front floor pan panel and cut out what you need. That area comes with a complete floor pan panel. So just going to cut that bad out and weld in some good.
When I repaired the floors in mine, for that area I grabbed some 20 gauge I think it was sheet metal at a local hardware store and bent it into shape for the section between seat and door.
X2 with Mterickson. Get some 18 Ga. break the bends and keep bending and cutting until it fits correctly.
try to leave bout 1/16 in around the new piece, then when welding it in it makes a strong weld so when you grind it smooth
you have a good weld with penetrarion.. You get the idea......
Alex
Mine were done near 30 years ago. I had returned from a trip and noted wet carpet while cleaning the truck, investigated, found carpet and the insulation were wet. I knew my floors had some surface rust in the '80s when I first put the seats in, but then they were still strong enough, and I just made sure to not drag wet or snow covered feet in and I covered the carpet with rubber mats. In the '90s I was under the truck and saw there were a few holes I could poke fingers through, and I realized was "road splash" that was keeping my carpet and insulation wet from below. I pulled the seats out, removed all the carpet and insulation. I cup brushed and primed and painted the floors, I did not cut any out. I took some sheet steel and after carefully marking / bending / hammering .... I had pieces that well overlapped sound metal. My OEM floors never seemed weak, they just had holes. I added more holes, for 3/16" stainless steel pop rivets , and using up a few bits and a air riveter, after priming and painting them, I had pretty solid floors in that no water got through. I added a spayed on coat of undercoat below.
Soon, maybe a couple years later, while under there checking stuff, I saw the holes in the original metal had not grown, and then I got the idea to add a layer of something below to sct as splash shielding to stop water thrown up by the front tires from getting in there. I was not then taking long trips in it, but was occasionally still driving locally even in rain or snow as needed. I saw where my local highway dept. had discarded some old scratched / damaged road signs, some just were changed as roads changed. I cut that easy with a sabre saw, cut until I had pieces that fit well, and found they would even tuck into the rear edge of the cab mounts so any water running back would not get between them and the floor. I put these pieces on and now I knew road splash was solved.
Inside, I cleaned my floors and used a bed liner material on them and after a few days cure, put my rubber mats in. Over a few years time, I grew tired of them sliding around, but the floors were OK. I was gifted a rather nice stack of 2'x2' industrial floor covering produced at a local bonded fibers factory, it's made of a non rotting heavy duty fiber like carpeting with a thick rubber solid backing that is water proof. The fibers are encapsulated in the extruding of the rubber. It comes in colors, I know guys who used it in shops, etc. I used a few 1/4-20 counter sunk SS screws through SS furniture washers, and they go through even that aluminum below the floors where are flat washers and lock nuts.
A couple pics taken in more recent times in this digital age, when I was adding the cut carpeted squares.
When I did these, I did not have a plan for covering other than the bed liner stuff, so I did the "not needed section" just to create a smoother transition. The lower section was just to cover holes, I never cut away original floor, I kept it to be sure I stayed close to it, and the holes were not big either.
It works for me.
I have since then, redone the door opening, sill area and made a center console like of wood, and new seat covers.
You'll see I don't mind a hole if needed, and the extra brace is for the step, that I mounted on the sides so they would pivot without added stress to the cab weld seam, and I had cleaned out the seam from above, we primed it and painted it, then after new door seals I cut and installed SS sill plates after filling the seam with sealant. You can see that brace, it connects to a cross bar under the step to spread any loading. Any brown you might see under the cab is some brown enamel paint, not rust. The cab floor support cross member nearest is solid.
That flat looking step brace is 3/16" or 1/4" thick X 1-1/4" wide. It only has to resist compression force. I bolted it to the floor and has thick washers there ... and not the frame because the body moves very slightly as it has rubber bushings to the frame. This way the step stays solid with the body.
First picture is from rear looking forwards, you can see how the shield is just barely tucked under the lip of the cab mount base, drains are open.
I likely will in time, spray some more paint under there. I considered chroming the brace ... but then didn't go that route.
To get the stiffing lines/ridges (when needed) in a flat piece of floor pan sheet metal, go old school and make them by laying the piece of metal over a piece of pipe or old broom handle and shape it.
To get the stiffing lines/ridges (when needed) in a flat piece of floor pan sheet metal, go old school and make them by laying the piece of metal over a piece of pipe or old broom handle and shape it.
I straight up borrowed that tecnhique from a fellow FTE member. He builds, ownes, drives and fly's his very own old school (still all leaf spring) monster truck.
World record car stack
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
I considered chroming the brace ... but then didn't go that route.
