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I have a 1983 Ford F150 with 83,000 miles on it. It’s damn near cherry and I will never sell it so I don’t care to keep it all original bone stock. I’ve lifted it 3 inches and exhaust, but I drive it to my cabin in the mountains and it’s slow as ****. I’m not expecting it to be fast, but I’m looking to get more power from that 302. I wanna know what’s best for intake carb headers maybe even a cam. I’m also curious if I’m gonna have issues with the vacuum lines because I believe the transmission has something to do with the vacuum line. Yes I’m in California so smogging is an issue although I got people and hopefully Jay Leno’s law passes. What do you recommend?
If you don't have gray hair, just wear a hat and leave your left blinker on while traveling in the slow lane. Try to look like an old man in a hat. Then keep on creeping up to the cabin. Or call summit racing and ask for their advice in the land of sunshine and smog. If you have emissions to deal with you may as well order a hat.
First of all stunning truck!!! Did you just get it? As for power. Have you gotten a baseline yet? Make sure its solid, not tired, and running as it should before jumpping in. I really dont know what mods your allowed, but is the motor is solid, and healthy you cant beat a cam/intake/carb/and head swap. That era heads were real bad for power. even later era stock E7's were a huge step up. Keep any mods inline with your use. Mild cam and heads, small carb, and intake. Keep that power band low.
I’ve had the truck for a while now. I purchased it from an old man however it was very well taken care. The carburetor has not been rebuilt and the float bowl was sticking so I’ve cleaned it out a few times but it needs to be pulled and rebuilt so I was thinking about going with a bigger car and some upgrades to just get more power. So no I don’t think I’ve truly got the baseline for what it should be because of the cab. Thanks for the advice calling summit now
I had a nice long answer typed but don't know why it did not post
Being you have a look over and sniffer smog test any mods will be tuff if they are not CARB cert.
Then tires do not look like stock size they look larger and add to it a 3.08 gear ratio the truck may had I can see it being a dog or as you say "slow".
You did not post the transmission you have and O am pretty sure they did not use AOD in a 4x4 but maybe a SROD that has over drive?
If it dose have over drive I can see it being a bigger dog then.
You can do a gear swap front & rear to say 4.10 / 4.11 then add a Gear Vender over drive to the transfer case, can only be used in 4x2 mod.
You get the power back before the larger tires and even then some, have over drive and you can split the gears above 20 MPH.
I did a gear swap for think 3.08 to 4.11 on a full size K5 Blazer with a diesel. I also went from a 235 / 75 / 15 tires to 10.50 / 15 and with the gear change was better than when it was new.
Tires were done first week when new and gears under 12K miles and less that a year old. At 100K added a turbo and ran it that way till 230K when I sold it.
Dave ----
In 1984-85 Ford made an aluminum 4 barrel manifold and used a 550 cfm Holley on it.
Yhey were used on mustang gt 5.0.
they go cheap on ebay or craigs list.
Nice to use an era correct genuine Ford part.
the carb has all the ports for making hook up easy and stock looking.
I have a 1983 Ford F150 with 83,000 miles on it. It’s damn near cherry and I will never sell it so I don’t care to keep it all original bone stock. I’ve lifted it 3 inches and exhaust, but I drive it to my cabin in the mountains and it’s slow as ****. I’m not expecting it to be fast, but I’m looking to get more power from that 302. I wanna know what’s best for intake carb headers maybe even a cam. I’m also curious if I’m gonna have issues with the vacuum lines because I believe the transmission has something to do with the vacuum line. Yes I’m in California so smogging is an issue although I got people and hopefully Jay Leno’s law passes. What do you recommend?
1, nice truck
2, if you are talking highway speeds i would first have to ask what rear end gear you have, and fo you tow with your truck on a regular basis. If not, running a lower gear (numericly speaking) 2.70-3.08 vs a 3.56+ will help attain higher highway speeds. But any gearing change will impact overall speeds. A 2.70 gear will give you a faster over all highway speed but it will take longer to get there, a 4.11 will cost you on the other end, it will cap out lower, like 60-65mph but get there quicker.
3, if you are talking about reducing the time it takes to get from 0 - highway speeds. Then generally speaking anything you can do to improve airflow will help raise engine power. Headers, and a properly balanced intake, cam, and carb can help a lot. If money is not a concern then look into performance heads, turbos, blowers and the like. 👍
Thanks for all the feedback great information. I am not worried about emissions and smog it I will get that done. I believe this truck has an overdrive. In fact I feel like there may be something a little wrong with the overdrive because it takes a while for it to kick in. The main concern I’m having with the speed or power is actually going up a hill or just trying to pick up speed quicker. I currently have a cart at Summit with New heads cam Holly 600 carb and intake. I do like the idea about the earlier Mustang heads and carb that’s probably a much cheaper route. With that said I’m not too concerned about the cost. I got this truck for very cheap so I’m already way ahead. I’ll spend some money on it to do it the right way and to give me some power.
If you think your having tranny issues, I would address those first. Let them know what your plans are for more HP. Again, there are a number of performance tranny shops out in CA, or at least there used to be.
[QUOTE=Nvr2many;21586083]Thanks for all the feedback great information. I am not worried about emissions and smog it I will get that done. I believe this truck has an overdrive. In fact I feel like there may be something a little wrong with the overdrive because it takes a while for it to kick in. The main concern I’m having with the speed or power is actually going up a hill or just trying to pick up speed quicker. I currently have a cart at Summit with New heads cam Holly 600 carb and intake. I do like the idea about the earlier Mustang heads and carb that’s probably a much cheaper route. With that said I’m not too concerned about the cost. I got this truck for very cheap so I’m already way ahead. I’ll spend some money on it to do it the right way and to give me some power.[/QUOTE
go for s 450 cfm carb.
i just replaced my 600 vacuum secondary Holley with a
450 cfm quick slayer (from simmit)and I cant begin to tell you jow much better it is all the way around.
Thanks for all the feedback great information. I am not worried about emissions and smog it I will get that done. I believe this truck has an overdrive. In fact I feel like there may be something a little wrong with the overdrive because it takes a while for it to kick in. The main concern I’m having with the speed or power is actually going up a hill or just trying to pick up speed quicker. I currently have a cart at Summit with New heads cam Holly 600 carb and intake. I do like the idea about the earlier Mustang heads and carb that’s probably a much cheaper route. With that said I’m not too concerned about the cost. I got this truck for very cheap so I’m already way ahead. I’ll spend some money on it to do it the right way and to give me some power.
If you do have over drive, auto or manual? and with the gear ratio, trans & axle codes are on the door sticker will tell us what you got, and larger tires is why it is a dog on hills.
Thinking you have a auto because you said it takes time to go in, this is also because of the gear ratio & large tires is making the trans shift later.
Dave ----
If you do have over drive, auto or manual? and with the gear ratio, trans & axle codes are on the door sticker will tell us what you got, and larger tires is why it is a dog on hills.
Thinking you have a auto because you said it takes time to go in, this is also because of the gear ratio & large tires is making the trans shift later.
Dave ----
it honestly drove the same with the stock tires. Sure a little slower but the tires are not the issue. Its stock. Nothing I own is stock. Nothing. I want more. I’m a grown *** kid who likes to take perfectly running things and modify them to look better and faster. The lag shifting into overdrive has been there from the start
Nice truck.
What trans and axle ratio does it have?
If you have an AOD and 33" tires? then you need 4.10 gears in the axles.
That vintage 5.0 is a pooch but there is quite a bit of untapped potential.. it just needs a cam(more than anything) and if you really want some HP better heads to both increase compression and airflow.
Nice truck.
What trans and axle ratio does it have?
If you have an AOD and 33" tires? then you need 4.10 gears in the axles.
That vintage 5.0 is a pooch but there is quite a bit of untapped potential.. it just needs a cam(more than anything) and if you really want some HP better heads to both increase compression and airflow.
The thing is you cant go too crazy with the motor mods as the computer cant handle it as it is lock unlike modern computers that you can add a chip to and motor on.
Then again if you dont have smog checks you can rip out the factory computer, swap in a cam, heads to boost compression & flow, aftermarket EFI and a supper charger.
If that dose not get you the power then time to up the displacement!
Then again if you have the weak AOD you will need to replace it with a stronger over drive transmission.
Dave ----
