1990 E4OD rebuild issues
Unfortunately, there is no way to answer your question. Do you get any codes?
Start with the basics: What fluid did you use? Where did you get your parts? What manual did you follow? Did you air test as you built? Are the feed bolts tight? Valve bodies, accumulator, Center support, all in and correct? Is the filter still in place, which filter did you use? Any modifications from stock?
Don’t floor it just to see what happens.
What was wrong with it in the first place? Ie. Why did you rebuild it, exactly?
Did you perform the eight(8) air pressure checks to make sure all pistons are working and sealed correctly?
Means
Start over
You used all the special tools for the lip seals? How about the end play setup?
You might want to start right there; you have one or two cut lip seals or possibly worse, if the planetary is shot
I used to watch our trans man fight those valve bodies
Wondering what you do for a living
Overhauling a E4OD is NOT easy
I'm a Ford Chassis Master Tech and would not attempt a E4OD without about 2k worth of special tools
I would visit my trans man buddy
He visits me when he needs ball joint press equipment and wheel bearing tools
Means
Start over
You used all the special tools for the lip seals? How about the end play setup?
You might want to start right there; you have one or two cut lip seals or possibly worse, if the planetary is shot
I used to watch our trans man fight those valve bodies
Wondering what you do for a living
Overhauling a E4OD is NOT easy
I'm a Ford Chassis Master Tech and would not attempt a E4OD without about 2k worth of special tools
I would visit my trans man buddy
He visits me when he needs ball joint press equipment and wheel bearing tools
You dont' have to pull it yet.
Re-do the air pressure tests, that should say if any of the lip seals are bad and where on which piston.
What you do for a living? that's got nothing to do with anything.
I made the 'specialty tools', - all two of them.
It's not that difficult, just need the ATSG manual.
I've only done one E4OD [mine] and if reverse does engage, I would think the hydraulics work [pump, filter, etc]. I would get a pressure gauge and see what is going on with that. I would plan on taking the transmission out, but I would start with the pan removal and checking the air ports. The way I do things, the ports would have been checked several times before I put in the pan so I would think it's not that. Since you got to take the valvebody out before you gut the trans, it does hurt to do it before you yank the transmission.
One way clutches is something that can be put in backwards and still look like everything is installed properly.















