I moved my heater control **** from hot to cold and pop. Now I've got no control and it's stuck in hot. Before it disengaged I couldn't get the **** all the way over to the hot side (or it was really tough getting there). I removed the radio and glovebox. on the control **** side, the white clip of the cable is no longer attached. I assume it goes to the white part on the box, right? The cable is attached to the control arm. On the opposite end, the door moves, but it's awful tight. It does go from end to end. It goes easy to difficult to easy.

- What are the symptoms of a broken blend door?
- How does the white clip on the cable clip to the control box? It looks like it should slide in black to front.

Thanks!!

 

That iss not the blend door that the hinge breaks on it is the door that directs the air flow to the defrost / floor / AC vents if you have AC.
AC has 1 cable for temp, hot / cold, the flow uses vacuum.
Non-AC trucks use 2 cables, 1 for the temp that sounds like yours broke, and the other for air flow.

What system do you have and got pictures of the part that broke?
Dave ----

 

 

With factory A/C

 

Haven't had to mess with the temperature blend door on my truck, so take the following with a grain of salt. To check for binding at the temperature blend door, remove panel #18B299 in the picture above. This is inside the cabin, above the passenger's feet. With the panel removed, you'll be looking at the heater core. The temperature blend door is left (inboard) of the heater core, and forward towards the firewall. I don't know how well you can see it, due to the viewing angle, but you should be able to snake your hand around the heater core to check for any obstructions.

The temperature blend cable sheath is attached right above this panel. Make sure it did not break or come loose.

When you have the panel off, be sure to check the hinge on the panel door, the one that directs airflow through the vents on the face of the dash. This is the infamous plastic flex hinge known to break, as detailed here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...oor-hinge.html

The first image at that link, an excerpt from the service manual, shows the location of the blend door relative to the heater core.

If unable to repair the problem right away, you could temporarily secure the door in the cold position until you have more time to dig deeper.

 

Looks like the part I'm talking about is 18552 above. The cable itself was attached, but the attachment part looks different. Pics coming in a sec

 

Careful! Read the fine print. That illustration is for trucks without factory AC. It’s different than your truck. See the illustration in post #4.

 

thanks Dave, I’m out of town and tried to talk my son through taking pictures

this one shows part of it. The loop was connected to the metal pin and it had the fastening pin on top.




It seems to me that the white clip on the cable should be attached to large white angled bit in the center left of the image. When moving the control ****, the cable clip moves left and right and gets impeded on the white bit. There no movement on the other end.



this is a better image of the clip.my guess is it’s this guy: https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-for...svdqW-GbxvKCrM



Should the clip slide into the white block?

the other side seems to be attached to a door of some sort. I can hear it flapping back and forth. It’s not smooth when I do it by hand

 

 

Apparently there were early and late control configurations. Early on the right, later on the left.

 

Early on the bottom, later on the top.

 

Thanks Franklin, are those yours? Any chance you can take a pic of the front view of this guy? I wonder if my white clip attaches in there some way.

if not, I’ll have to get a mirror in there

 

Not mine. Got them from here. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/hvac-systems.html

 

Note the link to the LMC cable is for factory non-AC system and it looks like you have AC because of the vacuum lines on the control.
I dont know where my bad AC controls are to get pictures of
Dave ----

 

Cool, I wonder if a PO used the wrong cable. Now that I'm smarter I'll know what to look for. The only thing that bothers me now is the movement on the other end. I've got instructions on how to open it up to peer inside to see what going on. I'll let you all know how it plays out this weekend!