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Assuming the roads where you live are crowned to allow for rain water runoff (they're supposed to be and most places are), then you'll end up with a very slight steering pull if you put both sides equal in castor. Not a big deal and will have absolutely no ill effects on tire wear of any kind, but its common for alignment shops to set the set the castor slightly different between sides to accommodate for road crown so they don't get angry customers bringing their cars back complaining about a steering wheel pull.
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I do alignments every day. They're my gravy in between all the crap that I get that pulls down my flat rate time. Never had someone come back complaining about the road crown. I'm also a firm believer that there should always be a slight amount of toe-in on every car, even if it's a few hundredths. That helps keep the car tracking straight a lot. Besides, it's better to have some thrust angle in there instead of caster so no weird pulls happen when braking.
Very, very few cars can have their caster changed, anyways. Honda is a pretty bad culprit of that. All you get is toe front and rear unless you swap parts.
early 2000's Ford Minivans have the same cloth and headrests. I stole them from a 98 Aerostar I think it was for my 2000 XLT. Exact match. Grab a spare set so you can install into the 3rd row. My daughters 2006 Merc Mariner has the same leather headrests as my 2005 Limited...I've been eyeing aquriring them for my 3rd row. If you've got time, walk a junkyard. 1998-2004 Ford are extremely similar. I've repurposed so many parts over the years from Expy and Crown Vics. They seem to be the most similar I've found after the Superduty itself.
sounds like you're on the hunt for some replacement trim pieces. luckily the dash for all Excursion models is the same. you can steal parts from 99-07 Superduty. the 05-07 has a slightly different dash that doesn't work. Their lower dash drops in though. Other trim pieces are mostly the same. The 05+ cupholder is nicer. You can swap the faceplate so it matches your current dash, but you retain the deeper 05+ pockets.
I highly recommend grabbing the driver pillar grab handle from a 03+ X or Superduty. your pillar already has the location marked on the pinch weld. Drill 2 holes, pop the trim on, bolt on the handle. very easy install.
So Ford headrests are pretty universal. Good to know.
As far as trim goes, I just need a glove box.
The slide-out cupholders I got off of Amazon fit the bill just nicely for me. Like I said, since I put in that little console extension I haven't even used them.
I would do these shims long before I did balljoints. That is insane to me. 10 bolts vs tearing the whole damn axle apart.
If the ball joints and axle seals need to be done anyways what's the difference? You have to take the sleeve out anyways to remove the knuckle. Plus, having done sleeves several times, they're cake if I were to just do those. They're fine for the time-being, there's almost no play in them cranking on it with a pry bar. Just something to do in the future maybe a year from now.
I do alignments every day. They're my gravy in between all the crap that I get that pulls down my flat rate time. Never had someone come back complaining about the road crown. I'm also a firm believer that there should always be a slight amount of toe-in on every car, even if it's a few hundredths. That helps keep the car tracking straight a lot. Besides, it's better to have some thrust angle in there instead of caster so no weird pulls happen when braking.
Very, very few cars can have their caster changed, anyways. Honda is a pretty bad culprit of that. All you get is toe front and rear unless you swap parts.
They wouldn't be complaining about road crown, they would be complaining about a steering wheel pull. And every car is adjustable for caster, often times (like 4x4 Excursions for example) it requires the changing out of hard parts (ball joint sleeves in the case of the 4x4 Excursion), but they are all adjustable. It may take time and be a pain in the rear, and if you live off flat rate time then you'll make every excuse to not do it and even say it can't be done, but that's a lie, they are all adjustable, just not easily adjustable like toe.
Flat rate has killed the auto mechanic trade. For those that don't know flat rate , or book time, is how most auto mechanics get paid now. The basic concept is if the book says it takes 1 hour to do a job, then the mechanic gets one hours worth of his hourly rate pay for doing that job. Now if he rushes through the job, does half-azz work, uses an impact gun on everything, but gets the job done in 30 minutes, guess what,,, he just got paid for an hour of work in 30 minutes. So if you can rush through and half-azz 12 hours worth of book time work in 4 hours, guess what, you can triple your normal hourly rate in pay.
Flat rate gives the mechanic a personal financial incentive to rush through everything, and when you rush, stuff gets missed and work quality evidentially falls off. So yeah, if a shop has a flat rate of 1 hour to do an alignment, not a single person in there is going to spend three hours changing out hard parts to do the alignment the right way when they're only getting one hours worth of book time pay for it.
Moral of the story, buy the DIY equipment to do your own alignments at home people. You'll get better results and after two alignments you'll be saving money. And its freaking quicker too, I can align my junk at the house in less time than it takes me to drive ta a shop and sit in their waiting room waiting for them to set toe (and lie to me that caster can't be adjusted when I ask about it).
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