I posted a while back about having a hard start when warm. Seemed to be like a hear soak issue as if the fuel was boiling out of the carb. I installed a 1" phenolic spacer that I bought on ebay about a month ago and it seems to have solved my issue. Now I don't feel embarrassed while trying to start my truck after 20 minutes in a store.
Hopefully this will help someone else out having the same issue.

 

I assume you replaced the EGR spacer with it, if you didn't plug the hole for the exhaust in the intake it's a good idea to do that.

 

+1 on the phenolic spacer being a good choice. The machine shop put an aluminum spacer on my engine and the heat soak was horrendous even though my engine stays quite cool. I could barely touch that spacer after even a brief run. I got the “power cone” 1” spacer from here:

https://jomarperformance.com/collect...uretor-spacers

Good quality product and American made.

 

Njdevil thanks for the info and VP thanks for the link.

 

IF .... you use the phenolic spacer on a OEM intake which has provisions for EGR, you need to block those "hot holes". In the past, I've used a carburetor base gasket to mark a piece of thin stainless steel to cut to make a shield. I've also made a couple spacers of a dense wood, like oak veneer plywood. Laugh, but it works.

I must say my near inch of solid aluminum (only used it to provide a balanced PVC valve vac supply point, never had a heat issue ... but it worked for over 30 years off the #1 intake runner fitting) hasn't hurt a bit, but the Edelbrock Performer 400 intake has the carb base up higher (than OEM does) away from the base of the intake manifold and has no EGR ports in it (but still has heat crossover for carb to get warm in winter) and is itself aluminum, with thinner lower mass walls around the plenum than the stock cast iron intake. I think the upside down air cleaner top also aids in limiting evaporation of fuel as I did once have issues after it was parked for even just a few days, it often acted like was near no fuel in the carburetor, but not since my making that air cleaner.

My intake "stack" is ... intake ... under gasket 1 ... under spacer ... under gasket 2 ... under 1/8" aluminum plate ... under gasket 3 ... under carburetor base. That chunk of near inch solid aluminum spacer is itself very rigid, so is little danger of carburetor mount ear breaking. All three gaskets are greased. Carb studs are 2-3/4", maybe nearer to 3", threaded rod, "locktited" into intake manifold holes. Nuts are double nutted to stay mildly tight in use. Bracket for the FPR also uses two of the carburetor mount studs.

 

Is there a phenolic carb spacer available for a 2 barrel FE engine which has a vacuum port for the PCV valve?

 

When I had a '73 Mustang Grande with 302-2 bbl, I couldn't find one when I looked, was gonna make one, but sold it first.

 

Would this one work? https://carburetedinnovations.com/pr...45501951869228

 

Normally phenolic spacers don't have a vacuum port. but you don't need one, either go into the carb base or go directly into the intake.

 

I seen all the responses and should have noted it's on a 351m with a Weiand 4bbl intake. No egr non emissions engine. The only thing I had to adjust was my throttle linkage. It was hitting the bad of the intake manifold preventing it the carb from completely closing.

 

Tbear, does your wife know you have her skillet?

I've found the best solution to vapor lock is a 15psi electric pump with a return style regulator and line back to tank.

Has anyone used a Wilson style tapered spacer on a dual plane manifold?

 

I wanted something unique and something that protected the paper air cleaner from rain or snow when opening the hood. Looked at frying pans, but they were always too small for a 14" element (but a 12" or 10" element would have worked in one). This roaster has a flat "floor" that is just over 14" before the sides arc upwards.

Was back in 2021 or 22 walking through an antique shop opened up in an old garage in Floyd and that big roaster with lid was sitting on top of an old piano. I saw it through an opened rollup door as we climbed out of the back seat of the Dodge Caravan we rode in, I went straight to it and grabbed it, they wanted $60, they came down to $45, my wife knew what it was for but her sister in law saw it when we gathered to go to the house afterwards and she had a duck fit, she wanted it, and then she was incredulous when I told her what it was for. She had visions of making apple butter. I explained to her it was in a room which she never went in (as she was focused on old glass ware in the other room), her husband, my brother in law, thanked me.

I trimmed the sides down two inches as it was much deeper, and I cut the lid to a smaller circle (peg in a board clamped to the table of my bandsaw for a round cut) just to get a better fit on the upside down base, drilled a 9/32" center hole in both pieces too. It swallows up a 3" x 14" air filter and is open on the outer bottom for a good 1-1/2" all the way around. The black bakelite two-piece top **** has a steel threaded t nut J B Welded into it, looks better there than the wing nut that is hidden under the "what was a roaster lid".

The base is the same stamped steel base that was under the open element old air filter bought in the '80s at a Roses or maybe Advance Auto, etc .... I just reused it.

 

It's always good when you can repurpose somthing.

 

I drilled and tapped mine for a PCV fitting. Pretty easy to do.