Pop&Lock tailgate wiring question
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Senior User
Joined: May 2003
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From: Whittier, CA
Pop&Lock tailgate wiring question
I'm trying to install a Pop&Lock power tailgate lock in my '02 XLT, and have run into some difficulties at step 3. I've located what the instructions claim are the appropriate wires at the passenger's side kickpanel--pink/black and pink/orange--and I've hooked up the squeeze connectors to test the operation, but the actuator only actuates with the unlock pulse; the lock pulse does nothing. If I reverse the wiring the actuator actuates in the opposite direction with the unlock pulse, so I don't believe that either it or my connections are bad. The problem seems to be with the lock pulse, even though the door locks just fine.
Last edited by soksniffer; Dec 5, 2003 at 06:54 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: South Jersey
They are the correct wires for the power lock accuator, have you tried putting a meter on the wires and see if you get power with lock & unlock. The pk/bk should be positive in the lock circuit.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2003
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From: Whittier, CA
I don't have a multi-meter. 
Maybe that should go on my Christmas list. Here's what I've done without one:
I confirmed that the pop&lock actuator really works by touching its terminals directly to my battery terminals. It opens and closes just as it should.
I know there's power going to the door lock actuator via the wires as the door locks and unlocks as it should, so I pulled off the door panel to make sure I don't have some freaky variant Ranger that uses different color-coded wires for the door actuator. As predicted, they are indeed pink/black and pink/orange.
After replacing the panel I discovered something bizarre: turning on the ignition sends the equivalent of a constant "lock" pulse to the Pop&Lock actuator. What the?!? I was puzzled before, but now I'm completely mystified. If I'd known about that constant lock signal when I'd pulled the door panel I'd have tried hooking up the pop&lock right at the switch to see if it did the same thing. I may pull it off again tomorrow and try that.
Anyone have any thoughts as to what might be going on?
Maybe that should go on my Christmas list. Here's what I've done without one:I confirmed that the pop&lock actuator really works by touching its terminals directly to my battery terminals. It opens and closes just as it should.
I know there's power going to the door lock actuator via the wires as the door locks and unlocks as it should, so I pulled off the door panel to make sure I don't have some freaky variant Ranger that uses different color-coded wires for the door actuator. As predicted, they are indeed pink/black and pink/orange.
After replacing the panel I discovered something bizarre: turning on the ignition sends the equivalent of a constant "lock" pulse to the Pop&Lock actuator. What the?!? I was puzzled before, but now I'm completely mystified. If I'd known about that constant lock signal when I'd pulled the door panel I'd have tried hooking up the pop&lock right at the switch to see if it did the same thing. I may pull it off again tomorrow and try that.
Anyone have any thoughts as to what might be going on?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2003
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From: Whittier, CA
Problem solved!
So I decided to take one last look this evening before buttoning everything up for the night and discovered that there are two seperate pink/black wires. I tried splicing into the other one, and everything works now as it should.
It raises a bigger question, though: why would Ford assign two wires with different functions in the same harness the same color coding? Or maybe one is pink/black and the other is black/pink....
It raises a bigger question, though: why would Ford assign two wires with different functions in the same harness the same color coding? Or maybe one is pink/black and the other is black/pink....
