Just wanted to pass along that I found a pretty cool solutions around for the SD Upfitters. Makes it really easy and a very clean install.

https://www.opentrailcreations.com/products/upfitter-no-crimp-solution

I also bought there 7th wire solution to make for a quick and easy tap into the hot wire for most likely the new dash cam going in, but haven’t installed that one yet.

 

That looks sweet. Thanks for posting!

 

Look forward to the product launch.

 

what you see on the site is already available. I met the guy who created this who is local to my town on another SD Forum.

While on this topic, also looking at the limitless autoworks harness to make all switches 12v. Anyone seen this or have experience with it?

https://limitlessautoworksllc.com/pr...44452069376189

 

Just installed , power via the cig lighter until the car stereo shop rewires it and the rear camera (which needs an extension)
Are you going for constant power when switched off so you can get parking monitoring?

 

yeah I want to have parking coverage. Installing something with LTE so I can get alerts and connect to view live. Already installed IGLA to help prevent full theft but wanted a little extra

 

easy tap into the hot wire for most likely the new dash cam

Where are you getting power? You can't get power from the switches.Are you using the pass-through wire in the passenger footwell/kick panel area?

 

here’s a video. You can email Richard, the guy who created all of these products and ask questions. He’s really responsive

 

That's funny I just stumbled on the same product today and thought it was pretty slick.

 

This is an interesting approach and well designed, but I have questions about implementation.

If I use the box with connectors as shown in the linked web site's pictures and video, I will still need to make a wire connection between the wire coming from the load and the supplied red wire pigtail attached to the connector. Am I understanding this correctly? If so, then how is this connection made? A crimped connector?

Why wouldn't I connect the load wire directly to the lever wire nut connector in the box? I see the box is sold without the connectors. What is the purpose/benefit of the additional connectors? Is there an issue with access under the hood to make these connections?

The video shows connections being made with the box out on the bench. Is this just for demonstration purposes or is it easy and practical to remove the box from the truck?

The design uses matching color coded wires for the connectorized pigtails in the box but uses red wires for the mating connector pigtails. It would be better to maintain the color coding.

Similar lever wire nut connectors I find on-line are rated for 32 amps. I wonder if the connectors used in the box are the same or have a higher rating suitable for the 40 amp rating of the 2 upfitter circuits.

I appreciate any responses.

 

It looks like he forgets to mention it in this product but in other products he shows the heat shrink/solder connectors that he provides to finish the connection to the flying leads.

You'd have to unscrew the lid to connect/disconnect this way and there isn't access to unscrew the lid when the box is installed.

It's not hard to remove the box, you could do it this way if you wanted to. It might be slightly harder if several accessory wires are going directly to the lever nuts that you can't disconnect without unhooking the rest of the box but you could plan to compensate.

What would be better about it? Your LED lights, air compressor, dash cam, etc. are going to give you 10-20ft of red wire. None of those will be color coded, especially if you're going to bypass the connectors and go directly to the lever nuts. His box-side connectors are color coded but on the accessory side it won't be and having 4 more inches of it doesn't really change anything.

That last question I'd email them about or use their chat feature, we could only speculate.

 

Pure speculation on my part but might this difference be just where to carry an operating current of 32 amps your device needs to have a current rating of 40 amps (op current X 1.25 = load rating).

 

Better because when plugging the connectors together, it would make the connection more mistake proof.
To take advantage of the connectorized system, I would think it easier to attach the pigtail to the load wire while it is out in the open area for ease of accessibility. Say I want to connect the aux lights to switch 4. I could attach the pigtail red wire to my aux light wire and plug it into the box connector with the GY/BN wire. Fairly straight forward.
However, if I'm using multiple upfitter switches for various things, I now have several red wires with connectors to plug into the box connectors. Sure, I could mark each of the red wires to identify them but if the wires were color coded to match the relay wiring, I would not have to. I would instead, attach the appropriate color coded pigtail to the load wire. Then making the final connection is more mistake proof.

The key for me is that the connection is designed to be mated and unmated and, as such, the wires on both sides should be color coded (or identified in some way to its mate). The manufacturer is already doing this for the pigtail wires terminated inside the box. Why not extend this approach throughout the design? That is where the "better" comes in. One could argue that color coding the pigtails in the box is not needed either. The wires could all be red and the marker sleeving, already on the wires, be marked with the numbers 1 thru 6. The marker sleeving with the current rating is unnecessary.

 

I guess I can see that but I think it's nit-picking. I don't see a real-world use case where you're regularly disconnecting and reconnecting several of them such that you'd get the mixed up. The reason the box side are color coded is so you keep the numeric arrangement when you're connecting to the levers. The leads are in order 1-6 and you'd need to read the possibly smudged factory label to translate what color is what number to put them in order 1-6. Color coding the box wires makes it straight forward and not dependent on the label. After that your accessory is going to some switch 1-6, the leads are in order 1-6, you don't need colors to know what is what. It's really already as mistake proof as it needs to be unless someone is in the habit of forgetting what device they have on which switch I guess.

Finally, he offers a box-only option for significantly less for people who want to engineer their own connector solution. If you really want it to be as dialed-in as you have in mind then that's what I'd suggest. Bring your own 6 wire colors and make your color-coded 1-6 wires. They don't need to match the OEM colors at that point, you won't even see the OEM wires in normal use anyway.

That's just my take on it.

 

That was my thought as well. A 40a fuse is going to pop at 40 amps. 32 is probably nominal for the circuit and I'm betting the levers are nominal rated.