So, have dealt with this before.
The air filter restriction monitor just does not work on these trucks.
And, considering this, the issue I had is my fault for not being more proactive.

Last night as I was on my way home, about 400 miles to go, truck popped the SES light on...PEACHY.
Truck seemed to still be running okay, although I was hearing some popping noise that sounded like it was coming from the exhaust.
I stopped real quick and looked the truck over, but didn't feel like digging out the scan tool and figured there was nothing I could do in the middle of the night on the side of the road, so jumped back in and kept going on to the house.
Got up this a.m. and dug the scan tool out and plugged it in and got 1 permanent code and 3 saved code, 2 of which were the same as the permanent on, P0172, the other code was P2074, cleared the saved codes.
I had dealt with the P2074 code before, and the fix for that was the first thing I checked and was for sure the issue that caused both the P0172 a code indicating an extremely rich condition and the P2074 which is MAP/MAF related.

The issue was a completely clogged up air filter, more specifically on mine, the pre-filter that I have over my K&N filter to keep the trash out of the filter pleats.
It was caked over with dirt, no light coming through at all, and subsequently very little air getting through.
Pulled the pre-filter off, washed it out and dried it, put it back on and reinstalled the filter, buttoned it all back up, and the permanent code disappeared and all was well again.

So, these codes have become the air filter restriction monitor, except they do not pop up until the filter is completely plugged up.

I just have to be much more diligent in doing my air filter maintenance.
I thought I had checked it at my last oil change, and if I did, then I must have gotten into some really dirty air lately.

It is time for the next oil change too...

 

Was the little spring-loaded indicator on the intake tube sucked down at all?

I need to change my filter as well. I look at it at oil change intervals and it has always looked ok other than large debris like bugs that I suck out with a shop vac. It's been a few years now and seems like I'm losing 1/2-1mpg compared to in the past.

 

2020+ trucks do not have the physical air restriction gauge, it is all electronic, done by the computer with just a dash message.

 

$30 for a Wix brand restriction gauge with a grommet. The only other tools needed are a drill and a step bit.

https://a.co/d/3fbrg65

 

Ah, went the way of the transmission dipstick.

 

I have never seen the restriction gauge on my 2019 move. Ever. And I drive dusty gravel roads daily.

But, I've never had a truck with a gauge before so I don't care. I change the filter on a slightly aggressive interval and roll on with it.

 

My gauge seems to work fine since new (2017).........a golden rule is NOT to have the slightest air leak otherwise the gauge will not sense vacuum restriction and won't be drawn in upon restriction. I will assume the electronic version is the same as far as sensitivity goes.

 

They work well, but if you don't use them that doesn't matter. Airfilters like OCI's and other maintenance is highly personal.

I check it and press the button on my indicator evertime I open the hood, but only lay hands and eyeballs on the element when it is 40-50% restricted and tap it out then. I only replace when I have to tap it out between oil changes.

I only use dry elements, oiled ones are way to much work for my tastes.

 

I totally agree 👍

 

That will be the one thing I miss about my old Ram - I had not just a transmission dipstick, but a LOCKING one. May well be the last one I ever see.

 

I used to use oiled ones, when I had time to clean them properly. In today's world...well one they just don't add any performance value that is noticeable, and they're extra work for no return. With 500hp and 1200 ft-lbs of torque, a high quality OEM replacement is good enough.

 

But, my one time cost for the K&N of about $70, and I will never have to buy another new air filter.
And, the addition of the $20 pre-filter, that simply rinses out, will mean that I will not have to clean and re-oil the K&N for years, which most people do too often anyway, and use too much oil when they do.
I have been running this combo for over 100K miles so far, and have only had to rinse out the pre-filter.
And, the inside of my air intake tract is still clean as a whistle.
I just need to be more diligent about rinsing out the pre-filter, as stated in my above comments.

 

Oh I wasn't trying to fault you, because you're right, properly cared for a K&N will last forever, and properly oiled won't cause issues. I used to run them, I used the aerosol oil (I still have a can of it, actually) to re-oil them because it was a more even application and easier to control just how much oil was on the filter - I never had a MAF issue due to over-oiling.

I'm just saying that personally, I don't have a need for one, nor do I have the time to properly re-oil one every so often. Most people buy them for performance gains, and with the amount of power these engines put out, any gain you would see in that respect is negligible.

 

My 21' 6.7 has a restriction gauge. I think just the 20 and 21. 22 they got rid of them.
when installing the air filter, put a light coating of grease on the sealing surface of the air filter. If the seal is not 100%, this helps keep dust out. I do it on every engine I own including my 25 year old 431k mile daily driver. Si drops doing this according to used oil analysis.
Motorcraft fuel and air filters for diesels, Wix racing with the pleate oil and felt pad on the Tacoma, Wix on the car, oem on everything else. I dont care about bogus .00004% performance increases. I care about getting as much dirt and dust out of the incoming air...that's it.

 

Yeah, ZERO performance gain, gain is in never having to buy another new air filter.
And, like I said, for my setup with the pre-filter, I will not have to wash and re-oil the K&N for a very long time, so the time spent doing that is negligible.
And, actually, that same pre-filter could be used on a standard air filter, probably make it last for a very long time as well.