steering problems with lift kits
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steering problems with lift kits
Has anyone experienced steering problems or rapid tie rod wear when using body and suspension lift kits ?
My truck has a 3" body and 3" suspension lift installed by previous owner. While I like the looks and ride, the steering is erratic at times, always pulling right or left, and just spongy feeling at the steering wheel. I adjusted the play out of steering box, truck has all new ball joints and tie rod ends and main links. But I noticed the right side tie rod end already has noticeable up/down play when pried on with a bar. Is that right ??
Previous owner installed the new steering linkage.
Is there special steering parts that make up for lift kit changes ??
My truck has a 3" body and 3" suspension lift installed by previous owner. While I like the looks and ride, the steering is erratic at times, always pulling right or left, and just spongy feeling at the steering wheel. I adjusted the play out of steering box, truck has all new ball joints and tie rod ends and main links. But I noticed the right side tie rod end already has noticeable up/down play when pried on with a bar. Is that right ??
Previous owner installed the new steering linkage.
Is there special steering parts that make up for lift kit changes ??
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From: chino valley az
fords ttb's dont take well to suspension lifts. it has a tendency to have an accelerated wear on steering components. i have manufactuerd my own steering components on vehicles with high lifts. basically the lincoln cont. steering will fit, eliminating the "long rod" steering. it will require a bracket to be installed on the pass side frame rail for the idler arm. the dodge truck 2&4 wd works well, but you will need to modify the factory pitman arm to fit the dodge steering. you will find this to be a great inprovement over the factory set up in both high and low speeds. look at the steering geometry over a stock vehicle, and you will see the problem.. Kurt oh yeah the drop pitman arm doesn;t help much.
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From: Virginia
Here's going to be your main problem with any suspension lift. You have to keep those steering arms and twin-i-beams, as level as possible. This is what those brackets and dropped pitman arms are trying to achieve.
And also they don't tell you those dropped brackets and arms put more strain on the frame and steering box.
And also they don't tell you those dropped brackets and arms put more strain on the frame and steering box.
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thanks
the angle on this steering linkage is ridiculous, it's almost a 45 degree angle from the box down.
when you say Lincoln steering linkage, what year Lincoln ??
How much for a complete kit ??
lifting the truck is kind of dumb is it leads to steering problems then, IMO. It's either fix the steering geometry, or take the lift kits off.
A pitman drop arm would help, but also a tie rod end part that lifted the mount point would help to, as would lowering the steering box on the frame a bit if possible.
the angle on this steering linkage is ridiculous, it's almost a 45 degree angle from the box down.
when you say Lincoln steering linkage, what year Lincoln ??
How much for a complete kit ??
lifting the truck is kind of dumb is it leads to steering problems then, IMO. It's either fix the steering geometry, or take the lift kits off.
A pitman drop arm would help, but also a tie rod end part that lifted the mount point would help to, as would lowering the steering box on the frame a bit if possible.
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From: chino valley az
that is why i really recomend lifts no more than two inchs. body lift well with no real steering geometery changes. though on the ford they have a tendency to cause sttering linkage binding when exceeding 3". this can be easily overcome by installing two u joints on the column and eliminating the rag joints.. the dodge truck set up was the best, and required the least amount of fabrication. the only item as i recall, and i will have to look up the invoice, was i had to turn the pitman around 180'. the lincoln worked well but was a royal pita. will get back to you on that.. Kurt
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From: (near) Denver USA
For a lifted TTB system, I like the Superlift Superunner steering system design.
I think it would work better for an F250 because the 3/4-ton TTB axle housings are shorter than the 1/2-ton housings (pivot points are closer to vehicle centerline), so the tie rods move more in-phase with the axle housings. I've met some Bronco TTB drivers that like the Superunner system on their rigs.
I think it would work better for an F250 because the 3/4-ton TTB axle housings are shorter than the 1/2-ton housings (pivot points are closer to vehicle centerline), so the tie rods move more in-phase with the axle housings. I've met some Bronco TTB drivers that like the Superunner system on their rigs.
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ok please explain, what does TTB stand for ??
also, if you move the outer tie rod ends in closer to each other on each side, that would make the angle down from the steering box even worse, not better. Think about it.
One thing that can be done is, a piece of 3/8" steel plate attached to the side of the frame vertically, to extend it straight down. Then just attach the steering box lower by moving it down on that plate, back to original height from the ground, where it would be if the truck wasn't lifted. In other words, lift the frame and body, but keep the steering box where it was to begin with by building a frame extension to mount it on.
also, if you move the outer tie rod ends in closer to each other on each side, that would make the angle down from the steering box even worse, not better. Think about it.
One thing that can be done is, a piece of 3/8" steel plate attached to the side of the frame vertically, to extend it straight down. Then just attach the steering box lower by moving it down on that plate, back to original height from the ground, where it would be if the truck wasn't lifted. In other words, lift the frame and body, but keep the steering box where it was to begin with by building a frame extension to mount it on.
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From: GANS
TTB=Twin Traction Beam.
Building a steering box drop is IMHO a good way to have a steering box rip off when you go 4 wheeling.
I think a drop pitarm arm is probably the easiest solution, and normally what most people use without much trouble.
Check your radius arm bushing as well. If they are lose, they all aggravate the bad steering and accelorate wear.
Building a steering box drop is IMHO a good way to have a steering box rip off when you go 4 wheeling.
I think a drop pitarm arm is probably the easiest solution, and normally what most people use without much trouble.
Check your radius arm bushing as well. If they are lose, they all aggravate the bad steering and accelorate wear.
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From: GANS
TTB=Twin Traction Beam.
Building a steering box drop is IMHO a good way to have a steering box rip off when you go 4 wheeling.
I think a drop pitarm arm is probably the easiest solution, and normally what most people use without much trouble.
Check your radius arm bushing as well. If they are lose, they all aggravate the bad steering and accelorate wear.
Building a steering box drop is IMHO a good way to have a steering box rip off when you go 4 wheeling.
I think a drop pitarm arm is probably the easiest solution, and normally what most people use without much trouble.
Check your radius arm bushing as well. If they are lose, they all aggravate the bad steering and accelorate wear.
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I've worked on many over the road tractor trailers and dump trucks, and local independent salting/plow trucks.
They do it all the time. The frame hanging down just has to be thick enough and bolted/welded firmly. If you make it thicker than the original frame, how is it gonna "rip off" while 4-wheeling ??
If you rip the steering box off, you'd rip the tie rods off too with a drop pitman arm or bushing.
It doesn't have to be dropped that far, only a few inches to take the strain off the linkage. The linkage on my truck look like a capital "A", with the pitman arm connection at the top of the "A", nd the tie rod ends at each lower leg of the "A". That sure as heck isn't good either.
They do it all the time. The frame hanging down just has to be thick enough and bolted/welded firmly. If you make it thicker than the original frame, how is it gonna "rip off" while 4-wheeling ??
If you rip the steering box off, you'd rip the tie rods off too with a drop pitman arm or bushing.
It doesn't have to be dropped that far, only a few inches to take the strain off the linkage. The linkage on my truck look like a capital "A", with the pitman arm connection at the top of the "A", nd the tie rod ends at each lower leg of the "A". That sure as heck isn't good either.
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From: GANS
Well, the problem is, the frame is only about 3/16" think. You build up the steering drop, it'll act like a big lever and twist the frame rail. It would be ok if you built up the frame. But, like I said, that is why people run drop pitarms.
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How far does the pitarm kit drop it ?? That would definitely be easier, but someone posted in this thread that they didn't work too well.
If you saw what the state and locals weld/bolt to the frames, to mount those big side angled plows, you'd realize what I meant. They go down the road pushing tons of snow and a huge heavy plow gear, with all that pushing right back on the frame. 4-wheeling seems like small potatoes in comparison.
thanks for replying btw...
If you saw what the state and locals weld/bolt to the frames, to mount those big side angled plows, you'd realize what I meant. They go down the road pushing tons of snow and a huge heavy plow gear, with all that pushing right back on the frame. 4-wheeling seems like small potatoes in comparison.
thanks for replying btw...
Last edited by cantedvalveFord; Dec 7, 2003 at 08:39 AM.
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From: chino valley az
actually gemoetric physics tells you the frame is quite strong, being that a box frame. in a forward pushing condition it is at its strongest(accidents) where at a pulling on any one given side, it is only as strong as the steel it is made of. if you enclose any two or three given side(like a capital c)you would probably brake the weld before you tore the frame. i personally would not drop the box. it sounds kinda risky. the last kit i converted was on a 82 f150 4wd. all the linkage came off of a 78 dodge b250 van. it is 1.5 inchs narrower and the correct height. i have install time at 7.0 hour and welding at 1.2 for a total of 8.2. a days work. look at the dodge b series vans. as for pitman arm drop. the drop of the pitman arm is equall to the lift of the kit. they do have a tendency to break though.. the superlift kit is very similar in design and is a great improvement over the factory design... Kurt
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From: GANS
Well check this one out for an example..
http://broncograveyard.com/products/cat/20/165/33518
it says for 4-6" of lift.
I know what you are talking about. However, their frames are made out of 1/2" hard steel, and aren't really designed to flex. I bet I can bend the small lip on the frame on my f-150 with a 12" crescent wrench.
The other thing I am thinking too, is that the previous owner probably cobbled a bunch of misc. part together that don't work very well. I've never really heard of a 3" suspension lift
http://broncograveyard.com/products/cat/20/165/33518
it says for 4-6" of lift.
I know what you are talking about. However, their frames are made out of 1/2" hard steel, and aren't really designed to flex. I bet I can bend the small lip on the frame on my f-150 with a 12" crescent wrench.
The other thing I am thinking too, is that the previous owner probably cobbled a bunch of misc. part together that don't work very well. I've never really heard of a 3" suspension lift
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Does the truck have drops for the TTB to correct the camber (I think it's camber) or so your TTB runs striaght and not angled down all the time on each side so it would wear the outsides of your tires? Anyway I'd try the droped pitman arm. My friend has a 4 in. lift on his 84 Ford F-150 4X4 and he just basically lifted the springs, didn't correct anything, but appently it's so wore out it kind of corrected it's self enough so the tires don't wear and drives half decent, but he still has some bump steer. Or his dad who put a straight axle under his 85 F-150 4X4 w/ 6 in. of lift cut the tie rods in half and took 4 metal plates in a I believe a "rhombus" shape (like someone smashed a square and it bent to one side). Any way these were 6 in. tall and 10 wide and he welded them on each end of the tie rod, so the tie rod went in level and came out 6 in. higher level, he did this on the right and left side. 2 plates each w/ sloted holes to cut down on wind resistance and weight. He kept his original pitnam arm and all it cost him was time and thinking. His tie rods will never be the same, but thats the sacrafice he made.
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